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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / April 2008

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95 ESCORT AUTO TRANS NOT PUMPING FLUID TO COOLER LINES...

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septicman@peoplepc.com - 14 Apr 2008 15:04 GMT
Instead of dropping the pan, I disconnect the cooling hose to the
radiator and pump out 3-4 quarts of dirty fluid.  This has worked fine
on all my cars.  Now, with a car I just bought, no fluid is pumping
out to the radiator.  I did drop the pan and change the filter.  The
fluid was a very dark brown.  Shifts in all gears, but car doesn't
move under 1,500 RPM.

Has anyone had any experience working on/fixing transmissions who
might offer suggestions?  Thanks!
lugnut - 14 Apr 2008 16:34 GMT
>Instead of dropping the pan, I disconnect the cooling hose to the
>radiator and pump out 3-4 quarts of dirty fluid.  This has worked fine
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>Has anyone had any experience working on/fixing transmissions who
>might offer suggestions?  Thanks!

I would drop the pan again while hoping I hadn't already
screwed the trans and make sure the filter seal was properly
in place and that the old seal had not been left in place.
Also, make sure the filter is completely seated.  If you are
not getting fluid, it is because the pump is bad, it is
sucking air around the filter seal or you do not have enough
fluid in it.  Was the trans working before or, are you
trying a last ditch effort to get it working, again?

Lugnut
septicman@peoplepc.com - 15 Apr 2008 14:53 GMT
> On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 07:04:06 -0700 (PDT),
>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> Lugnut

thanks, Lugnut !

I was meticulous making
sure the filter o-ring was properly seated and that the old oring was
not reinstalled.
Yes, this is a last ditch effort to get it working properly.  167,000
on odometer seems correct.  Pan was never off before (snapped off 4
screws).

UPDATE:  I warmed up the engine, then disconnected the cooler line to
radiator and connected a hose to it leading to a plastic milk jug.  In
OD, i revved the engine to about 4,000 then it started to pump out to
the jug--the fluid was so hot it melted right through the jug !
brown, filthy crap with gunk in it.  did this pump out, refill 4 times
unitl fluid was somewhat clean.  Now, it won't take off in OD or D,
but will in L.  Once moving in L, I shift to OD and then it upshifts
to 4 and seems to drive OK.  Reverse still kicks in around 1,500 RPM.
I may have either screwed something up and/or some valve got
contaminated?  thanks for you help as always, Lugnut !
Whitelightning - 15 Apr 2008 21:47 GMT
I was meticulous making
sure the filter o-ring was properly seated and that the old oring was
not reinstalled.
Yes, this is a last ditch effort to get it working properly.  167,000
on odometer seems correct.  Pan was never off before (snapped off 4
screws).

UPDATE:  I warmed up the engine, then disconnected the cooler line to
radiator and connected a hose to it leading to a plastic milk jug.  In
OD, i revved the engine to about 4,000 then it started to pump out to
the jug--the fluid was so hot it melted right through the jug !
brown, filthy crap with gunk in it.  did this pump out, refill 4 times
unitl fluid was somewhat clean.  Now, it won't take off in OD or D,
but will in L.  Once moving in L, I shift to OD and then it upshifts
to 4 and seems to drive OK.  Reverse still kicks in around 1,500 RPM.
I may have either screwed something up and/or some valve got
contaminated?  thanks for you help as always, Lugnut !

Since this is a last ditch attempt, first ran a bottle of Transmission Flush
Solder Seal part number M1410TF and change the fluid again. Then
dump two bottles of a product called TransMedic by SolderSeal part
number MS3616.
This is not a stop leak product which means it isnt going to swell the seals
but a conditioner and I have had some luck with it.

Whitelightning

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