I just discovered this group and I have a problem I could use some help
with.
I did a quick google and I see I first need to go to the parts store and
see who does the free OBD check, but...
In the mean time, my 1992 F-150, 5 liter has developed a slight
roughness in the idle and sometimes when you put it into reverse, it will
die. Otherwise it runs great. Same gas mileage, nothing else seems to have
changed. About 350K miles on it ( I attribute the good running to Mobile 1
oil all it's life). Last inspection for state sticker, the tech said it
passed, but the numbers were a bit high.
It's had a tune up of plugs, wires and rotor, new coil.
I cleaned the throttle body and that seemed to help for about a week,
then it came back the same as before.
Any help is appreciated!!!! I like this old truck a lot. We have been
through a lot together and I intend to use it till it dies completely, which
I hope won't be for a long time to come!
Mike
ps Please post here on the group for all to see.
JimV - 19 Mar 2006 16:31 GMT
Most parts stores can only check ODBII systems ('96 and up).
> I just discovered this group and I have a problem I could use some help
> with.
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> ps Please post here on the group for all to see.
lugnut - 19 Mar 2006 17:04 GMT
>I just discovered this group and I have a problem I could use some help
>with.
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
>ps Please post here on the group for all to see.
Did you remove and clean the IAC. They sometimes need to be
removed and soak the valve poriton in solvent overnite to
break some of the gum loose. You may also want to re-clean
the throttle body using an old toothbrush to work all the
gum lose aroung the throttle valve. Another thing you
should check is fuel pressure. That vintage had an
ovvasional pressure regulator failure for which they were
recalled. If you pull the vacuum line from it and find
fuel, it is definitely bad. Another indication is burning
eyes when you are close to the exhaust. This usually
results in poor fuel mileage. Another problem with that one
is the tendency for the gasket between the upper and lower
intake to leak. It is easily replaced but, you must torque
it properly as they are very sensitive to this. A leak
along this gasket can sometimes be found by spraying carb
cleaner or a similar material along the gasket while looking
and watching for a chenge in idle. I do not suggest ether
as you can light yourself up easily and then it won't much
matter how the engine idles. It can also damage the engine
if you have a large leak and therefore get a larger slug
sucked in. Unfortunately, the leak is usually on the right
side where it is hard to ID. If you decide to replace that
gasket, there are a couple of gotchas. Someone here can
fill you in if you tackle it.
Lugnut
M D - 19 Mar 2006 18:12 GMT
>>I just discovered this group and I have a problem I could use some help
>>with.
[quoted text clipped - 46 lines]
>
> Lugnut
Thanks for the info Lugnit!
I went out and looked at the engine, didn't (or missed it) see the IAC
on it anywhere.
SO I went to the Haynes manual and found no reference to the IAC.
I did find a couple of good pics of the unit, so I know where to look
and what it looks like, just don't see it.
I am off to the store for another can of T body cleaner and will do that
first with a nice new tooth brush!
I will also pull a vac line and inspect, plus check fuel pressure.
Mike
GARY - 25 Mar 2006 04:29 GMT
Idle Air Control (IAC) will likely be the problem. I think I paid about
$50 for mine. They may be cleaned if you want to try that first.
Gary