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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / August 200596 5.8L oil pan gasket
The rear oil pan bolts on my 96 F350 4x4 were found to be missing and/or loose. I found new bolts and tightened everything up, but the leak is still there, so no surprise. The thread about the Ranger reminded me. Is this gasket one piece cork, rubber, or what? I'm trying to spend the least amount of time replacing it since the truck is our prime mover. I'm sure it's a big job, but the exact composition of the gasket might make things easier and faster. > The rear oil pan bolts on my 96 F350 4x4 were found to be missing and/or >loose. I found new bolts and tightened everything up, but the leak is still [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >it's a big job, but the exact composition of the gasket might make things >easier and faster. The gasket is "rubber". The best replacement is a one piece job with metal reinforced side made by Felpro. It's a bitch to replace at the best. The engine can be lifted high enough to remove the pan by removing the upper intake manifild and useing a cherry picker from above. The next problem is the exhaust crossover which goes under the back of the pan. The easiest way to deal with it is to have the muffler shop make a sleeve big enough to slip over the crossover and cut the crossover as far to the right as possible. You can either have the shop weld it back together when you are done or, dp it yourself if you have a wire welder and skills. The only other way to get the pipe out of your way is to support the transmission and remove the crossmember to allow the exhaust to drop enough. I have heard that some people have small enough hands and lots of patience to work a gasket in w/o dropping the pan enough to require the exhaust work. I don't believe that is possible with the metal reinforced gasket. You may be stuck with the older style gasket if you choose to do it that way. BTW, if you are carefull and skilled enough, you can probably forego the sleeve for the crossover and just buttweld it. before you final tighten the flanges. Good luck Lugnut | > The rear oil pan bolts on my 96 F350 4x4 were found to be missing and/or | >loose. I found new bolts and tightened everything up, but the leak is still [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] | to replace at the best. >>SNIP<< Oh, mother! So, I wonder what it takes to drop the crossmember from that truck? Is it permanent or is it held together with removable bolts? I don't have it right now so I can't get a look at it again, otherwise I'd be more informed. As it is I can only drop the pan about two inches before it sits on the crossmember. I really don't want to be cutting anything, even the exhaust, so lifting the engine is sounding more promising. I'm not so hot a welder and it's going to have to be done in my driveway. Thanks! >| > The rear oil pan bolts on my 96 F350 4x4 were found to be missing >and/or [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > >Thanks! The crossmember is the trans mount. It is bolted in. The trick if you decide to remove the trans mount is that you have to suspend and support both the engine and trans. Removing the crossmember allows the welded exhaust system to drop enough to work the pan out. The oil pump is mounted at the front of the engine and has it's pickup in the sump at the rear. (The SBC design is much more friendly to do this job even if an inferior piece in the first place) That is why the pan pretty much has to drop completely out to install the one piece gasket. I went thru this last year on mine after the gasker failed. The replacement one piece is the way to go if you want to stop the leak. I had originally though the rear seal was leaking in mine but after I pulled the trans for that job, I found the rear seal to be bone dry. The original gaskets are not metal reinforced and tend to work their way out after a while. Ford did not learn a lesson from GM before using this material. The Felpro metal reinforced gasket will not work it's way out. It ain't cheap. If you don't think you'll have the truck much longer, you may want to try to find one of the non-reinfirced OEM type gaskets or even a cork set.. With that you may be able to work the individual pieces in w/o completely dropping the pan after you remove the upper intake and lift the engine. Word of caution on the upper intake. It has a torx bolt in the middle. It is a t-40 IIRC. When you reinstall the upper intake, be careful not to get the plastic lines at the rear in the joint or you will have to go at it again to repair them. (learned hard way while in hurry) Lugnut |
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