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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / June 2006Aerostar wont start when wet
I have a 1995 Aerostar, 3.0, w/225K. New ignition wires, plugs, dist cap, rotor. When its rainy or damp out, it will turn over, but not start. I have to use a warm blower inside the engine compartment for 15-20 minutes, it will then start. Any help would be appreciated -- newhorizon111 if u leave it outside its condensation inside the distributor cap, it wont start cause its wet inside the cap. try covering the motor,hood, or move it under a cover or inside. Next time it happens, use the dryer just on the coil. See if it starts quicker. Just a thought. >I have a 1995 Aerostar, 3.0, w/225K. New ignition wires, plugs, dist cap, rotor. When its rainy or damp out, it will turn over, but not start. I have to use a warm blower inside the engine compartment for 15-20 minutes, it will then start. Any help would be appreciated. > Next time it happens, use the dryer just on the coil. > See if it starts quicker. It sounds like a cracked coil to me as well. That would have been my first guess. > I have a 1995 Aerostar, 3.0, w/225K. New ignition wires, plugs, dist cap, rotor. When its rainy or damp out, it will turn over, but not start. I have to use a warm blower inside the engine compartment for 15-20 minutes, it will then start. Any help would be appreciated. Carefully examine (with magnification) the inside the cap for hairline cracks or carbon tracking. If no moisture or tracking is found, then next time you get it started after the problem, check the engine compartment at night in complete darkness, looking for any arcing. "Way back, we used to spray the inside of the cap with WD-40 (Or an equivalent). If it starts, there was a crack on the cap like you've described. WD-40 also was good for removing moisture from the inside of the cap. Is the stuff still good for this? H. ============ > > I have a 1995 Aerostar, 3.0, w/225K. New ignition wires, plugs, dist cap, > > rotor. When its rainy or damp out, it will turn over, but not start. I [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > next time you get it started after the problem, check the engine > compartment at night in complete darkness, looking for any arcing. Sure is. Cant beat it. >"Way back, we used to spray the inside of the cap with WD-40 (Or an >equivalent). If it starts, there was a crack on the cap like you've [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] >> next time you get it started after the problem, check the engine >> compartment at night in complete darkness, looking for any arcing. > Sure is. > Cant beat it. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >> >> Is the stuff still good for this? That's all it's good for (WD=water displacement). Somewhere along they line it became known as a penetrant and lubricant which it's not (at least not a good one). > > Sure is. > > Cant beat it. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > line it became known as a penetrant and lubricant which it's not (at > least not a good one). And that's all I said it was. Obviously, it will only get you to a parts store where you will replace the old cap - if that was the problem. Regarding the DHMO, try to keep water out of the cap. H. |
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