I don't have a chassis electrical for that (mine goes up to 96) but you
couldn't go wrong by checking the fuses with a voltmeter or test light.

If you haven't already .......

There are two openings on the fuse with metal visible.
Check for voltage at *both* ends of the fuse.

If if *both* ends light/show voltage; the fuse is good.

If *neither* end show voltage/light; the circuit's not energised (look
at the fuse description for what to turn on; then retest after doing that)

If only *one* end shows voltage; "it's dead, Jim"

There's another couple of possible fuse/fuseblock problems:
Sometimes a fuse works its way loose. Try pulling each fuse one at a
time and reseating it. While you have it out; look at the connector
blades for corrosion or burn marks.

BTW; I've seen more than a few fuses that *look* good (the melt-link
appears solid) but are open. Check them with a voltmeter,continuity
checker or ohmmeter to be definitely sure. (unless the 'blow' is obvious!)

Always try the easy/free checks first....