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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / June 2006

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Ford F150 Won't start

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Alain - 25 May 2006 21:52 GMT
HI

I am driving on the highway 65 mph , 3000 rpm on 1989 V6 FI F150 .
There is a loud explosion from underneath the truck and my engine cuts
off .
Towed back home I explore the truck and try to diagnostic the problem.
The muffler has completely exploded filled with pieces from the
catalytic converter
The Engine crank but does not start.
Fumes exhaust slightly from the remaining exhasut pipe when trying to
start the engine, there is no visible blockage and a wire probe runs
fine through the pipe
When disconnecting the air filter line to the intake there is a strong
smell of gasoline mixture. When trying to prime some starter fluid and
cranking the engine there is an explosion rejecting the fumes and flame
from the air filters lines (burned the air of my hand)
I can see the camshaft and a couple valves moving by looking  through
the OIL Cap opening
The engine cranks fine otherwise with no out of the ordinary noises.
up to this incident never had backfiring or ignition problems. 500
miles ago I change the EGR valve and control unit clearing an engine
light problem.
At this point I am thinking in changing the Ignition module to see if
it is resolving the problem.
Any hints will be appreciated.
Alain.
Alain - 27 May 2006 01:00 GMT
I changed the ignition module and still the engine won't start. I
checked the spark plug on cylinder #1 and when I crank the engine there
is a good spark. The tip of the plug is very dark, like if it was
charred. It could be a problem with timing , but that happened while
driving, I am still trying to figure it out.

> HI
>
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> Any hints will be appreciated.
> Alain.
djdave - 27 May 2006 16:17 GMT
I would bet on a mechanical timing problem. Get your #1 cyl. up to top
dead center and check where your distributor is. If its not on cyl. 1
your timing chain jumped.
Theory on the exploding cat, timing jumps, unburned fuel enters cat,
cat explodes on a backfire.

>I changed the ignition module and still the engine won't start. I
>checked the spark plug on cylinder #1 and when I crank the engine there
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>> Any hints will be appreciated.
>> Alain.
David M - 27 May 2006 17:55 GMT
> I would bet on a mechanical timing problem. Get your #1 cyl. up to top
> dead center and check where your distributor is. If its not on cyl. 1
> your timing chain jumped.

No timing chain on a 300 I6, gears only.

> Theory on the exploding cat, timing jumps, unburned fuel enters cat,
> cat explodes on a backfire.
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>>> Any hints will be appreciated.
>>> Alain.

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David M  (dmacchiarolo)
http://home.triad.rr.com/redsled
T/S 53
sled351 Linux 2.4.18-14  has been up 12 days 17:21

Alain - 28 May 2006 01:52 GMT
I have changed the distributor cap and rotor just in case. Still no
change. I have sparks . I have fuel Pressure. I even use some starter
fluid in the intak just to verify that it is not fuel related. I have
opened the air intake to make sure air is going in. Still he does not
fire.
handhel computer code shows 11, pass KOEO tests. I was contempleting
the timing chain jump, but with gear that is out of the question, or
there would be some serious damage and it would sound accordingly. I
have taken out the broken catalytic converter and the rest of the
muffler. I do not think these are needed to get the engine started. If
it is then that 's my problem. I planned once I get the engine started
to put a new converter and muffler.
I have red that unusual wear and tear of the distributor on the camshat
can be the cause. At this point I do not know what to try. My next
course of action is to take apart the intake and injectors, the cover
and take a closer look at the valves. It is frustrated somehow, because
everything appears OK, Sparks Fuel, Air we should have combustion.
Truck was working when it happened. , I ' ll keep posting on progress.
Alain - 29 May 2006 02:18 GMT
I have made some reading and I am wondering if the Hall Switch and or
the Crankshaft position sensor could be responsible for the timing
offset. I would have thought that the computer would report a failure
sensor but then again , how much can we trust that technology. IF these
sensors are defective could it cause the firing to be off ?
Alain - 04 Jun 2006 03:53 GMT
> I have made some reading and I am wondering if the Hall Switch and or
> the Crankshaft position sensor could be responsible for the timing
> offset. I would have thought that the computer would report a failure
> sensor but then again , how much can we trust that technology. IF these
> sensors are defective could it cause the firing to be off ?

Well I did not get the CPS . Autozone did not carry it. The guys in the
shop were advising that the CPS is not the culprit but the timing gear
must have slipped off somehow. I decide to unmount the ditributor
assembly and shift it counter clock wise a few positions. After 4
shifts I got the engine started. I am able to use a timing lamp now and
I am not out of the woods but it is progress. I am startled by this
behavior however. I am starting ot wonder if the timing gear are indeed
responsible for this breakdown. I have seen the gear in the car part
store and it seems incredible that a jump can happen. I would speculzte
that it could break, but then nothing would work anymore.
David M - 04 Jun 2006 12:32 GMT
>> I have made some reading and I am wondering if the Hall Switch and or
>> the Crankshaft position sensor could be responsible for the timing
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> store and it seems incredible that a jump can happen. I would speculzte
> that it could break, but then nothing would work anymore.

Are you positive that you have the plug wires in the right order?

Signature

David M  (dmacchiarolo)
http://home.triad.rr.com/redsled
T/S 53
sled351 Linux 2.4.18-14  has been up 23:05 1 user

Alain - 04 Jun 2006 14:46 GMT
I did check the firing order and if the wires were in the right order :
1 4 2 6 3 5 just as required with wire number one at the right location
(mark 1 on distributor cap). It could not have been the cause of the
breakdown since It was driving fine, but I could have mismatch the
wires when I changed the distributor cap. I did make so one wire at the
time and checked with the specs after. I am afraid I need to take the
all front if for nothing more than to check the timing gears... it
sucks!

> >> I have made some reading and I am wondering if the Hall Switch and or
> >> the Crankshaft position sensor could be responsible for the timing
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> T/S 53
> sled351 Linux 2.4.18-14  has been up 23:05 1 user
djdave - 04 Jun 2006 16:29 GMT
i would personally plan on replacing the gears, and dropping in a
rebuilt distributor.
I havent been in a 300, dont have one in the fleet, but if gear driven
it should be a breeze.
Worst one I did, the oilpan had to be removed.

>I did check the firing order and if the wires were in the right order :
>1 4 2 6 3 5 just as required with wire number one at the right location
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
>> T/S 53
>> sled351 Linux 2.4.18-14  has been up 23:05 1 user
 
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