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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / January 2007

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Valve to Drain Fuel from Tanks

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Jim G - 23 Jan 2007 19:16 GMT
I'd like to be able to easily drain fuel from my '92 F-150 in order to use
the fuel in my generator and lawn mower. The truck gets very few miles and
just sits there most of the year. I'd like to use its two tanks as backup
fuel storage. I'd also like to periodically drain older gas and replace it
with fresh.

Is there a drain kit or a simple T that I can put in the line somewhere,
maybe near the fuel filter? Siphoning may be an option although I've tried a
simple hand pump device without success. It just would not draw the fuel.
I've successfully used a Flotec pump and a drill but this works only once,
then the pump has to be replaced.

Jim G.
djdave - 23 Jan 2007 23:06 GMT
Siphoning is a good option. Restrictors and anti-siphoning baffles may
be an issue, but if they arent get a jiggler siphon, or see below:
I find myself draing fuel tanks quite often, my best way of pulling a
vacuum for siphoning is with one of those squeeze bulb kerosene pumps
and some rubber hose. There is 1 size hose that fits on the plastic
pump inlet, and one that fits in. Both sizes are nice and snug, I use
the smaller hose for gasoline and the larger for diesel.

If you are storing fuel for over 6 months, add fuel stabil.

I have 4 generators, and about 10 gas operated emergency water pumps.
I add sta-bil and store them for 2 years at a time. its recommended
for 1 year, but i never had an issue. After 2 years, I change the gas
and run it in my pickup truck.

>I'd like to be able to easily drain fuel from my '92 F-150 in order to use
>the fuel in my generator and lawn mower. The truck gets very few miles and
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
>Jim G.
Ford Tech - 24 Jan 2007 03:38 GMT
> I'd like to be able to easily drain fuel from my '92 F-150 in order to use
> the fuel in my generator and lawn mower. The truck gets very few miles and
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Jim G.

If you really wanted too, you could put an inline-T in the fuel line down on
the frame rail after the pump, and then put a shut off valve after that on
the outlet of the T, so that you can use the trucks fuel pump to pump the
gas out for you.

Just make sure you buy a good reputable ball valve so that it seals, and
wont leak, and use good hose clamps on the T-fitting. Then you can zip tie
the valve to the frame and just cut the tie and pull it down when you want
gas. And like the other gentleman said, use Stabil to keep the fuel fresh
and from gumming up your system in the truck and equipment.

Ford Tech
Joe - 24 Jan 2007 04:21 GMT
>> I'd like to be able to easily drain fuel from my '92 F-150 in order to
>> use the fuel in my generator and lawn mower. The truck gets very few
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> Ford Tech

This is a workable solution. Ford uses those hard plastic lines, but you
could find a tubing tee that would fit that.  I actually cut and spliced one
on time.  The problem with this scheme is really the outlet valve.  It's not
really safe enough just to have a valve hanging there that's shut.  You need
to plug it off as well.

Another way that I've seen is to turn on the fuel pump (using the fuel pump
test pigtail or whatever) and pump all the fuel out through the fuel rail
pressure test connection.  It's a schrader valve on most cars, but a Ford is
a little different.  My fuel pressure gauge has a pressure bleed on it that
will do the job. You might prefer something a little bigger than that.
Ford Tech - 24 Jan 2007 06:20 GMT
>>> I'd like to be able to easily drain fuel from my '92 F-150 in order to
>>> use the fuel in my generator and lawn mower. The truck gets very few
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> It's not really safe enough just to have a valve hanging there that's
> shut.  You need to plug it off as well.

I thought about that too after I hit the send button.. LOL But that isnt
that hard, cause they make plugs for vacuum lines and stuff, so you could
feasibly fashion a plug out of a short piece of hose and a rubber vacuum
plug to seal it up when not in use. Also that way you wouldnt have the
outlet side of the valve open to get dirt and other crap in there. The thing
I was thinking about here was that maybe the pump would create enough
suction during the initial prime that it would keep flowing after the pcm
kicked the pump off. I know there is a check valve to keep fuel from flowing
out of the rail and back into the tank, but I dont know if it would restrict
it enough that you would have to keep the fuel pump going to keep the flow
moving. It would also require taking the gas cap off to allow for air to
take up the space in the tank.

> Another way that I've seen is to turn on the fuel pump (using the fuel
> pump test pigtail or whatever) and pump all the fuel out through the fuel
> rail pressure test connection.  It's a schrader valve on most cars, but a
> Ford is a little different.  My fuel pressure gauge has a pressure bleed
> on it that will do the job. You might prefer something a little bigger
> than that.

I thought about that too, but I was thinking more on the lines of volume
instead of pressure. Plus it would almost require the engine running to do
this, or jumper the fuel pump relay.

Basically what I would suggest, is keeping a couple of 5-10gal gas cans in
the garage or shed (stabil added), and when you want to drive the truck, put
just enough gas in to go where you need to, and when you want to use your
other power tools, put the gas in that you need. To me that would be the
easiest resolution to your conundrum...

Ford Tech
Steve Barker - 24 Jan 2007 16:44 GMT
In this scenario, how ya going to make the pump run?

Signature

Steve Barker

> If you really wanted too, you could put an inline-T in the fuel line down
> on the frame rail after the pump, and then put a shut off valve after that
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Ford Tech
Ford Tech - 24 Jan 2007 17:44 GMT
Well in this scenario, you would just have to either jumper the fuel relay,
or turn key on and let it run. Although I am not sure if the pump would shut
off without seeing the actual engine run.

> In this scenario, how ya going to make the pump run?
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>>
>> Ford Tech
Steve Barker - 24 Jan 2007 17:52 GMT
As a "Ford Tech" you should know the pump only runs for 3 seconds without
oil pressure.  And I don't think the engine would run with a gaping hole in
the fuel line.  Soooooooo, I guess jumpering the relay would be the only
option.  I would "opt" , as another reply suggested, to just keep some gas
in a can for the small eq.

Signature

Steve Barker

> Well in this scenario, you would just have to either jumper the fuel
> relay, or turn key on and let it run. Although I am not sure if the pump
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>>>
>>> Ford Tech
samstone@aol.com - 24 Jan 2007 18:08 GMT
>I'd like to be able to easily drain fuel from my '92 F-150 in order to use
>the fuel in my generator and lawn mower. The truck gets very few miles and
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
>Jim G.
Use the truck to go get gas in a proper container.  The truck will be better off
from the use.
Jim G - 26 Jan 2007 14:16 GMT
Great responses, thanks!

I think what I may do is pull the line off the rear of the fuel filter and
jumper the relay to get the pumps to empty the tanks. I may do this once a
year just to get the old gas out (or if I need gas for my generator).

Stabil is also a good idea.

Thanks again.

>>I'd like to be able to easily drain fuel from my '92 F-150 in order to use
>>the fuel in my generator and lawn mower. The truck gets very few miles and
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> better off
> from the use.
KjunRaven - 27 Jan 2007 00:59 GMT
> Great responses, thanks!
>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>> better off
>> from the use.

to keep pump running without eng running = run 12v+ jumper to pink wire
on inertia cutoff switch......to collect fuel from fuel rail without
proper guage setup = purchase inner wheel air extension for dually setup
($5, NAPA) its about 8 inchs long and has same threads as fuel pres. test
port on fuel rail. cut off 'male' end and splice as long a piece of
3/16" fuel line on as you want.............BTW: will need to remove valve
core from pres. test port with normal valve core tool.
 
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