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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / April 2006

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Different ways to bleed the clutch

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tomcas - 06 Apr 2006 04:51 GMT
If your newer Ford or Mazda hydraulic clutch isn't leaking fluid out,
but has so much trapped air in it that the clutch barely disengages,
then there are several ways to bleed the air out.
Reverse Fluid Injection is supposed to be one of the best ways but if
you don't first flush out the slave cylinder you will end up shooting
all that crappy fluid and seal dust up into the master cylinder and
reservoir, likely causing more problems. Invariably, if you go to bleed
this crappy fluid out the slave bleeder by the old two person pump and
bleed method, you will only make things worst, and end up with a
complete air bomb. This air bomb is in the master cylinder, which is at
angle precisely the wrong direction for air removal. Vacuum bleeders are
suppose to work most times, but not all the time in releasing this
trapped air. You could demount the master cylinder but that’s a royal
pain.  This is the point where many mechanics attach a device, which
pressurizes the reservoir with fluid. It's a little messy but it works.
A cheaper way is to fill a simple pump oilier with brake fluid and
squirt it down into the hole at the bottom of the reservoir while a
helper slowly releases the clutch pedal. You have to hold the oilier
flex line tightly into the hole but you will feel it filling the master
cylinder each time your helper release the clutch. I found this method
so effective that reverse bleeding was not needed. If reverse filling is
needed there is a very simple way an MGB enthusiast came up with. Fill
length tubing with brake fluid and connect it from the clutch slave
cylinder bleeder to the closest brake cylinder bleeder (pre flushed of
course). Open both up and pump the brake a few times checking
occasionally not to empty the brake reservoir, nor to overflow the
clutch reservoir. I hope this helps some.
<@>¿<@> guess who - 09 Apr 2006 17:33 GMT
this ford clutch  needs bleed once a month,,, 3 weeks after bleding it
still works BUT then between week 4 and 6 it need bleed again ....keep
in mind theres no fluid leak ..the clutch just gets a air bubble from
some where......   you can email me any info you might know  

tomcas@mjwebsitedesign.com WROTE

Different ways to bleed the clutch  

Group: alt.trucks.ford Date: Wed, Apr 5, 2006, 11:51pm From:
tomcas@mjwebsitedesign.com (tomcas)
If your newer Ford or Mazda hydraulic clutch isn't leaking fluid out,
but has so much trapped air in it that the clutch barely disengages,
then there are several ways to bleed the air out. Reverse Fluid
Injection is supposed to be one of the best ways but if you don't first
flush out the slave cylinder you will end up shooting all that crappy
fluid and seal dust up into the master cylinder and reservoir, likely
causing more problems. Invariably, if you go to bleed this crappy fluid
out the slave bleeder by the old two person pump and bleed method, you
will only make things worst, and end up with a complete air bomb. This
air bomb is in the master cylinder, which is at angle precisely the
wrong direction for air removal. Vacuum bleeders are suppose to work
most times, but not all the time in releasing this trapped air. You
could demount the master cylinder but that's a royal pain. This is the
point where many mechanics attach a device, which pressurizes the
reservoir with fluid. It's a little messy but it works. A cheaper way is
to fill a simple pump oilier with brake fluid and squirt it down into
the hole at the bottom of the reservoir while a helper slowly releases
the clutch pedal. You have to hold the oilier flex line tightly into the
hole but you will feel it filling the master cylinder each time your
helper release the clutch. I found this method so effective that reverse
bleeding was not needed. If reverse filling is needed there is a very
simple way an MGB enthusiast came up with. Fill length tubing with brake
fluid and connect it from the clutch slave cylinder bleeder to the
closest brake cylinder bleeder (pre flushed of course). Open both up and
pump the brake a few times checking occasionally not to empty the brake
reservoir, nor to overflow the clutch reservoir. I hope this helps some.  
 
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