Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / February 2007

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

Manual hubs

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
russschell@gmail.com - 13 Feb 2007 22:38 GMT
One more time, one more question... then I'll leave you guys alone.

On this '87 F-150 I bought last fall there are manual hubs, a 4 speed,
and a transfer case shifter. Transmission and shifter seem to work
fine. The hubs are easy to switch in and out of "Free" and "Lock"
mode.

When I drive it in 4WD in the snow (like we seem to have here every
day) I get an occasional "clunk" from the front (not in the front
differential I don't think) and occasionally hear a tick-tick-tick
sound that almost immediately disappears.

Ideas?

Thanks.
Marlin Singer - 14 Feb 2007 00:32 GMT
> One more time, one more question... then I'll leave you guys alone.
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> Thanks.

First thing to check would be U-joints. U-joints are notorious for
making clicking sounds when bad.
Spdloader - 14 Feb 2007 00:58 GMT
You may have a hub slipping its main drive cog. Higher than normal pressure
in the front end, like using 4wd on a dry surface forces the parts apart by
overcoming the spring tension in the hub. The clicking sound you hear may be
from the hub gears slipping while the splines are re-aligning. The clicking
stops when the hub finally meshes again with the hub or the stub shaft.
This is most common in the right front side on the Dana-44 IFS front end in
your truck, but can happen in either side.
Also, the stub shaft in that same side can strip the splines. Don't let it
go, checking it out early could save you a little money.

Spdloader

>> One more time, one more question... then I'll leave you guys alone.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> First thing to check would be U-joints. U-joints are notorious for making
> clicking sounds when bad.
Steve Barker - 14 Feb 2007 00:43 GMT
Sounds like you might have a dry axle U-joint

Signature

Steve Barker

> One more time, one more question... then I'll leave you guys alone.
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> Thanks.
samstone@aol.com - 14 Feb 2007 02:50 GMT
>One more time, one more question... then I'll leave you guys alone.
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
>Thanks.
worn u-joints on the front axles are  a common cause of that clunk.
grab ahold of the axle ( one at a time  , each side ) with a big pair
of channel locks and twist in both rotational directions and see if you cant spot
some slop in the u-joints. You won't  hurt anything so use some force.
Steve Barker - 14 Feb 2007 04:05 GMT
all you really have to do is put the transfer case in 2wd, lock in the hubs
and then twist the drive shaft.  You'll see the slop in the ujoints right
away.

Signature

Steve Barker

>>One more time, one more question... then I'll leave you guys alone.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> cant spot
> some slop in the u-joints. You won't  hurt anything so use some force.
samstone@aol.com - 14 Feb 2007 08:04 GMT
>all you really have to do is put the transfer case in 2wd, lock in the hubs
>and then twist the drive shaft.  You'll see the slop in the ujoints right
>away.
me ?   no thanks , i'll do it my way  -- you  do it yours
russschell@gmail.com - 14 Feb 2007 16:53 GMT
On Feb 14, 3:04 am, samst...@aol.com wrote:
> >all you really have to do is put the transfer case in 2wd, lock in the hubs
> >and then twist the drive shaft.  You'll see the slop in the ujoints right
> >away.
>
> me ?   no thanks , i'll do it my way  -- you  do it yours

Thanks to everyone. SO, I guess the answers are;
1) No 4WD until we get it checked out
2) 2WD is OK (w/ hubs unlocked of course)
3) This is gonna' hurt! (the wallet)
Whitelightning - 15 Feb 2007 01:38 GMT
> Thanks to everyone. SO, I guess the answers are;
> 1) No 4WD until we get it checked out
> 2) 2WD is OK (w/ hubs unlocked of course)
> 3) This is gonna' hurt! (the wallet)

It will only hurt if you cant do the work yourself.
Parts to plan on,
Axle U-joints, inner wheel bearing seals, inner spindle bearings and seals.
Special tool needed, the correct wheel bearing socket for your application.
jack and jack stands.
Remove lock hub (6 allen head screws or torx bits)
remove wheel bearing lock nut, lock plate and wheel bearing adjusting nut.
remove brake rotor assembly.
Remove 6-8 nuts and lock cones holding the spindle to the spindle
housing.mark the
spindle so that you install it exactly as it came off.  If there is a metal
"gasket"
between the spindle and the housing mark its orientation, usually its a
tapered shim.
slide axle out of housing, replace u-joint as you would on a drive shaft..
Clean and repack bearings, replace inner wheel bearing seal
Inner spindle bearing is a needle bearing assembly in the spindle that
supports the axle
This bearing and its seal are often forgotten and neglected.  Napa makes a
tool that you
can use to grease this bearing with out complete disassembly, you pull the
lock hub off
and it threads on the end of spindle, and you  use a grease gun to repack
bearing, it forces
grease down the inside of the spindle over the axle shaft. Just like with
bearing buddies
on a trailer pump till clean grease comes out..
figure an 1 to 1.5 hours per side using hand tools the first time.  I used
to go through
the entire bearing process to include clean and inspect the inner spindle
bearing on
every 4X4 I did a brake job on.  with practice its 45 minutes per side.

Whitelightning
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.