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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / December 2005Heater Core Question
I think I just figured something out. In a previous thread I've described how I'm getting no heat from my heater. When this truck was in the shop, they told me the coolant looked like it had never been changed since 1994. It looked like crap. I thought so too. (Just bought the truck used 2 months ago.) It was leaking and I couldn't even identify what was leaking. It was nasty coolant that ran like near sludge or oil. My thought is, I know nothing about heater cores. Does the coolant run through the core? If so, isn't it possible that crap clogged up the core? Just a thought. I've heard someone mentioned clogged cores before. I've bought a new one an will be installing it this evening if I can along with a new t-stat. Just wanted some thoughts. MW My limitted understanding is that your coolant does indeed run through the heater core. My coolant level was low a few weeks back and I was hearing a bubbling noise that I suspected was coming from the core. >I think I just figured something out. In a previous thread I've described > how I'm getting no heat from my heater. When this truck was in the shop, [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > ago.) It was leaking and I couldn't even identify what was leaking. It was > nasty coolant that ran like near sludge or oil. Did your shop flush your system when they pointed out you had a coolant problem? Did they offer to? You should have the old crap flushed out before you install the new heater core. Yes, they flushed the system, thanks for checking. MW > >I think I just figured something out. In a previous thread I've described > > how I'm getting no heat from my heater. When this truck was in the shop, [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > You should have the old crap flushed out before you install the new heater > core. >I know nothing about heater cores. Does > the coolant run through the core? Yes. The core is just like your radiator, only in a mini-version. The heater hoses are connected to the engine cooling system. When the coolant gets warm enough, the t-stat opens and lets coolant pass through the entire cooling system, including the mini-radiator heater core. It is very possible to clog the tubing within the core with 'junk' circulating in the coolant. This is a bad thing for the core as it can lead to creating holes in the core tubing, which equals a leak. Breathing that antifreeze laden air in the cabin isn't good for the lung things. Hopefully your cooling system was back-flushed before replacing the coolant. If it wasn't, Prestone makes a back-flush kit, about $5, and it does a very good job. Easy to install/use.....not rocket surgery. You just need to capture the new antifreeze(big tub to hold 3-5gal), follow the instructions, and then pour the AF back in when the flush is done. Voila! BTW: another 'cheap insurance'/smart thing to do, is to replace the radiator cap. Proper pressure in the cooling system is important to the operation of the complete system. Replacing it when performing maintenance is a good/smart thing. While I'm spending your money, check or just go ahead and replace the radiator hoses, heater hoses, and use new SS screw-type clamps. Apparently little/no maintenance was done on the cooling system, so those hoses are very 'suspect'.... Helpful, I hope Dave S(Texas) Okay, to follow up because everyone likes a happy ending. I bought the heater core, but never got around to messing with it. I installed a new t-stat, but the old hoses back on. Then I called my ford truck freak of a buddy and he had me mess with the heater control valve. As soon as I did that, I started the truck and sure enough, HOT AIR!. So the good news is I can get my $30 back for the heater core. The bad news is I don't know if the t-stat fixed it or if the heater control valve was just sticky and needed to be messed with. Now here's the thing. My old t-stat passed the test, I think. I put it in boiling water. But my truck runs very very cold. During September, after 4 hours of driving, the guage never even went past the "C" for Cold. It registered, but not very far. Is it possible the t-stat didn't get hot enough to open or the wax inside was bad/old and therefore needed more heat than usual to open? I honestly think the new t-stat is what fixed it, but you all can be the judges. Thanks for all your help! Enjoying a not so freezing drive to work and home nowadays, MW > >I know nothing about heater cores. Does > > the coolant run through the core? [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > Dave S(Texas) > Now here's the thing. My old t-stat passed the test, I think. I put it in > boiling water. But my truck runs very very cold. During September, after 4 [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > than usual to open? I honestly think the new t-stat is what fixed it, but > you all can be the judges. You can't really rely on your gauge to be accurate...but if indeed your temperature was running cold, your engine won't run correctly. If your temp runs higher now, you will see much better fuel economy. >> Now here's the thing. My old t-stat passed the test, I think. I put it in >> boiling water. But my truck runs very very cold. During September, after [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > temperature was running cold, your engine won't run correctly. If your > temp runs higher now, you will see much better fuel economy. -- Sounds as if your thermostat had failed in the open position. Most thermostats these days do fail in the open position. Thermostat open, engine doesn't get warm for a long time, ergo, No heat! Geogg >my truck runs very very cold. During > September, after 4 hours of driving, the > guage never even went past the "C" for > Cold. It registered, but not very far. Glad to know it's fixed! Hopefully the complete system will stay...fixed. About the gauge: not very accurate. The main thing you want from the gauge is to know if the engine is over-heating. Installing a good water temp gauge, along with a mechanical oil-pressure gauge is a good thing. Knowing the engine temp is a....comfort. Spring/Summer/Fall/Winter the engine should be in the 210°-220° range....NOT(normal operating temp). Of course this NOT range is dependant on the proper heat-range T-stat, and a good radiator cap(among other more important/expensive parts) . For good heater operation the stat should be at least a 180° unit. "messing" with that valve...at least you have 'a place to look' now, after the t-stat replacement. Hopefully the system will stay fixed throughout the cold times! Dave S(Texas) > >I know nothing about heater cores. Does > > the coolant run through the core? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Breathing that antifreeze laden air in the cabin isn't good for the > lung things. If you notice a film on the inside of your windows your heater core may be leaking. I've had this happen on two Ford trucks and it was not enough of a leak for it to drip. The windows always needed to be cleaned. Hopefully your cooling system was back-flushed before > replacing the coolant. If it wasn't, Prestone makes a back-flush kit, > about $5, and it does a very good job. Easy to install/use.....not [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Dave S(Texas) > > >I know nothing about heater cores. Does > > > the coolant run through the core? [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > leaking. I've had this happen on two Ford trucks and it was not enough of a > leak for it to drip. The windows always needed to be cleaned. Wow, what an awesome tip, thanks for the heads-up. I don't have that problem, but my has been having that problem for a while now on his. I'll tell him to investigate it. Thanks. MW > Hopefully your cooling system was back-flushed before > > replacing the coolant. If it wasn't, Prestone makes a back-flush kit, [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > > > Dave S(Texas) Wow sounds like you have solved the problem! |
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