It seems like the entire vehicle just starts
> resonating at this speed and it increases as I accelerate from 55 to
> 65mph.
> Above 70mph the problem seems to taper off.
It really sounds like your front tire is out of balance. Bring it to another
tire shop. Balancing a tire correctly isn't as simple as one would guess.
Warren Weber - 09 Oct 2005 03:00 GMT
> It seems like the entire vehicle just starts
>> resonating at this speed and it increases as I accelerate from 55 to
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> another tire shop. Balancing a tire correctly isn't as simple as one would
> guess.
Also have the tires checked for OUT OF ROUND. I had this problem on a
vehicle and this was the cause. Balancing did nothing for the out of round
and dealer replaced tires (2) WW
have them check the radius arm bushings, and sway bar bushings if the tire
rebalancing does not fix it.
> Hiya
>
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
> thanks
> Jay
You could easily be describing a bad u-joint in the driveshaft. It can
act just like you describe and the sound/vibration is really sneaky
about 'seeming' to come from one area or another.
To check them, you need to block the wheels and put it in neutral so you
unload the drivetrain, if it's in gear or park it cannot be tested, then
go under and look for any slop or rust stains around the u-joint caps.
Only 'no' play is acceptable and if you see rust stains, that usually
means the needle bearings are dead or very soon about to be dead.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Hiya
>
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
> thanks
> Jay
Ford Warrior - 10 Oct 2005 02:59 GMT
Mike,
Thanks again for your help.. I remember you posting some tips a week ago on
an overheating problem I was having with the same vehicle that helped me
out. I have no experience working with the drivetrain, but I have Haynes,
Chilton, & Ford Factory service manuals for the van and will definitely
start digging around this week. Regarding the rust.. this vehicle
originally came from Florida.. and 75% of the chassis underneath is covered
with rust.. including splotches all along the driveline.. so what you are
recommending may be the route I need to go. I was originally thinking it
must be the aggressive tread on these new tires but now I'm not so sure.
If you have any further tips or items to check out while I'm under the van
just let me know.. all the help is appreciated.
Over and out
Jay
> You could easily be describing a bad u-joint in the driveshaft. It can
> act just like you describe and the sound/vibration is really sneaky
[quoted text clipped - 44 lines]
>> thanks
>> Jay
>Hiya
>
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>thanks
>Jay
IIRC, you have a 2 piece drive shaft in that one. If so,
check the center support and bearing very closely.
Sometimes the rubber deteriorates and lets it more or less
float free causing a vibration.
Lugnut
bradtx - 11 Oct 2005 15:39 GMT
Because brake application seems to lesson the vibration, check out your
wheel bearings.
bradtx
> Hiya
>
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
> thanks
> Jay
Hello Jay,
To start, have your tires checked for balance, spin balance not "bubble"
balance. At the same time have them checked for "out of round" and "true"
(side to side). Check for bubbles in the tread area (tread separation) and
broken steel belts (twisted tread), also watch for deformations in the
sidewalls (broken body cords). Some of these conditions are a blowout
waiting to happen. Also, check to see if your wheels are bent, cracked or
have broken welds or rivets.
Have your wheel bearings checked, make sure they are lubed and adjusted
properly. Rear wheel bearings are lubed by the gear oil in the rearend,
make sure it is full. On drum brakes, make sure that there no loose or
broken parts floating around side the drum. If there are, they will be
trying to lockup your wheels (this can sometimes feel like a vibration,
however this usually makes a grinding sound).
As noted in other posts, check your u-joints, center support bearing and
slip-joints. Make sure all are tight, with no powdered rust coming out of
them. Make sure there is no play in them, rotationally, side-to-side, up
and down or front-to-back. Replace and lube parts as needed.
Also, the driveshaft may be out of balance, or it may have been
reassembled wrong at some time in the past, this will most likely have
happened at the slip-joint at the center support, all u-joints "MUST"
line up. Or, you might have a bent drive shaft, not to likely, but I have
seen it.
Be sure to block your wheels, or support the vehicle on jack stands,
before placing transmission in neutral. (I like jack stands, gives me more
room to work.)
Any of the above problems can give you the problems you are describing.
Oh, two more I was forgetting about, a vibration dampner that has
"shifted" and a cracked flex plate. The only one of these problems that
stepping on the brakes will have no direct effect on is the dampner, as
there is no change in the loading on that part, only the engine speed.
If you get no vibration while sitting still, in neutral, while changing
engine speed, then it is probably not the dampner. A cracked flex plate
vibration will normally only show up while under load, unless it is very
severe.
Some of these problems will very hard to spot in the shop, unless one is
very through and willing to take the time. Some of these are easier to
spot during a road test, with a "chase car" to look for problems.
Yes, I have seen or experienced all of these problems. Once I had a tread
seperation on a right front tire, mimic a sever vibration in the left
front, before coming apart and beating the hell out of the right front
fender and ripping out the inner fender liner.
I once saw some retread tires that were so out of round, that the only
thing that allowed the owner to drive his truck in to the shop was the
trucks soft "worn out" suspension.
Yours,
BigDave
Ford Warrior - 12 Oct 2005 04:46 GMT
>> Hiya
>>
[quoted text clipped - 90 lines]
> Yours,
> BigDave
Big Dave & others.. thanks a ton for the responses and suggestions... I just
replaced the U-joints myself today but am still having the problem.. so I'm
back to the drawing board as they say. There is no center support bearing
on this driveshaft as it is a one piece type. There is a large amount of
corrosion/rust spotting the entire surface of the driveshaft and I was
thinking I may need to have a professional check out the balance. Also
since checking this further it seems to me the vibration/rumble is
increased greatly when I really give it the gas and reduced when I let off.
ie if i'm just coasting along without much acceleration, the vibration is
lessened. The peak of the vibration/rumble seems to be centered around
65mph. I can feel it most right through the driver's seat and also In the
steering wheel.. but of course it really is penetrating the entire vehicle
i guess. I did notice when I let someone else drive that it is felt much
less on the passenger side. The mechanic claims the tires are good and has
balanced them twice since first installing them new a couple weeks ago.
I've noticed some references in other group postings so something called a
harmonic balancer. Any idea if such a thing exists on this E250? How do
most shops check driveshaft balance?
thanks
Jay
Rowbotth - 12 Oct 2005 21:51 GMT
> >> Hiya
> >>
[quoted text clipped - 112 lines]
> thanks
> Jay
I know of 4 instances where the drivers had the same problem and the
same report on tires. After they got the tires changed, the problem
went away. Did you buy the tires? How amenable does the dealer seem to
be? Will he consider perhaps changing out tires in the name of customer
good will?
Maybe, if the spare is a full-size one, you might replace the one that
sounds funny with the spare for a month or a week - and if this is not
the one, do the same for all - replace each by the spare for a week or
two and see what happens. (?)
H.
> Hiya
>
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
> thanks
> Jay
Another update: As I said before I put in new U-joints with no improvement
and the driveshaft is the one piece type. I have pulled the driveshaft out
again and now that I look more closely I'm noticing further issues. The
rubber transmission extension output seal where the driveshaft yoke meets
the transmission output has some small tears and is leaking slightly. Also
there is a fairly large amount of play in all directions from the
transmission output shaft spindle. ie If I put the vehicle in neutral I
can wobble it by hand. Is this normal? I'm thinking perhaps I need to
replace the bearings in the output shaft of the transmission. Would this
require complete transmission tear-down? Any thoughts as to whether this
could be the culprit of the vibrations?
thanks again
Jay
Nate Nagel - 13 Oct 2005 00:29 GMT
>>Hiya
>>
[quoted text clipped - 45 lines]
> thanks again
> Jay
If it is similar to vehicles that I have worked on, the output shaft
bushings actually support the slip yoke of the driveshaft, so not
necessarily. Are you checking this with the driveshaft installed or
removed?
Are your rear springs sagging/do you usually drive the van heavily
loaded? you may have a pinion angle issue
the knocking/wobbling sounds from the front end sound like a loose
caliper and/or some anti-rattle hardware was left out at the last brake
job, might want to take a look at that corner
good luck,
nate

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Spdloader - 13 Oct 2005 02:36 GMT
The noise in the front could also the front anti-sway bar vibrating, they
are known to get loose in, and even come out of, the bushings.
Spdloader
>>>Hiya
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 65 lines]
>
> nate
mrpresident0002@yahoo.com - 13 Oct 2005 19:42 GMT
The vibrations you described sound exactly what I had on my car, they
even happened at similar highway speeds of 65-75 mph. Above that the
vibration sort of became less pronounced. I should say that my tires
were pretty worn out at that stage.
Perhaps your car's body has some resonance frequencies that are
amplified in that speed range.
Once I got a new set of front tires (properly balanced), the vibration
disappeared.
While you probably think that the problem is not with the tires, at
least swap the front and rear ones and see if the problem persists.
This would rule out the possibility of something being really screwy
with the front tires.
Mike