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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / October 2005Transmission extension housing removal?
Hiya In an attempt to correct some deep vibration I get when driving 55-65mph, I'm going to be replacing the extension housing seal and bushing on my 1995 Ford E250 4.9L L6. I've already replaced the u-joints. The seal has some tears and leaks a bit and there is a lot of play on the output shaft of the transmission. The transmission itself is the 3-speed C6. In the Ford factory manual they describe the process of replacing the bushing as not requiring removal of the entire extension housing because they tell you to use this special bushing removal tool that actually allows you to insert it from the driveshaft end of the housing and then 'pull' the bushing out using the tool's fingers... the problem is I can't find this tool at any of the auto parts shops around town and have only been able to find a set of bushing drivers that allow you to tap out the old bushing. This requires complete removal of the extension housing, but this process is not described in any of the 3 manuals I have. Will I have to remove the entire transmission? If not, will I still have to drain out the transmission fluid? Is there anything difficult about removing the extension housing? basically just give me the inside scoop on this. I figure it's probably an easy task, but I wanted to get some advice from the pros here before I end up screwing something up major. Or Is there any chance I could find a special tool like the one described in the Ford manual at a hardware store or Home Depot? What could I look for? take care Jay Should unbolt easily & come right off, if I remember correctly. The only hitch may be if the trans mount is on the tailshaft extension, in which case you'll just have to support the trans during your repair. It's best to use a press to install the new one. Test fit it over the driveshaft before you bolt it back together. Good luck. R&R on the housing should be straight forward ( easy ) Jack up the trans , block it up , pull the rear mount( maybe cross member too ) , pull the speedo cable and anything else that's plugged into it ,put a drain pan under it , take it off . Before you do that though , you might want to take a really good look at the drive shaft for a slight bend and or missing balance weight . If this just "happened all of a sudden " vs " over time " think back to any incidents . Give the rear end yoke a couple of good yanks too . Any play in that can give you fits and doesn't "always" make the rear end scream . Haven't seen very many bushings go south and if it has,something is making that happen . Will > Hiya > [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > take care > Jay Nope, you wont find that tool at a Home Depot. I think the ones I have seen look like a little "L", that attach to a slide hammer (dent remover), etc. They are thin enough you can slip them past the seal and then tap the seal out. Similar with bushing. You can probably order one that will work. SnapOn must have one, and even JC Whitney might have a cheap unit. If I remember correctly, you can get the seal out and replaced with pretty low level tools alone. Are you sure you need to replace the bushing? R&R on the housing should be straight forward ( easy ) Jack up the trans , block it up , pull the rear mount( maybe cross member too ) , pull the speedo cable and anything else that's plugged into it ,put a drain pan under it , take it off . Before you do that though , you might want to take a really good look at the drive shaft for a slight bend and or missing balance weight . If this just "happened all of a sudden " vs " over time " think back to any incidents . Give the rear end yoke a couple of good yanks too . Any play in that can give you fits and doesn't "always" make the rear end scream . Haven't seen very many bushings go south and if it has,something is making that happen . Will > Hiya > [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > take care > Jay That tool is for sure part of the special tools for Ford dealers, most trans shops have something similar, to buy a set for one job is too expensive, usually removing the ext housing is not a big deal, but you might want to check with some one who's done this on a Ford. > Hiya > [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > take care > Jay > Hiya > [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > take care > Jay Not exactly the answer u asked, but have u tried Auto Zone and Advance A/Parts to see if they have that tool in their tool-loaner program? Just a thought & hth, s >Hiya > [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] >take care >Jay If you are talking about tears in the seal boot, that is not a big problem. Replacement seals do not have a boot like the original. For a one time bushing job, I would simply unbolt the rear mount, jack it up, remove the rear mount and remove the housing. Loss of fluid won't be much and you will be able drive out the old seal and bushing easily. The bushing can be reseated with a universal seal and bushing driver. Be sure to check the yoke for wear also. If you are getting driveline vibration for sure, you need to check the center support carefully. Also, if the U-joints were assembled too tight, that can cause a vibration if the vibration started after they were replaced. The pinion is also a source of vibration if the bearings are failing. Over the years, I have started to just have a local drive line shop do U-joints since they need to be rebalance about half the time after joint replacement. They replaced the center support bearing and all the U-joints along with a rebalance in my F150 shaft a few months ago for less than a hundred bucks with me laying the shaft on the counter. Lugnut > Hiya > > In an attempt to correct some deep vibration I get when driving 55-65mph, Before you tear into it, check the driveshaft alignment. A misalignment of more than a few degrees will cause a resonance at a certain speed. Basically the yoke and the shaft going into the rear differential must be perfectly parallel. Ted >> Hiya >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Ted If there were a misalignment between the differential and the yolk end, How would I correct this? I'm assuming in this case, driveshaft balancing or even buying a new driveshaft wouldn't fix the problem, right? thanks Jay |
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