2001 f150 odometer delay in turning on display

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Rocky - 24 Nov 2005 04:18 GMT

sometimes lately when I start my 2001 f150 XL, the odometer is blank while I
am warming the truck up, but the display for the odometer always lights up
within a minute - the dealer says I need a $281 cluster unit that will be
programmed to my mileage from their vendor. I have a 2001 F150 XLT cluster,
but a dealer said I can't have it installed in an XL. is this true? is
there I place where I can send it out, and have the mileage set a little
ahead of mine, and then I can find a dealer to install it?
Rocky

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Rocky - 24 Nov 2005 04:20 GMT

I forgot to add I only have 76k miles on the truck.

> sometimes lately when I start my 2001 f150 XL, the odometer is blank while
> I am warming the truck up, but the display for the odometer always lights
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> a little ahead of mine, and then I can find a dealer to install it?
> Rocky

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Lawrence - 24 Nov 2005 05:29 GMT

Is the display blank only when you start the truck or does it blink in and out
occassionally while the truck is running? I just disassembled my dash on my 99
F150 XLT so I could resolder the circuit board where the connector joins on.
Common problem on many F150's from that time frame. Mine actually had 3 of the
solder joints that were fractured. Total time to disassemble, fix and reassemble
was about 30 minutes. If yours is only blank when you start up though it may not
be the same problem.

Cheers,
Lawrence

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Rocky - 25 Nov 2005 12:39 GMT

only when I start up. I never saw it blank out while I was driving. Does
removing the cluster trigger the PATS? or as long as I reinstall the
cluster before starting, I will be ok?

> Is the display blank only when you start the truck or does it blink in and
> out
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> Cheers,
> Lawrence

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bradtx - 25 Nov 2005 14:56 GMT

Rocky, Possibly unrelated, but check your fuses. I had a similar
problem with my '00 Mustang GT. All gauges non operating for a few
seconds after start up. Fuse that repaired the problem is labeled for
an option the car doesn't have.

bradtx

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Lawrence - 26 Nov 2005 03:47 GMT

You probably don't have the same problem as me then. Removing the cluster won't
affect the PATS. At least as far as I know it doesn't.

Cheers,
Lawrence

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Rocky - 27 Nov 2005 02:54 GMT

today was the first time the odmeter wouldn't display until I slapped the
top of the dash over the cluster. Sounds like bad solder - I think Ford
should have a warrany on this - how can they allow an odemeter not to
display on a 2001? Any suugestions on where can I check to see if an XLT
cluster will work in an XL?
Rocky

> You probably don't have the same problem as me then. Removing the cluster
> won't
> affect the PATS. At least as far as I know it doesn't.
>
> Cheers,
> Lawrence

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The OTHER Kevin in San Diego - 27 Nov 2005 06:34 GMT

>today was the first time the odmeter wouldn't display until I slapped the
>top of the dash over the cluster. Sounds like bad solder - I think Ford
>should have a warrany on this - how can they allow an odemeter not to
>display on a 2001? Any suugestions on where can I check to see if an XLT
>cluster will work in an XL?
>Rocky

If it's bad solder, why not pull the cluster and check it out. bad
solder joint will be dull in appearance. Good one will be very shiny.
You can 'fix" the bad ones by hitting them with a soldering iron and
let it remelt.

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Lawrence - 27 Nov 2005 22:57 GMT

Well, now it definitely sounds like you have some fractured solder joints. I
can't see any problem subbing the XLT cluster for the XL one but it would be
easier just to resolder the few joints. Not only will the bad ones look dull,
you will see an actual crack around in the joint. A 3 second touch per solder
joint with a soldering iron will cure everything. Much easier than
contemplating a cluster swap which could possibly end up in a cluster f.... if
you know what I mean ;-)
I'm and electronics tech specializing in flight simulators myself and I do the
odd job for freinds on the side and it seems lately that I have been making
most of my repair moeny off bad solder joints. 4 stereo amps, 3 vcrs, two
computers, and six tv sets in the past week alone. Is the industry standard for
lapflowing solder getting that bad?

Cheers,
Lawrence

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David M - 28 Nov 2005 10:06 GMT

> Well, now it definitely sounds like you have some fractured solder joints. I
> can't see any problem subbing the XLT cluster for the XL one but it would be
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> Cheers,
> Lawrence

Lead-free (if it's new equipment). Do a search for RoHS.

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