Matt,
There is no big trick to changing oil.  Just make sure the engine is
warmed up to normal operating temperature before draining the oil.
You will need the proper sized oil filter wrench.   It is difficult to
use the band type oil filter wrench on the 4.0 engine.
I recommend you wear a pair of rubber gloves when handling the oil.
Helps keep hands cleaner.
Currently, I am using Royal Purple synthetic oil (5w30) and a Mobil 1
oil filter.

Just do it!

I like to change the oil with the engine hot, theory is that more of the
inevitable goo that collects in the bottom of the oil pan will be washed
out.  I don't know if that's true or not, but that's the theory.

If you do it this way, make very sure to not situate your arm so that
when removing the drain plug you get a nice stream of 200-degree 10W30
in your armpit.  There are things that suck worse than that, but most
people don't encounter them on a daily basis.  Just let the drain plug
drop into the oil pan and fish it out with a magnet later; or better
yet, get one of those containers with a screen on top that lets you
transport the oil back to your FLAPS for recycling (and also
conveniently catches the hot drain plug so you're not tempted to try to
hold onto it.)

Make sure you use a good quality filter like Wix or Purolator.  None of
that orange can crap!  You'll need a filter wrench to get the old one
loose; I like the ones that look like great big Channellock pliers.
Just install the new filter with your bare hands and follow the
installation directions on the package (usually something like "1/2 turn
after gasket contacts base") overtorquing the filter accomplishes
nothing other than making it harder to remove next time around.

If your engine allows, prefilling the oil filter with oil will help the
engine fill with oil much faster on the first startup.  This only works
on engines where the oil filter is mounted base-up or close to it however.

If your drain plug uses a gasket, you may want to get a new one.  I
generally just flip them over and reuse, but you're *supposed* to use a
new one every time, and who knows how long someone like me has been
changing your oil <G>  And then there's the idiot factor... I ran a
piece cut from a cardboard box top as the gasket on the drain plug of my
Porsche for the first sump full of oil it had in my care... because the
PO had no gasket on there at all!  I guess that explains the stain in
the driveway...  (pik-a-nut box tops actually work surprisingly well for
emergency gasket paper.  No, that isn't an actual recommendation or
endorsement.  Yes, I have done some "fixes" I'm not proud of.)

If you've already successfully flushed the cooling system an oil change
should actually be less challenging.

good luck,

nate

yeah, synthetic is good to use, that is what i use in my engine, but
if you really want to see full results with the synthetic oils, the
engine is just one part of the drivetrain, so you might think of
synthetic oils for the differential and transmission too. so with new
oil, you should change the filter too, and before you screw the new
filter to the engine, fill it up about halfway with the clean oil so
oil can get right to where it needs to be in less time that just
having it all in the pan, and also, to make sure you have a good seal
on the oil filter, use your finger, and spread a little oil on the
gasket, thats about it! very easy
~Mike