Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / December 2006

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

How to shop for tires?

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
cubey2600@gmail.com - 11 Dec 2006 04:03 GMT
Hi all!

I'm the fairly new owner of a 1997 Ford Econoline 150 aftermarket
conversion van (as of March 2006). It's actually my first vehicle, so
I'm not too experienced on the subject of tire buying yet.

When I bought it, it needed two new tires so I went with what I could
afford at the time, some SL rated ones (as opposed to XL) from Wal-Mart
for $50 each, bought around April 2006. They've been good tires to me
thus far but I'm planning on doing some long distance traveling
starting mid-next year, pulling a 16' single axel travel trailer, so
I'm wanting to keep XL rated tires on the van for the long distance
towing to be safe. I've done a fair bit of highway driving on them
(without towing) and haven't really had a noticabe problem yet with
them, however there's been minimal driving in the rain and zero driving
in snow.

I'm at a loss in being able to tell the real difference in tires aside
from sizes and SL vs XL rating. I just don't see how a $100+ tire can
be much better than the $64 Uniroyal Liberator A/T (XL rated) from
Wal-Mart. Is there REALLY any big difference in more expensive tires
and if so, what would they be? I know many factors are there such as
road gripping and durability matters, among other things, but I can't
really afford to buy the top of the line tire at nearly $150 each
(according to Wal-Mart prices). Some might ask why I'm going with
Wal-Mart. I have a very good reason for this, there are about 1,500
Wal-Mart stores with Tire & Lube centers where you can get road hazard
warrenty coverage taken care of. This is very important if you're 1,000
miles away from the place you bought the tires from and need to make a
warrenty claim on them.

The $50 SL rated tires I have on there right now seem perfectly fine to
me (except the lower rating). They're not excessivley noisy, I don't
notice any control or breaking problems, even when I towed the travel
trailer back 60 miles from where I bought it from (of course, I took it
very slow and easy as I had never towed anything before). The van
barely noticed the trailer back there. A friend of mine who went along
when I picked up the trailer was suprised when I said the cruise
control was on while towing, because it was shifting and accelerating
so well, and the road was fairly to moderately hilly but not curvey
much (state & US highways).

If anyone has had any experience; good or bad; with the Uniroyal tires
mentioned above I'd like to hear about it. Also I would like to hear
any recommendations in tire shopping. The tire size the van takes is
235/75R/15 by the way. As I said, I am looking to buy XL from now on.
The SL thing was just because I was strapped for cash at the time,
having just bought the van, paid the sales tax (10%!!!) registration,
insurance and all that. I figured new SL rated tires would be safer
than worn out XL rated ones in the long run.
Joe - 11 Dec 2006 04:31 GMT
> Hi all!
>
> If anyone has had any experience; good or bad; with the Uniroyal tires
> mentioned above I'd like to hear about it. Also I would like to hear
> any recommendations in tire shopping. The tire size the van takes is
> 235/75R/15 by the way.

My recommendation is to go to an independent tire dealer and see what they
have.  They're the cheap end fo the spectrum, and that'll give you an idea
how much extra you're paying for a name-brand tire.  I think $64 for a tire
in that size is pretty cheap.  That may be about the cheapest around.

Under no circumstances would I pay a lot more in order to feel like I got a
better quality tire if there's no evidence other than the price. The ratings
are right there on the tire - I just read 'em.  tirerack.com has a lot of
good tech info on them, and sometimes consumer reports will compare them
head-to-head.

For trailering, you want a stiff sidewall, and you can help yourself some by
running at the max inflation (also on the tire).
cubey2600@gmail.com - 11 Dec 2006 04:58 GMT
> My recommendation is to go to an independent tire dealer and see what they
> have.  They're the cheap end fo the spectrum, and that'll give you an idea
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> For trailering, you want a stiff sidewall, and you can help yourself some by
> running at the max inflation (also on the tire).

These are the specs on the $64 one from Wal-Mart:

Make: Uniroyal Liberator A/T
Type: Light Truck/SUV-On-Off Road
Sidewall Cosmetics: ORWL
Temperature Rating: B
Traction: A
Speed Rating: S (112 mph)
Load Index: 108 (2205 lbs.)
Weather: All Season
M+S: Y
Load Range: XL
Description: All-Terrain
Price: $63.66

That seems fairly good unless I'm mistaken. Here are the specs on a
more expensive one also available from Wal-mart:

Make: Uniroyal Laredo AWT
Type: Light Truck-Standard
Sidewall Cosmetics: RAISED WHITE LETTERS
Temperature Rating: B
Traction: B
Speed Rating: S (112 mph)
Load Index: 108 (2205 lbs.)
Weather: All-Season
M+S: Y
Load Range: XL
Description: THIS HIGH-QUALITY, ALL-TERRAIN TIRE HELPS CONQUER OFF-ROAD
CHALLENGES AND TAME HIGHWAYS. SO TAKE YOUR PICK.
Price: $86.64

The more expensive one actually has a LOWER traction rating than the
cheaper one. States high quality, where as the other doesn't say any
"quality". Hence my confusion in tire shopping.

Here is another, but it's getting up there in price a bit...

Make: BF Goodrich Radial Long Trail T/A
Type: Light Truck-Standard
Sidewall Cosmetics: RAISED WHITE LETTERS
Temperature Rating: B
Traction: A
Speed Rating: T (118 mph)
Load Index: 108 (2205 lbs.)
Weather: All-Season
M+S: Y
Load Range: XL
Description: Long on performance. Long on mileage. What it is: Our
highest mileage, best-riding all-season light truck tire. Original
equipment on many leading pickups and SUVs. Who it's for: Pickup, jeep
and SUV owners looking for an excellent replacement for their original
equipment all-season tires, with an emphasis on long tread life.
Price: $92.22

Doesn't seem much better than the $63.66 Unioryal above, unless the
long tread life is true. I've read reviews on DiscountTire.com of ones
they sell and the opinions on tread life of a single tire can vary
greatly by each consumer. Some say a certain tire lasts barely 30k
miles when it's a 60k mile tire while others say they're good past
60k... so it's very confusing.
David M - 11 Dec 2006 05:17 GMT
On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 20:58:55 -0800, cubey2600 rearranged some electrons to
form:

> so it's very confusing.

Tire construction can vary greatly among 'equivalent' sidewall letter
grades.  The ride quality of a $60 tire is probably not going to be as
good as an $80 tire.  You also didn't post the treadwear grades for each
of your selections... although not an absolute indicator of quality, it is
a guideline to look at.

The condition of vehicle the tire is mounted on will also have a big
impact on tire life... if the wheels are not aligned or the shocks or
suspension components are worn out, it will make quick work of a new set
of tires.

Signature

David M  (dmacchiarolo)
http://home.triad.rr.com/redsled
T/S 53
sled351 Linux 2.4.18-14  has been up 1 day 1:16

cubey2600@gmail.com - 11 Dec 2006 05:39 GMT
> Tire construction can vary greatly among 'equivalent' sidewall letter
> grades.  The ride quality of a $60 tire is probably not going to be as
> good as an $80 tire.  You also didn't post the treadwear grades for each
> of your selections... although not an absolute indicator of quality, it is
> a guideline to look at.

Websites tend to not give every single detail, unfortunately.

> The condition of vehicle the tire is mounted on will also have a big
> impact on tire life... if the wheels are not aligned or the shocks or
> suspension components are worn out, it will make quick work of a new set
> of tires.

Yes, I know those are factors. I had to have a non-adjustable (OEM)
shim replaced with an adjustable one in order to get an alignment when
I bought it. The mechanic said that it have have come out of the
factory out of alignment, because it has a very tough front end that's
hard to tear up/knock out of alignment. I recently had the mechanic
drive the van because I was noticing a possible wandering/loose
steering wheel problem. He said it was handling fine and the steering
was fine. It was just my imagination. I asked him how the
shocks/suspension felt and he said it was pretty good. To quote him
about how it handles, he said "for what it is, it's pretty good"
meaning for being such a large vehicle, being 10 years old with over
100k miles, it handles well.

The only thing he commented on was the slightly slow shift (and
noticable shake) of the transmission when accelerating after a stop
light. It seems to not do that so much if I turn off overdrive, which
is what you're supposed to do for towing, but I tried out driving with
overdrive off without towing, driving a usual in-town route I take and
it seemed to shift better. Unless it's just my imagionation again.

Ahem, sorry, getting off topic. Anyway, he said the suspension was
good, it didn't bounce excessively after bumps. I had the alignment
done earlier this year so it should be good for a long time. Brakes
will probably be the next thing I have done after 2 new tires here in
the next week or two. The rotors need resurfacing (there is noticable
shaking when the brakes are applied) and the pads of course will need
replacing as well. When I had it on the shop back in April for the
alignment/shim replacement, they said the pads were about 50% still
good, so it's not a big rush to get them done yet since I'm not doing
any towing yet and I'm not an agressive driver so I don't apply my
brakes accessively, I let the engine do at least 40% of the braking
when coming up to a stop or a turn by taking my foot off the gas a
while before I get to it which helps extend the life of the brakes.

Gah, got off topic again. *lol*

Back to tires... there is one at Sam's Club that sounds good. It's a BF
Goodrich "commercial" tire for $83.53 each that seems to have good
reviews on E-series vans:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=Commercial
+T%2FA


I may go back and look at what Sam's Club has in stock.I like to
physically inspect something expensive I'm buying as opposed to seeing
a photo of it on a website. They don't have much in the way of
235/75/15 in stock though.
Whitelightning - 11 Dec 2006 17:16 GMT
My two cents worth.
You are making a judgement on the low end tires you bought after less than 6
months on the truck.
As far as I am concerned, SL or XL makes next to nothing difference when on
a truck, they are still P metric, key here being the P with stands for
passenger car, as opposed to LT which stands for Light Truck. People
gravatate to them because P rated advertise higher mileage warranty, and
lower price, and because they have softer sidewalls (which is why they dont
handle the heat) they ride better.  Once the P metric starts being stressed
with weight and heat they fail faster than an LT because they were not
designed to handle loads 24X7.  Comparing ratings of  P metric to LT tires
is comparing apples to oranges.
And Goodyear will tell you as will Michlin if you ask them that a P metrics
load rating in pounds is 20% less whaen used on an LT vehicle carrying loads
regularly.  I've never liked this fact, I feel the rating should be that of
the lesser amount.  I've known people with station wagons that loaded and
them and used them like a truck, with the subsquent tire issues from the
weight and heat.
I also know that warranty can be voided if the manufacturer believes the
tires have been abused, and over loading the design is considered abuse.
As to Wally World, I would ganer a bet that there are more Goodyear, or
Firestone or what have you tire dealerships  than wally world shops. also
consider the level of expertise you are dealing with at a Wally world,, and
what they pay.  People who truly know what they are doing are not going to
work for wally's wages.

Whitelightning
cubey2600@gmail.com - 11 Dec 2006 19:47 GMT
I decided to go with BFGoodrich Radial Long Trail T/A's (LT, not P):
http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/navigate.do?dest=5&item=176995

Reviews & ratings on TireRack for that line of tires:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=Radial+Lon
g+Trail+T%2FA


Sam's also has P-rated ones in-stock locally for about $10 less each
but obviously LT are a better choice for heavy duty application. The
tires will be delivered to the local Sam's Club (shipping included in
price) in about 5-10 days so I'll just have $18 total installation plus
tax added on. Not a bad deal all for these tires. It was more than I
wanted to pay but they should last a good long time with proper
maintaince and give me excllent safety and performance.
Rowbotth - 16 Dec 2006 19:48 GMT
On the great LT  v/s P rating, the P tires give a softer ride and do not
bounce so much.  Yet another reason why they are so popular.

Safety wise, it is good to put the LT tires on a truck or van.  The ride
is another reminder that you are not driving a Ferrari so you should
adjust your driving behaviour accordingly.  Also, if you ever do decide
to use the van for hauling something, the tires will not let you down.

Just my $0.02.

HR.
================

> My two cents worth.
> You are making a judgement on the low end tires you bought after less than 6
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>
> Whitelightning
Jeff Strickland - 13 Dec 2006 00:12 GMT
The ratings on tires deal with several issues, but SPEED is perhaps the most
important. You have two issues, speed and load. since you are driving a van,
you can get tires rated to withstand lower speeds, but need to find tires
that have a higher load rating. I have a BMW, so I look for high speeds and
low load ratings.

Take a look at www.tirerack.com and www.tires.com. These are two competing
companies that deal in tires, both have very good explanations of what the
tire ratings are, and you can decide for yourself which ratings are
important to your driving requiremnts. Once you understand the ratings, you
can shop price.

> Hi all!
>
[quoted text clipped - 46 lines]
> insurance and all that. I figured new SL rated tires would be safer
> than worn out XL rated ones in the long run.
Joe - 14 Dec 2006 04:34 GMT
> The ratings on tires deal with several issues, but SPEED is perhaps the
> most important.

Speed is completely unimportant if you're not going to drive over about 120
mph.  Most folks don't do much trailering or hauling things at those kinds
of speeds. When I am shopping for truck tires, I ignore it completely.
Jeff Strickland - 14 Dec 2006 23:58 GMT
>> The ratings on tires deal with several issues, but SPEED is perhaps the
>> most important.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> kinds of speeds. When I am shopping for truck tires, I ignore it
> completely.

If you had read all of my post you would see that I would ignore this as
well in this particular application. Unless the OP buy tires rated at 87mph,
or other low number, he will be in good shape. I would buy speed rated tires
that fall in the range of about 112mph for a van. sure, the van will never
get to 112, but it may reasonably maintain the next lower max rating for
miles on end.

Just because a vehicle will not attain the highest speed rating doesn not
negate that notion that speed is among the most important qualities that are
rated. One needs to buy a speed rating that they will never attain, not the
one they will cruise down the highway at the rated speed. After one selects
the speed rating that suits their need, then they must look next at the load
rating. The trick here is to buy the load rating that exceeds by a small
margin the max load of the vehicle itself.
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.