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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / September 2007

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94 Bronco - Eddy Bauer Power windows?

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Oren - 12 Sep 2007 00:19 GMT
My 1994 Bronco has power windows. The driver side window started
acting up and finally the passenger side is failing.  I can put the
windows down by pushing the button/switch. They need a helping hand to
get them up. The window motor operates erratically.

I pulled the door panel (driver side) for a peek inside. Nothing has
slipped or come apart. All seems to be connected and nothing seems to
bind.

I suspect the motor is bad?

Do I drill the rivets ( is that what the correct term is) out to
remove the motor or is there another tool used to remove the window
motor?

How is a new  window motor installed. Rivets, bolts and nuts?

I'm handy, but this is a first time for a window motor. I'm sure they
were easier in earlier years.  I want to avoid the dealer cost is
possible.

Thanks!

--
Oren

..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..
samstone@aol.com - 12 Sep 2007 02:34 GMT
>My 1994 Bronco has power windows. The driver side window started
>acting up and finally the passenger side is failing.  I can put the
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>--
>Oren

Sounds more like a mech. binding than a
motor/electrical problem.
Oren - 13 Sep 2007 16:56 GMT
>Sounds more like a mech. binding than a
>motor/electrical problem.  

I didn't see any binding when I removed the door panel.

Looking at parts on line; it appears, the motor has a "gear box"
attached. I'm  thinking a gear stripped (nylon?).

Funny how both windows are failing at about the same time.

Thanks.

--
Oren

..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..
Jeff Strickland - 12 Sep 2007 02:44 GMT
> My 1994 Bronco has power windows. The driver side window started
> acting up and finally the passenger side is failing.  I can put the
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> Thanks!

I just did a window regulator on a BMW, and all of the stuff I was
interested in was bolted together. There was no need to break rivets. If you
have to break a rivet, you should look at what the replacement parts look
like first.
Oren - 13 Sep 2007 17:06 GMT
>I just did a window regulator on a BMW, and all of the stuff I was
>interested in was bolted together. There was no need to break rivets. If you
>have to break a rivet, you should look at what the replacement parts look
>like first.

A little more reading, I found that yes two rivets in the door panel
need to be drilled with a 1/2" bit. They "conceal" two of the motor
bolts. The new motors I've seen online, don't show additional parts,
just the motor (no parts list). The drilled holes are to be primed and
painted to prevent rust

(BTW, are you from Atlanta - family in Tallahassee, FL or Bainbridge,
GA?)

--
Oren

..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..
Jeff Strickland - 15 Sep 2007 16:35 GMT
>>I just did a window regulator on a BMW, and all of the stuff I was
>>interested in was bolted together. There was no need to break rivets. If
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> (BTW, are you from Atlanta - family in Tallahassee, FL or Bainbridge,
> GA?)

The branches of my family tree extend into GA, but I'm not directly related
to anybody there. I'm in Calif.

> --
> Oren
>
> ..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in
> the photo..
asadi - 12 Sep 2007 04:03 GMT
> My 1994 Bronco has power windows. The driver side window started
> acting up and finally the passenger side is failing.  I can put the
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
> ..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in
> the photo..

I had a similar problem with my 89 E-150...all the dealer did was
'reposition' the motor, after that, I just used a rubber mallet.  You might
try that first.

john  of course, when my computer acts up, I smack the monitor...
 
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