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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / November 2007Oil Pressure Gauge Problem
Hello group, I'm posting for a friend since he doesn't have access to this group. Anyways, he has a 1999 Ranger w/ 4.0L engine, auto, and 4 wheel drive. His oil pressure gauge bounces around sporadically, at first we thought it was the sending unit. We replaced that and it still does it but not as much. When you are driving, the needle bounces a little in the center, when you come to a stop, it starts bouncing more and even bottoming out sometimes. While sitting there, if you put the car into park or neutral it stops bottoming out but goes back to bouncing a little in the center. Myself and my friend still think it is an electrical issue, but my friend took it to a ford dealer and they said he MIGHT have a blockage somewhere in the oil system, but they weren't sure and they wanted but 1,000 dollars to TRY to fix the problem. I might be wrong but if it was a blockage wouldn't the gauge read low all the time? I goes from regular pressure to no pressure back to regular pressure in a fraction of a second. Any thoughts??? Thanks, John In article <k1lZi.12191$if6.4340@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>, > Hello group, > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > Thanks, > John Unless someone has modified the oil pressure gauge circuit, your friends Ranger actually has an analog idiot light. It looks like a gauge from the drivers seat view but it really functions as a light would, i.e., either up or down. It's simple enough to remove the sending switch and connect a real gauge to see if it's the engine responsible for the erratic behavior or if it's in the electrical part. > In article > <k1lZi.12191$if6.4340@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>, [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > real gauge to see if it's the engine responsible for the erratic > behavior or if it's in the electrical part. Thanks for the reply, I wonder why ford wouldn't just put a light there instead of a gauge. I was thinking about hooking up just a regular oil pressure gauge to see what is going on. Any other thoughts, let me know. Thanks, John Could be a broken wire at the sending unit. You wrote that it got a little better when you replaced the unit, so the wire on the clip may be broken and just barely making contact. Or the clip itself may be bad. >> In article >> <k1lZi.12191$if6.4340@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>, [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > Thanks, > John In article <xxsZi.13253$if6.5267@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>, > > Unless someone has modified the oil pressure gauge circuit, your > > friends Ranger actually has an analog idiot light. It looks like [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > thinking about hooking up just a regular oil pressure gauge to see what is > going on. Any other thoughts, let me know. Did the replaced part look like this; http://partimages2.genpt.com/partimages/275875.jpg or more like this: http://partimages2.genpt.com/partimages/50899.jpg > In article > <xxsZi.13253$if6.5267@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>, [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > http://partimages2.genpt.com/partimages/50899.jpg The part looks like the first one. We just bought a real oil pressure gauge, haven't had time to hook it up yet, but I'll let you know what it shows. John John, I have a 2001 Ranger w/3.0L engine and mine did the exact same thing, I replaced the sending unit, no help. A little while later the valves started to tapping so I took it to Ford and they dropped the oil pan and found the oil screen on the oil pump was clogged. I also had them replace the gauge since it bounced so much it rapped around behind the post. Good luck Dave > Hello group, > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > Thanks, > John > Hello group, > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > When you are driving, the needle bounces a little in the center, when you > come to a stop, it starts bouncing more and even bottoming out sometimes. Boy, here's one of the greatest hits of Ford Usenet. I haven't heard this one in a while. It is true, as others have posted, that Ford decided to use a "fake" oil pressure gauge on many of their trucks. So when the gage "flickers" just pretend it's an oil light flickering and act accordingly. The truck's got very low oil pressure, and that's the problem. It's not the gauge. >> Hello group, >> [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > pretend it's an oil light flickering and act accordingly. The truck's got > very low oil pressure, and that's the problem. It's not the gauge. Yep, The truck sure does have low oil pressure, I put a real gauge on there and it only reads no more than 20 psi when the truck is warmed up and driving at 45mph. It reads less then 10psi at idle. John >>> Hello group, >>> [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > John You know what to do now, right? >>>> Hello group, >>>> [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > You know what to do now, right? 3 quarts of STP, right? ;-) I had a '64 Galaxy with a 352 from a '59 'Bird back in 1969 when I got out of the Air Force. The motor was a quickie replacement for the 390 that was in it that I blew up racing it. I was moving from Alabama to Detroit, and didn't have time to rebuild the 352, and the oil pressure was so bad when hot that the lifters would collapse. I drained the oil out and put in a quart of SAE40 and 4 quarts of STP, and drove it from Mobile to Detroit that way. Surprised that it made it, but it did. After finding a job there, I fixed it the correct way. SC Tom While we're on the topic, can anyone shed any light on the approximate "real"- i.e. numeric values of a Ford oil gauge that says only "normal"? Assuming, of course, that one has the appropriate pressure sender. > While we're on the topic, can anyone shed any light on the approximate > "real"- i.e. numeric values of a Ford oil gauge that says only > "normal"? Assuming, of course, that one has the appropriate pressure > sender. The value is a simple switch point just like the IDIOT light, I don't have the values handy, but the pressure sensor is a simple open/close switch. >The value is a simple switch point just like the IDIOT light, I don't have >the values handy, but the pressure sensor is a simple open/close switch. Restating the question- with the true pressure (resistive) sender, what would the approximate psi readings be for the "normal" range on an unmarked Ford OP gauge? For the record, I have the true pressure sensor, and the gauge behaves as it should (low at idle, rises with RPM). The idiot light sender is a normally open switch that closes at 4.5-7.5 psi and grounds a 20 ohm resistor that brings the gauge to about mid scale.
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