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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / October 2006

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Rebuild 87 ford 302 EFI now runs very rich

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mattkorby@hotmail.com - 24 Sep 2006 15:53 GMT
I just rebuild my ford pickup motor that is a 1987 ford 302 EFI Mostly
stock But a comp cam and headers now it is very rich I can't seem to
find any probloms tested vacuum lines and I have tested a few of the
sensors. but I was more wondering if, with a larger cam I could be
loosing my vacuum that runs things like the map and such
lugnut - 24 Sep 2006 20:12 GMT
>I just rebuild my ford pickup motor that is a 1987 ford 302 EFI Mostly
>stock But a comp cam and headers now it is very rich I can't seem to
>find any probloms tested vacuum lines and I have tested a few of the
>sensors. but I was more wondering if, with a larger cam I could be
>loosing my vacuum that runs things like the map and such

Don't know whch cam or cam specs you installed but, Comp
does (or did) make a cam that should be compatible with your
EFI system.  If the cam you installed has more aggressive
specs, it is not only possible but probable that the MAP
sensor will not be able to deal with it.   A MAF system can
deal with considerable engine modification.  You may end up
going to FordRacing for a MAF conversion kit which includes
a new ECM, an MAF sensor and an overlay wiring harness -
don't know if these are still available for that vintage.
You may be on your own to either use a milder cam or figure
out which parts to do the conversion.  I hope you were not
looking fo a noisy/lumpy idle as awas the caser with carbed
engines with long duration performance cams.  A properly
tuned MAF system will not only deal with it but all but
eliminate the unsteady idle from any streetable cam.  The
unsteady idel was caused by a low vacuum sugnal.  The MAF
only meters the air actually entering the engine.

Good luck

Lugnut
mattkorby@hotmail.com - 25 Sep 2006 00:08 GMT
When I bought the rebuild kit the salesman said that it was compatable
with the efi it is part number 31-216-2  .447 lift Intake and Exhaust
Intake 24 BTDC 56 ABDC Exh 64 BBDC 16 ATDC
lugnut - 25 Sep 2006 04:27 GMT
>When I bought the rebuild kit the salesman said that it was compatable
>with the efi it is part number 31-216-2  .447 lift Intake and Exhaust
>Intake 24 BTDC 56 ABDC Exh 64 BBDC 16 ATDC

I have used the Comp 260 deg and the Crane 262 and 268 deg
cams with speed density with decent idle charachteristics
with the exception of a slight rpm roll at idle.  If you are
running too righ with that duration, you should be looking
at things like the ECT and ACT sensors and checking their
values against a resistance chart that can usually be found
in a good shop manual.  Most all of those Ford EEC-IV
systems used sensors with similar values.  The MAP sensor
works on a signal frequqncy and needs a frequency meter to
check it against the charts.  It is not usually the problem.
One of the most frequent failure causing a rich mixture in
them is a bad or failed fuel pressure regulator.  That
engine should have about 32-35 psi at idle depending on
manifold vacuum.  Another frequent problem with vacuum and
therefore, fuel pressure is ignition timing.  Make sure you
have pulled the SPOUT connector to set the vacuum or you
will have lower vacuum, higher fuel pressure and richer mix.
Also, make sure your TPS is reading .5>.9 volts.  1.0 VDC or
more and the ECM starts the fuel and timing curve.  Before
you chack this, you will need to make sure the base idle is
pretty close.   If you have never touched it, it should be
OK.  Your cam should be fine if you have it correctly timed.
You should not have to do any conversions or modifications
for the engine to run properly with that grind.  I hope you
also took the time to set the lifter preloads correctly.
Ford Racing has a shim kit to make sure they are correct.

Lugnut
walt peifer - 25 Sep 2006 14:32 GMT
>>When I bought the rebuild kit the salesman said that it was compatable
>>with the efi it is part number 31-216-2  .447 lift Intake and Exhaust
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>
> Lugnut

the problem you outlined is one that is common when upgrading the 87 style
speed density fuel injected systems. the parameters  built into the computer
just can't handle the increase. there are some aftermarket fixes that try
and cheat this system, but in the long run you will be better off converting
your car to the Mass Air fuel injection system. many companions sell this as
a kit, or there are dozens of internet sites that will walk you through it
with junk yard parts.
lugnut - 25 Sep 2006 17:13 GMT
>>>When I bought the rebuild kit the salesman said that it was compatable
>>>with the efi it is part number 31-216-2  .447 lift Intake and Exhaust
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
>a kit, or there are dozens of internet sites that will walk you through it
>with junk yard parts.

I have done several of these type setups in that vintage.
Basically, the ticket is a donor Mustang GT of early '90's
vintage for a complete mass air system.  He may need to get
hands on a wiring diagram for the ECM and wire harness used
and change the injector sequencing to match the firing order
of his cam if he used a stock firing order cam.  If he got
lucky and got the cam with the HO firing order which I have
used a couple of times, he won't have to change the GT ECM
injector firing order.  Once he gets the engine straightened
out, a 4.10:1 rear gear will really wake it up.

Lugnut
mattkorby@hotmail.com - 27 Sep 2006 02:23 GMT
I put a vacuum pump on the map and pumped it up to 15 inch of vac and
the truck ideled but the problom is that in the manifold I had about
three and a half everyone that I talk to says that the specs on the cam
should not cause this. I was thinking that maybe wrong cam was sent in
the box I am in the middle of doing a compretion check on the cylinders
so far I am coming up with about 100 PSI I am going to finnish it
tomarrow and if I don't find any cylinders that stand out I am going to
pull a valve cover off and double check the lift and duration of the
cam just to make sure any other ideas would be helpfull. I was also
wondering about the timing chain. I checked it about six times but if I
could have screwed it up.
lugnut - 27 Sep 2006 04:47 GMT
>I put a vacuum pump on the map and pumped it up to 15 inch of vac and
>the truck ideled but the problom is that in the manifold I had about
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>wondering about the timing chain. I checked it about six times but if I
>could have screwed it up.

With vacuum and compression that low, I would suspect you
have the cam off on timing.  I would usually expect around
14-15" or better vacuum with this setup -  certainly not
3-4".  Even one tooth will do this.  If you used a multi
slot crank gear, make sure you have it set right.  For this
setup, I usually like to use either the straight up slot or
a 4 deg advance.  A bit of advance gives better response off
the bottom end.  It usually results in more vacuum and
compression.  Keep in mind that many cams have a 5 deg
advance ground in.  Comp and Crane both usually do this.  Be
sure you check the cam spec card that came with it.  If it
is ground with 5 deg advance, do not use an advanced gear
slot.  Install it in the straight up position on the crank
sprocket.  You should have the timing marks lined straight
up with them pointing at each other.  Use a straight edge
thru the centers to be sure.  If you have and can use a
degree wheel, that will confirm proper timing.  If I am
building a performance engine on the stand, I will check the
timing and lift on every lobe of the cam.  I have seen one
or two that were not correct but, this will usually show up
on the compression test if one or two are out of spec.
Also, make sure of which ignition firing order the cam is.
Many performance cams use the HO firing order which is the
same as the 351/5.8L engine.  I hate to say this but, many
people cannot identify a misfire or crossfire in an engine
with a performance cam.  This will kill it.  Again, with the
exception of a slight rpm roll at idle, this cam should be
pretty darn smooth.  One last thought: make sure the part
folks did not give you a cam for a roller motor.  Your
vintage engine needs a cam for flat tappets. I have seen
this happen.  I may not be noticed by a novice with this
engine until you try to run it.  If you bought a cam kit
with lifters in the same box, it should be OK.  If they came
in separate boxs, get the numbers and call CompCams tech for
verification of compatibility.

Lugnut
mattkorby@hotmail.com - 30 Sep 2006 21:05 GMT
I pulled the front cover off, and I had forgot to put the dal pin in
the cam to cam gear Thank you for all of your help
lugnut - 01 Oct 2006 01:31 GMT
>I pulled the front cover off, and I had forgot to put the dal pin in
>the cam to cam gear Thank you for all of your help

UR welcome.  It was late cam timing that bit U.  I'll bet
you remember it next time!

Lugnut
 
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