Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / July 2006

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

F350 7.3L diesel bleeding question

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Chris - 21 Jul 2006 09:59 GMT
Hello all,

I have a 93 F350 with the 7.3 diesel engine, and am ready to change out

the coolant.  I have read that after draining the block and radiator of

antifreeze, you need to bleed the system while refilling it.  The
instructions I read say that while filling, you need to disconnect the
top hose from the water pump (the one that goes to the heater core) and

reconnect it once coolant begins to come out of the pump.

I was wondering if anyone had more information on this step - is it
necessary, and if so, is there a way to avoid doing so?  For example,
if I left the coolant in the block, and only drained the radiator,
would that let me avoid having to disconnect the water pump hose while
refilling?

Thanks in advance,

Chris
David M - 21 Jul 2006 10:30 GMT
> Hello all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> would that let me avoid having to disconnect the water pump hose while
> refilling?

Yes, but then you leave half of the old coolant in the block.  Kind of
defeats the purpose of changing the coolant.

Signature

David M  (dmacchiarolo)
http://home.triad.rr.com/redsled
T/S 53
sled351 Linux 2.4.18-14  has been up 1 day 7:06

Chris - 22 Jul 2006 08:54 GMT
Hi David,

I was hoping I could follow the "ultra short" version of how to clean
out the system, as described on
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/1999faq/Maintenance-Cooling.htm

Ultra short version courtesy of Steve Pepin:

1) Open the fill cap and drain the system through the petcock.
2) Refill with fresh water to the capacity of the system.
3) Turn on the heater and run the engine until normal operating
temperature is reached.
4) Turn off the engine.
5) Repeat steps 1 through 4 until all the water comes out clear.
6) Drain the system through the petcock. There will probably be water
in the reservoir -- don't worry.
7) Calculate the correct amount of coolant for the proper mixture and
pour it in.
8) Fill the rest of the way with clear water.
9) Run the engine to normal operating temperature and top off the
system with water.
10) Add the correct level of additive.
11) Enjoy the rest of your day.

My main question had to do with whether you really have to remove the
water pump hose to avoid air pockets in the system, or if that is just
incorrect advice.  The hose is a pain to take off, and if I can follow
the steps above, I don't mind the extra drain/fill cycles involved.
Whitelightning - 22 Jul 2006 21:04 GMT
If you drain the rad, it will drain the block as well.  Pulling the hose of
just gives the air that gets in the system a place to vent as your filling
the cooling system. If getting the hose off is a pain, why not put a flush
tee in the line?

Whitelightning
Chris - 23 Jul 2006 22:29 GMT
The hose was old and cooked on to the metal, which is why I first
didn't want to mess with it.  I decided to bite the bullet and just cut
the old hose off, and replaced it with a silicone line.  That should
make it a lot easier to remove in the future, but the flush tee is an
idea I'll keep in mind for future reference.  Thanks for the idea!

> If you drain the rad, it will drain the block as well.  Pulling the hose of
> just gives the air that gets in the system a place to vent as your filling
> the cooling system. If getting the hose off is a pain, why not put a flush
> tee in the line?
>
> Whitelightning
monkeyboy - 21 Jul 2006 15:03 GMT
>Hello all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
>Chris
The real question is if you have the correct info why are on this forum
asking if it's OK to do a halfass job. I think you should drain and refill
your brain pan but only the lower half, you know, the part you sit on.
HHHHAAA
fordtech - 21 Jul 2006 15:13 GMT
>>Hello all,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>your brain pan but only the lower half, you know, the part you sit on.
>HHHHAAA

Monkeyboy not only do you hand out alot of good info, you're also one funny
hit the nail on the head kind of guy. Often wonder how some of these tweekers
actually figured out how to get on line.
aarcuda69062 - 21 Jul 2006 20:41 GMT
> >Hello all,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> your brain pan but only the lower half, you know, the part you sit on.
> HHHHAAA

Wow, and you're both here via CarKB.com.
Herb Ludwig - 23 Jul 2006 13:43 GMT
"aarcuda69062" <nonelson@sbcglobal.net> wrote >
>Wow, and you're both here via CarKB.com.

Good call, nonelson!
Some of these "monkey" posters are just teenage spammers and need to create
their own fake support posts.
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2009 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.