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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / December 2007heater too hot 2007 ford f-150
Hi Folks: This is under warrantee I suppose but I'm currions if this is an isolated issue. It's mostly an annoyance. With the temperature control at about the 9 o'clock position, the air is cold. at about 10 o'clock, it goes to full blast hot. It isn't any hotter if I crank it to 4PM. The fan works correctly. I'm assuming there is a diverter valve that shuts the coolant off from the heater core, that happens at about 9AM, but the air ducting isn't working at all. Maybe this is just a vacuum hose issue? Harry > Hi Folks: > This is under warrantee I suppose but I'm currions if this is an [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > just a vacuum hose issue? > Harry There is not a diverter valve, hot coolant always flow through the heater core. The air temperature is controlled solely by the position of the blend air door. It sounds like it is either partially blocked, incorrectly installed, or the control is not correct. Ed Just wondering what the AM and PM are all about I would bet that your blend door hinge is defective, or the control for the door. >Hi Folks: > This is under warrantee I suppose but I'm currions if this is an [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >just a vacuum hose issue? >Harry > Just wondering what the AM and PM are all about > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > - Show quoted text - HI! For the first time in many months, the temperature control started working, and worked for 2 days. Then it stuck on hot again. Sometimes it starts working when I accelerate hard. Harry On Dec 6, 10:05 pm, djdave <djd...@fake.com> wrote: > Just wondering what the AM and PM are all about > [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > - Show quoted text - HI! For the first time in many months, the temperature control started working, and worked for 2 days. Then it stuck on hot again. Sometimes it starts working when I accelerate hard. Harry The flap that controls the air mixture inside the heater box is driven by vacuum. Your flap is sticking. Me thinks you should visit your local dealership for warranty service. You could have a vac leak, but more likely a burr or other malady inside the heater. In any case, this is a job to tackle in the driveway on a 10-year old truck, but not a new one. I say, let the dealer take care of it. > The flap that controls the air mixture inside the heater box is driven by > vacuum. Nope, electric feedback servo motor assembly. > Your flap is sticking. Me thinks you should visit your local > dealership for warranty service. You could have a vac leak, Could have but that's not why his heater is not working correctly. > but more likely > a burr or other malady inside the heater. In any case, this is a job to > tackle in the driveway on a 10-year old truck, but not a new one. I say, let > the dealer take care of it. 10 year old truck? >> The flap that controls the air mixture inside the heater box is driven by >> vacuum. > > Nope, electric feedback servo motor assembly. DUH! I knew that. I don't know what I was thinking. My F150 makes LOADS of noise on the AM radio when the heater control is set to full hot or full cold -- if I set the heater to any place other than the limits, the radio is relatively noise (static) free. The headlights cause static on the raido as well. >> Your flap is sticking. Me thinks you should visit your local >> dealership for warranty service. You could have a vac leak, > > Could have but that's not why his heater is not working correctly. Okay Einstein, enlighten us. The trouble is not vacuum, sorry I said that it was. > >> The flap that controls the air mixture inside the heater box is driven by > >> vacuum. > > > > Nope, electric feedback servo motor assembly. > > DUH! I knew that. I doubt it. > I don't know what I was thinking. My F150 makes LOADS of noise on the AM > radio when the heater control is set to full hot or full cold -- if I set [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Okay Einstein, enlighten us. Oooh, name calling. Well, if the OP can have it at my shop on Friday morning, I'll take a look at it then. > The trouble is not vacuum, sorry I said that it was. Then again, the problem may well be a vacuum. I have yet to see any usefull suggestion from you. > I have yet to see any usefull suggestion from you. Ditto! Actually, I did offer a useful suggestion, I guess you missed it. >> I have yet to see any usefull suggestion from you. > > Ditto! > > Actually, I did offer a useful suggestion, I guess you missed it. All you do is ridicule. At least I suggested a $15 part where the option is for a $200 part. Maybe my circuit description left a bit to be desired, the parts I described are connected in the manner I stated, and are therefore able to be located by the person asking for help. > >> I have yet to see any usefull suggestion from you. > > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > All you do is ridicule. Far from true. > At least I suggested a $15 part where the option is for a $200 part. Maybe > my circuit description left a bit to be desired, the parts I described are > connected in the manner I stated, and are therefore able to be located by > the person asking for help. WTF does this have to do with the OPs heater? > >> I have yet to see any usefull suggestion from you. Useful. > > Ditto! > > > Actually, I did offer a useful suggestion, I guess you missed it. > > All you do is ridicule. Go here --> www.stayfree.com Look for their 'Tear Drier' and 'PantSorb' lines of napkins. Choose which is best for your unique situation. > At least I suggested a $15 part where the option is for a $200 part. Maybe > my circuit description left a bit to be desired, the parts I described are > connected in the manner I stated, and are therefore able to be located by > the person asking for help. A $15 vacuum motor? Toyota MDT in MO In article <1d493446-171e-426c-bc95-1ba1575a1d6d@n20g2000hsh.googlegroups.co m>, > > All you do is ridicule. > > Go here --> www.stayfree.com > > Look for their 'Tear Drier' and 'PantSorb' lines of napkins. Choose > which is best for your unique situation. BOLSCOM! Dude, your banter with Rags and Ian is starting to have an effect! > > At least I suggested a $15 part where the option is for a $200 part. Maybe > > my circuit description left a bit to be desired, the parts I described are > > connected in the manner I stated, and are therefore able to be located by > > the person asking for help. > > A $15 vacuum motor? Or; $215 for a $200 repair part. > In article > <1d493446-171e-426c-bc95-1ba1575a1...@n20g2000hsh.googlegroups.co [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > BOLSCOM! I had to look that one up. Perhaps Stayfree has a monitor wipe in their arsenal of absorbent napkin products :-) > Dude, your banter with Rags and Ian is starting to have an effect! I don't banter much with them, actually. I do enjoy reading them though. > > > At least I suggested a $15 part where the option is for a $200 part. Maybe > > > my circuit description left a bit to be desired, the parts I described are [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Or; $215 for a $200 repair part. Don't forget that anything over $30 labor for this job* is a total ripoff. * "this job" = any auto repair service ever mentioned on usenet Toyota MDT in MO
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