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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / June 2008Ranger Power Window Problem
I have a 1990 Ford Ranger with Power Windows. Today when I went to raise the driver's side window it would not go up. I heard a clicking sound as if something was slipping or not engaging. If I grabbed the window with one hand while holding the window in the up position I could pull the window up. I tried it again; the window goes down fine but makes a clicking noise when I try to raise it. One other thing that I mentioned. If I lower the window down about 70 % of the way and then remove my finger from the button the windows slowly slides down another inch or so. I removed the door panel and am looking around but can't see much I might need a mirror in there to look around. Any ideas? I guess the motor is fine, maybe the regulator or the window lift gear? Thanks > Any ideas? Bad window regulator? You should be able to replace it. I would suggest removing the door panel, once you do that, and watch it operate, the problem should be obvious. Sounds like it is time to replace the three plastic pucks inside the window regulator. Not too bad of a job. You will need to drill out the rivets which hold the regulator to the door. On my 1994 I had to drill a hole in the door to expose one of the bolts which hold the regulator in position. The pucks are available at better auto parts stores. >Sounds like it is time to replace the three plastic pucks inside the >window regulator. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >bolts which hold the regulator in position. >The pucks are available at better auto parts stores. Clay, Thanks for posting!! What are these pucks? I narrowed my window problems to the regulator. I can drill them out and replace. I'm not familiar with "pucks". Mine is the same problem as the OP, and I can replicate the window problem. Do I pull the regulator apart and install pucks? Switches and motors work:) > >Sounds like it is time to replace the three plastic pucks inside the > >window regulator. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > Do I pull the regulator apart and install pucks? Switches and motors > work:) Two years ago, I repaired both regulators in my 1994 Mazda B4000 (same as a Ranger). After removing the door panel, unplug connector, secure the window so it so it does not drop, remove the pop rivet holding the regulator motor, locate the third bold and drill a 1/2" hole. This is necessary to access the third mounting bolt. Unbolt the 3 regulator motor bolts. Remove the regulator motor. Remove the c-clip from the gear shaft. Use a pair of small needle nose pliers to squeeze the cover retaining pin and push it out. Remove the small gear and cover. Wipe up old grease. Inside you will find a large nylon gear. If the gear teeth are in good condition, you just need to replace the window regulator gear plugs. Make sure all broken bits are removed. Use some white lithium grease to lube the gear teeth and center shaft. Do not get any grease in the area where the plugs rest. Reassemble in reverse order. A 1" long 1/4" bolt with self locking nut will be used to replace the rivet. A washer should be used under the head of the bolt. Make sure to the bolt is on the panel side the nut is on the inside of the door or the panel will not properly. The Window Regulator Gear Plugs NAPA part number is 665-1524. The total to do two door was $17.38 plus tax. This was in 2006. After removing the door panel, unplug connector, secure the window so it so it does not drop, remove the pop rivet holding the regulator motor, locate the third bold and drill a 1/2" hole. This is necessary to access the third mounting bolt. Unbolt the 3 regulator motor bolts. Remove the regulator motor. Remove the c-clip from the gear shaft. Use a pair of small needle nose pliers to squeeze the cover retaining pin and push it out. Remove the small gear and cover. Wipe up old grease. Inside you will find a large nylon gear. If the gear teeth are in good condition, you just need to replace the window regulator gear plugs. Make sure all broken bits are removed. Use some white lithium grease to lube the gear teeth and center shaft. Do not get any grease in the area where the plugs rest. Reassemble in reverse order. A 1" long 1/4" bolt with self locking nut will be used to replace the rivet. A washer should be used under the head of the bolt. Make sure to the bolt is on the panel side the nut is on the inside of the door or the panel will not properly. The Window Regulator Gear Plugs NAPA part number is 665-1524. The total to do two door was $17.38 plus tax. On some vehicles, remove the door panel, and locate the motor bracket screws you will notice dimples in the door inner panel. They are there for a purpose, Use the dimples as drilling points. use the proper size drill bit to allow you socket entry to the screws to remove the motor. >> >Sounds like it is time to replace the three plastic pucks inside the >> >window regulator. [quoted text clipped - 77 lines] >allow you >socket entry to the screws to remove the motor. Thanks! Glad I found this thread. The local auto parts store sells the three "pucks" for $7.99 (online). I'll see if they have them in stock. Both windows in my '94 Bronco need to be fixed, so I need two kits. Sounds like a job I can handle, as I have the tools already :) Clay, The gear plug replacement worked. Eight dollars for the part and my driver side window works. I have the plugs and will do the passenger side. I think I could have done this without removing a rivet on a '94 Bronco. I'll know on the next door window. I did have to drill out two dimples. A 5/16 nut driver for the bolts. The plugs looked like crumbled cheddar cheese inside the gear box. Replaced the rivet with a bolt, etc... Thanks! Your post save me plenty of dollars. Oren >>> >Sounds like it is time to replace the three plastic pucks inside the >>> >window regulator. [quoted text clipped - 84 lines] > >Sounds like a job I can handle, as I have the tools already :) >I have a 1990 Ford Ranger with Power Windows. > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Any ideas? You need a new window regulator. This may or may not include a new motor, I expect it to not have a motor. You will have to open the door (remove the door panel) and remove the entire regulator assembly, including the motor. The new regulator will want you to transplant the motor from the old regulator. >>I have a 1990 Ford Ranger with Power Windows. >> [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > entire regulator assembly, including the motor. The new regulator will > want you to transplant the motor from the old regulator. PS I'm shocked that removal of the regulator requires drilling of rivets or the creation of new holes. I've only replaced a couple of regulators, never in a Ranger or Mazda, and the most I've had to do is run the window up or down a bit to expose the bolts. I suppose drilling a rivet is no big deal, but I have never seen this as a requirement. |
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