> On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 07:04:06 -0700 (PDT),
>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> Lugnut
thanks, Lugnut !
I was meticulous making
sure the filter o-ring was properly seated and that the old oring was
not reinstalled.
Yes, this is a last ditch effort to get it working properly. 167,000
on odometer seems correct. Pan was never off before (snapped off 4
screws).
UPDATE: I warmed up the engine, then disconnected the cooler line to
radiator and connected a hose to it leading to a plastic milk jug. In
OD, i revved the engine to about 4,000 then it started to pump out to
the jug--the fluid was so hot it melted right through the jug !
brown, filthy crap with gunk in it. did this pump out, refill 4 times
unitl fluid was somewhat clean. Now, it won't take off in OD or D,
but will in L. Once moving in L, I shift to OD and then it upshifts
to 4 and seems to drive OK. Reverse still kicks in around 1,500 RPM.
I may have either screwed something up and/or some valve got
contaminated? thanks for you help as always, Lugnut !
Whitelightning - 15 Apr 2008 21:47 GMT
I was meticulous making
sure the filter o-ring was properly seated and that the old oring was
not reinstalled.
Yes, this is a last ditch effort to get it working properly. 167,000
on odometer seems correct. Pan was never off before (snapped off 4
screws).
UPDATE: I warmed up the engine, then disconnected the cooler line to
radiator and connected a hose to it leading to a plastic milk jug. In
OD, i revved the engine to about 4,000 then it started to pump out to
the jug--the fluid was so hot it melted right through the jug !
brown, filthy crap with gunk in it. did this pump out, refill 4 times
unitl fluid was somewhat clean. Now, it won't take off in OD or D,
but will in L. Once moving in L, I shift to OD and then it upshifts
to 4 and seems to drive OK. Reverse still kicks in around 1,500 RPM.
I may have either screwed something up and/or some valve got
contaminated? thanks for you help as always, Lugnut !
Since this is a last ditch attempt, first ran a bottle of Transmission Flush
Solder Seal part number M1410TF and change the fluid again. Then
dump two bottles of a product called TransMedic by SolderSeal part
number MS3616.
This is not a stop leak product which means it isnt going to swell the seals
but a conditioner and I have had some luck with it.
Whitelightning