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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / October 2006Replacing wheel studs F-250
I've got to replace all the studs on my rear wheels. It's got that big Dana axle, and the studs are 3.5" long. NO room to get them in. I had to cut the old ones to get them out. Question: It looks like if I take loose the emergency brake cable at the shoe and take it out of the hole in the backing plate, I will have enough room. True? And any good way to take the cable loose? there seems to be no adjustment for this. TIA MM^^ >I've got to replace all the studs on my rear wheels. It's got that big Dana >axle, and the studs are 3.5" long. NO room to get them in. I had to cut the >old ones to get them out. Simply pull the axle out of hub (unbolt it) and then remove hub/spindle bearing retainer bolt and pull hub and press studs out then press new ones in. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com > Simply pull the axle out of hub (unbolt it) and then remove > hub/spindle bearing retainer bolt and pull hub and press studs out > then press new ones in. > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com Ummm, never tried that. I heard the retainer bolt is a special tool job? All I need is about 1/2" to start the new studs. Do I need new seals or whatever? Thanks, MM^^ >Ummm, never tried that. I heard the retainer bolt is a special tool job? All >I need is about 1/2" to start the new studs. Do I need new seals or >whatever? It requires a specail spanner socket but in a pinch you can use a brass drift and a hammer. (the socket is not a bad addition to a tool set either) As far as seals, maybe the axle flange to hub seal at most unless it is high mileage and you want to change inner hub seal that seals hub to spindle stub. (it would not hurt to do it while you are in there but usually they are quite reusable if they are not weeping yet. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com > It requires a specail spanner socket but in a pinch you can use a > brass drift and a hammer. (the socket is not a bad addition to a tool [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > weeping yet. > ----------------- Ok, and thanks. I just finished getting it back together. I used a drift punch and a ahmmer to get the nut loose. I found out it's a left hand thread on the driver's side, normal on the other (wierd). Took awhile to get the proper seal for the axle flange. Nothing matched up, but Auto Zone had one from Timken that replaces the old style. No major problems at all. I found out that the spanner socket is $20 at Auto Zone, after I did the job :( While I was at it, I replaced the shoes and hardware........been awhile, but it went fine. Thanks! MM^^ >> It requires a specail spanner socket but in a pinch you can use a >> brass drift and a hammer. (the socket is not a bad addition to a tool [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > >MM^^ Good deal, glad it worked out fine for you. I have used the drift thin in the past myself. Make sure bearing are not too tight or to loose ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
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