yeah remover the 6 bolts holding down the upper intake plenum ,the middle right side bolt has a torx head ,not your reg 1/2 inch
socket , can't remember what size it is , t 20 t 25 maybe t 30 use a flash light and look for it first and see if you have a tool
to undo it , and you will need a new gasket for the upper intake ,they will break
Whats the procedure for changing the badly leaking valve cover gaskets on my
1990 F-150 5.0l? I am fairly good with a wrench but I have never tackled
the 5L with the air plenum. Whats the estimated time for a newbie at this?
I had my Dodge V10 down to 30 minutes to replace the rocker bolts that kept
shearing off. (Long story involving cracked heads). Any caveats I need to
watch out for? Do I just start removing what is attached until I get to the
covers? Will I need any new gaskets? Any advice would be greatly
appreciated. I am getting tired of the oil smell and my boat getting little
oil dots on it after I pull it 500 miles or so. :)
Thanks!
-Dave
Chevy - 27 Sep 2003 00:23 GMT
ok looked at work and the torx bit i use is a T40 ,
yeah remover the 6 bolts holding down the upper intake plenum ,the middle right side bolt has a torx head ,not your reg 1/2 inch
socket , can't remember what size it is , t 20 t 25 maybe t 30 use a flash light and look for it first and see if you have a tool
to undo it , and you will need a new gasket for the upper intake ,they will break
"--== Dave ==--" <anon1981@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:vmvltaln66q678@corp.supernews.com...
Whats the procedure for changing the badly leaking valve cover gaskets on my
1990 F-150 5.0l? I am fairly good with a wrench but I have never tackled
the 5L with the air plenum. Whats the estimated time for a newbie at this?
I had my Dodge V10 down to 30 minutes to replace the rocker bolts that kept
shearing off. (Long story involving cracked heads). Any caveats I need to
watch out for? Do I just start removing what is attached until I get to the
covers? Will I need any new gaskets? Any advice would be greatly
appreciated. I am getting tired of the oil smell and my boat getting little
oil dots on it after I pull it 500 miles or so. :)
Thanks!
-Dave
Bob - 27 Sep 2003 00:36 GMT
> ok looked at work and the torx bit i use is a T40 ,
>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> -Dave
If you plan on keeping the truck for a few years get the gaskets from Ford.
Get the steel ones with the rubber lip. They will never leak, the gaskets
made out of cork, etc. will tend to leak again in time. The steel ones are
also a lot easier to install. They run about $23 apiece.
Bob
alvinj@XX.com - 27 Sep 2003 06:48 GMT
> If you plan on keeping the truck for a few years get the gaskets
> from Ford. Get the steel ones with the rubber lip. They will never
> leak, the gaskets made out of cork, etc. will tend to leak again
> in time. The steel ones are also a lot easier to install. They run
> about $23 apiece.
> Bob
What about no-gasket and just use RTV?
That's what the ford shop told me to do to a pinto engine once.
They didn't have one in stock and said it "would work better
anyway". Worked out great! But that was a pinto engine, what
about his 302 or my 360? And will RTV-only- work good on an oil
pan gasket?
Alvin in AZ
Plasyd - 27 Sep 2003 16:11 GMT
> What about no-gasket and just use RTV?
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> about his 302 or my 360? And will RTV-only- work good on an oil
> pan gasket?
Dunno, Alvin. I know I once used a cardboard gasket from a soda carton for a
transmission gasket on an old LTD I once owned. Worked okay, but I sold the
dern car soon afterwards.
Plasyd
Bob - 28 Sep 2003 02:15 GMT
> > If you plan on keeping the truck for a few years get the gaskets
> > from Ford. Get the steel ones with the rubber lip. They will never
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> Alvin in AZ
I've used RTV to seal both valve covers and oil pans with good luck but I
wouldn't recommend it for this application. The proper gaskets aren't that
expensive and having to do it the second time is no fun.
Bob
alvinj@XX.com - 28 Sep 2003 18:56 GMT
> I've used RTV to seal both valve covers and oil pans with good
> luck but I wouldn't recommend it for this application. The proper
> gaskets aren't that expensive and having to do it the second time
> is no fun.
> Bob
So, RTVing new seals down is the best bet?
Alvin in AZ
Steve Barker - 28 Sep 2003 22:56 GMT
no. no rtv is required on vc gaskets especially on fords.

Signature
Steve
=======================
Remove the not dot from my address to abuse my email box
>
> > I've used RTV to seal both valve covers and oil pans with good
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Alvin in AZ
Bob - 29 Sep 2003 01:11 GMT
> > I've used RTV to seal both valve covers and oil pans with good
> > luck but (((((((((I WOULDN'T RECCOMEND IT))))))))) for this application.
The proper
> > gaskets aren't that expensive and having to do it the second time
> > is no fun.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Alvin in AZ
If you are talking about using those cheap cork gaskets and gluing them in
place with RTV..... absolutely not! It will almost surely leak. Buy the
metal gaskets from Ford, install them clean and dry and you will NEVER have
to do the job again. I think VS50031C1 is the correct part number.
Bob
Renquest - 09 Jul 2006 07:56 GMT
> This is just the advice I needed. No RTV...clean and dry. I sprung for the $23 set (no instructions).
rokkinhorse@webtv.net - 29 Sep 2003 06:05 GMT
Alvin,
For the oilpan gasket, I wouldn't use anything but the silicone gaskets
with the steel sleeves.
Peen the pan holes, clean all surfaces good with carb cleaner and use
contact cement on the pan/gasket surface.
The cement or weatherstriping adhesive will hold the gasket in place and
the steel sleeves keep you from over-tightening the pan gasket bolts.
MHO, of course.
Randy
Get yourself a set of torx bits, 3/8 drive.
There's ONE frikken torxhead in between the intake runners that's a
livin BITCH to get at (you'll probably have to grind the torx socket to
make it fit) and has to be removed in order to split the upper and lower
intakes.
It's the only way to get clearance you'll need to replace the valve
cover on the right bank.
Oh, and be ready to replace the intake gaskets on the lower intake while
you're in there.
Might save ya some time later.
Randy
Removal
Remove engine air cleaner intake tube (9A624) from upper intake manifold.
Remove throttle body shield.
Disconnect electrical connectors at idle air control valve (IAC valve) (9F715)
, throttle position sensor (TP sensor) (9B989) and EGR position sensor.
CAUTION: When disconnecting throttle cable from ball stud, use a screwdriver
or similar tool close to the stud and pry slowly. Pulling by hand may damage
the cable.
Disconnect throttle linkage at throttle ball. Remove two bolts securing
accelerator cable bracket (9723) to intake. Position accelerator cable
bracket with cables out of way.
Disconnect upper intake manifold vacuum fitting connections by disconnecting
all vacuum lines to vacuum tree, vacuum lines to EGR external pressure valve
(9F483) and vacuum line to fuel pressure regulator (9C968).
Disconnect PCV system by disconnecting hose from fitting on top front of
upper intake manifold (9424).
Disconnect EGR transducer hoses from EGR tube.
Disconnect electrical connector from EGR transducer (9J433).
For 5.0L engine, remove two bolts from EGR transducer bracket and remove EGR
transducer.
For 5.8L engine, remove two nuts from EGR transducer bracket and remove EGR
transducer.
Remove canister purge line(s) from fitting(s) on throttle body (9E926).
NOTE: Place drain pan under vehicle.
Disconnect water heater lines from the throttle body.
Disconnect EGR tube from EGR external pressure valve by removing flange nut.
Remove bolt from upper intake support bracket to upper intake manifold.
Remove six upper intake manifold retaining bolts.
For 5.0L only, remove intake manifold shield (9471).
Remove upper intake manifold and throttle body as an assembly from lower
intake manifold.
Installation
CAUTION: Do not use solutions such as brake cleaner, carburetor cleaner, etc.
, as these solutions can leave a residue on the machined surfaces. Use only a
cleaner which meets or exceeds Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A, such as Metal
Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent.
Clean and inspect the mounting faces of the lower and upper intake manifolds.
Position new gasket on lower intake mounting face. The use of alignment studs
may be helpful.
Install upper intake manifold and throttle body assembly to lower intake
manifold making sure gasket remains in place (if alignment studs are not used)
.
For 5.0L only, install intake manifold shield.
Position EGR transducer. For 5.0L engine, install two bolts and tighten to 12-
16 Nm (9-12 lb-ft). For 5.8L engine, install two nuts and tighten to 17-24 Nm
(12-18 lb-ft).
Connect electrical connector to EGR transducer.
Connect EGR transducer hoses to EGR tube.
Install six upper intake manifold retaining bolts and tighten to 17-24 Nm (13-
18 lb-ft).
Install upper intake support bracket to upper manifold attaching bolt.
Install EGR tube. For 5.8L, tighten flange nuts to 41-54 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).
For 5.0L, tighten nuts to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft) at the valve and 27-34 Nm
(20-25 lb-ft) at the intake.
Install canister purge lines to fittings on throttle body.
Connect water heater lines to the throttle body.
Connect PCV hose to rear of upper intake manifold.
Connect vacuum lines to vacuum tree, EGR external pressure valve and fuel
pressure regulator.
Position accelerator cable bracket with cables to upper intake manifold.
Install two retaining bolts and tighten to 11-13 Nm (97-115 lb-in). Connect
throttle cable to throttle body.
Connect electrical connectors at idle air control valve, throttle position
sensor and EGR position sensor.
Install throttle body shield.
Fill and bleed cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03.
Intake Manifold
Item Part Number Description
1 56703 Bolt
2 9J433 EGR Transducer
3 9A474 Intake Manifold Vacuum Outlet Fitting and Cap
4 9A474 Connector
5 9424 Intake Manifold (Upper)
6 9H486 Intake Manifold Upper Gasket
7 9471 Intake Manifold Shield
8 390358 Bolt (5 Req'd)
9 390249 Screw
A — Tighten to 17-24 Nm
(12-18 Lb-Ft)
Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleeding
WARNING: DO NOT STAND IN LINE WITH OR NEAR ENGINE COOLING FAN BLADE (8600)
WHEN ENGINE (6007) IS RUNNING.
WARNING: NEVER REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP (8100) UNDER ANY CONDITIONS WHILE THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS COULD RESULT IN
DAMAGE TO THE COOLING SYSTEM OR ENGINE OR PERSONAL INJURY. TO AVOID HAVING
SCALDING HOT COOLANT OR STEAM BLOW OUT OF THE RADIATOR (8005), USE EXTREME
CARE WHEN REMOVING THE RADIATOR CAP FROM A HOT RADIATOR. WAIT UNTIL THE
ENGINE HAS COOLED, THEN WRAP A THICK CLOTH AROUND THE RADIATOR CAP AND TURN
IT SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. STEP BACK WHILE THE PRESSURE IS RELEASED FROM
THE COOLING SYSTEM. WHEN YOU ARE SURE ALL THE PRESSURE HAS BEEN RELEASED,
PRESS DOWN ON THE RADIATOR CAP (STILL WITH A CLOTH), TURN AND REMOVE IT.
To prevent loss of coolant when draining the radiator, attach a hose on the
radiator draincock (8115) and drain the coolant from the radiator into a
clean container.
To drain the radiator, open the radiator draincock located at the bottom of
the radiator and remove the radiator cap or supply tank cap. The cylinder
block of the V-8 engine is drained by removing the drain plugs located on
both sides of the cylinder block (6010). The six-cylinder engines have one
drain plug located at the right rear of the cylinder block.
If replacing coolant, dispose of old coolant in accordance with applicable
federal, state, and local laws and regulations. Promptly clean up any spilled
coolant.
Without degas bottle, fill the cooling system by installing the cylinder
block drain plug(s) and close the radiator draincock. Disconnect the heater
outlet hose at the water pump (8501) to bleed or release trapped air in the
system. When the coolant begins to escape, connect the heater outlet hose.
Fill the radiator until the coolant is between the cap seal in the filler
neck to 38mm (1-1/2 inches) below the cap seal. Install radiator cap.
Start engine, warm up, shut off engine. Allow engine to cool, remove radiator
cap and check coolant level. Fill as required.
With degas bottle, fill the cooling system by installing all drain plugs and
close the radiator draincock. Fill the degas bottle until the coolant level
stabilizes at the top hose of the degas bottle. Start engine, warm up, shut
off engine. Allow engine to cool. Verify that the level is within the fill
range on the bottle.
Valve Cover and Gasket, 5.0L
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Description Tool Number
Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A
Left Side Valve Cover
Removal
Remove crankcase ventilation tube (6758) from valve cover.
If equipped with air conditioning, remove serpentine drive belt (8620) and
compressor-to-bracket bolts and position out of way.
Disconnect radio ignition interference capacitor (18801), electrical
connector and coil wire from coil.
Disconnect electrical connector and vacuum harness from EGR vacuum regulator
solenoid (9J459).
Disconnect electrical connector and vacuum harness from secondary air
injection vacuum regulator solenoid (9S448).
Remove nut from ignition coil mounting bracket to exhaust manifold stud and
two nuts for coil mounting bracket and remove coil and bracket.
Disconnect spark plug wires from spark plugs (12405) by grasping, twisting
and pulling the molded cap using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
Position wires out of way.
Unclip spark plug wires from valve cover and position wires out of way.
Remove clips securing wiring harness to valve cover and position wiring
harness out of way.
Remove valve cover attaching bolts and remove valve cover.
Installation
CAUTION: Do not use solutions such as brake cleaner, carburetor cleaner, etc.,
as these solutions can leave a residue on the machined surfaces. Use only a
cleaner which meets or exceeds Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A, such as Metal
Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent.
NOTE: Be sure to position gasket so that chamfered edge and stamping are
facing up.
Clean and inspect gasket surfaces. Inspect the gasket sealing surface for
damage and distortion due to overtightening of the bolts. Repair and
straighten as required. Place the new valve cover gaskets (6584) on the
cylinder head sealing surface.
Follow removal procedure in reverse order. Tighten valve cover attaching
bolts to 16-20 Nm (12-15 lb-ft).
To install serpentine drive belt, refer to belt routing decal.
Right Side Valve Cover
Removal
Remove upper intake manifold (9424). Refer to Intake Manifold, Upper removal
procedure in the In-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
Remove EGR valve.
Remove positive crankcase ventilation valve (PCV valve) (6A666) from valve
cover.
Remove clips securing wiring harness to valve cover and position wiring
harness out of way.
Disconnect spark plug wires from spark plugs by grasping, twisting and
pulling the molded cup using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
Unclip spark plug wires from valve cover and position wires out of way.
Remove valve cover attaching bolts and remove valve cover.
Installation
CAUTION: Do not use solutions such as brake cleaner, carburetor cleaner, etc.
, as these solutions can leave a residue on the machined surfaces. Use only a
cleaner which meets or exceeds Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A, such as Metal
Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent.
NOTE: Be sure to position gasket so that chamfered edge and stamping are
facing up.
Clean and inspect gasket surfaces. Inspect the gasket sealing surface for
damage and distortion due to overtightening of the bolts. Repair and
straighten as required. Place the new valve cover gaskets on the cylinder
head sealing surface.
Follow removal procedure in reverse order. Tighten valve cover attaching
bolts to 16-20 Nm (12-15 lb-ft).
To install serpentine drive belt, refer to belt routing decal
>Whats the procedure for changing the badly leaking valve cover gaskets on my
>1990 F-150 5.0l? I am fairly good with a wrench but I have never tackled
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
>-Dave