> Carrier bearing on a modified 1996 f150. I am having the universals
> replaced ( they are making noise), and was wondering how to tell when the
> carrier goes bad? beside the obvious when it cracks, lol. is it advisable
> to just go ahead and replace it? The part can't cost that much I suppose.
> The vehicle has 140k, a 5.8, 4x4, and is a centurion conversion, a full 4
> door cab. and pulls a travel trailer.
> "Normally" differentials do not need preventative maintenance beyond
> changing of the oil. The bearing doesn't cost very much, but the labor is on
> the steep side. The pre-loading and gear mesh need to be adjusted, making
> this job beyond the reach of most of us shadetree mechanics.
The carrier bearing is in the middle of a two piece drive shaft, not in the
differential.
I would probably replace the bearing while doing the three u-joints. If
there is a good drive
shaft shop in the area, I would remove the drive shaft assembly and then
have them do it all
including rebalancing the assembly. I have one in my area that's all they
do is drive shafts and half shafts
and the cost is very reasonable.
If you do it yourself be sure to mark the drive shafts so they go back
together the same way, some have a blind spline so you cant do otherwise,
but some do not.
Whitelightning
Jeff Strickland - 04 Jun 2006 21:09 GMT
>> "Normally" differentials do not need preventative maintenance beyond
>> changing of the oil. The bearing doesn't cost very much, but the labor is
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> the
> differential.
Excuse me! I had the wrong bearing in my head. I'd replace the center
bearing with the U-joints.
As for rebalancing, that's perhaps a good idea, but if the shaft is taken
apart and put together again in the same orientation, the balance ought not
be affected -- making this unnecessary.
> I would probably replace the bearing while doing the three u-joints. If
> there is a good drive
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> together the same way, some have a blind spline so you cant do otherwise,
> but some do not.
HINT
Mark all of the places where the shaft can be taken apart, include the yokes
where the shaft connects to the trans(tcase) and the differential. Then,
make sure to align all of the marks again upon reassembly. I like to use
white paint, the kind we used to use as a kid to paint model cars. Use the
small brush to draw a smal line on EVERY joint that comes apart -- yokes and
slip joints -- and then simply realign the marks during the rebuild.