Anyone ever try to fix a heat/AC swtich (in dash)

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DanKMTB - 13 Dec 2008 22:52 GMT

Hi,

The switch on my 98 Ranger to control heat, defroster, AC has been on
the way out for a while - the only setting that worked was high. It
has now died completely, even high does not work. I'm thinking I'd
like to fix it as inexpensively as possible, what with the holidays
and all. Wondering if anyone has had any luck opening one of these up
and fixing it, or if I should just bite the bullet and replace it.

Thanks,

Dan

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Jeff Strickland - 13 Dec 2008 23:31 GMT

You have lost the resistor pack. Generally, this is located nearer to the
fan motor than the fan switch, but there's no reason it can't be in the
switch itself and I don't know how Ford/Mazda implements this part.

My suggestion is to buy a new resistor pack (ballast resistor is another
common term for this part) then set out to find the one you have by looking
at the new one. I've found these in or near the passenger side foot well.

> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Dan

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DanKMTB - 14 Dec 2008 17:40 GMT

> You have lost the resistor pack. Generally, this is located nearer to the
> fan motor than the fan switch, but there's no reason it can't be in the
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> > Dan

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Jeff Strickland - 14 Dec 2008 18:08 GMT

On Dec 13, 6:31 pm, "Jeff Strickland" <cr...@verizon.net> wrote:

> You have lost the resistor pack. Generally, this is located nearer to the
> fan motor than the fan switch, but there's no reason it can't be in the
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> > Dan

Thanks for the info. I had figured it was the switch only because I
lost speeds 1-3 well before losing the high speed, but I guess it
could still be attributed to the resistor pack. I'll have to see if I
can find mine.

<JS>

You've just confirmed the resistor pack. If you buy one first, it should be
easier to find the one that you already have.

</JS>

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DanKMTB - 14 Dec 2008 18:29 GMT

> On Dec 13, 6:31 pm, "Jeff Strickland" <cr...@verizon.net> wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
>
> </JS>

Thanks Jeff. Finding it was the easy part, it's unplugging it that
threatens frostbite before success. The resistor pack was in horrible
shape, as corroded as you could imagine - very easy to believe this is
the culprit.

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DanKMTB - 14 Dec 2008 18:27 GMT

> You have lost the resistor pack. Generally, this is located nearer to the
> fan motor than the fan switch, but there's no reason it can't be in the
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> > Dan

Well, I located and removed the resistor pack. Right under the
blower, passenger side, against the firewall. Based on the amount of
corrosion and rust on that thing I think there is a really good chance
we've got the culprit. Unfortunately, the monster plug that attaches
to it is a real bear to get off. I located and removed the pack in 2
minutes, and spent 10 fighting with the plug with no success. I'm
going to have to put it on hold for now until I have a second set of
hands available to help me fight with it. I'm tempted to put a hair
drier on it to loosen up the plastic, it's way cold here and I don't
think that's helping. I'd hate to have to cut off the plug and
replace it because I wasn't able to unplug the thing.

Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I'll keep updating to let you all
know if this does in fact do it.

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Tom J - 14 Dec 2008 21:56 GMT

>> You have lost the resistor pack. Generally, this is located nearer
>> to the fan motor than the fan switch, but there's no reason it
[quoted text clipped - 37 lines]
> think that's helping. I'd hate to have to cut off the plug and
> replace it because I wasn't able to unplug the thing.

You did look that plug over to make sure that it didn't have a latch
somewhere??

Tom J
who had that happen once :-(

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DanKMTB@gmail.com - 15 Dec 2008 02:47 GMT

> >> You have lost the resistor pack. Generally, this is located nearer
> >> to the fan motor than the fan switch, but there's no reason it
[quoted text clipped - 47 lines]
> Tom J
> who had that happen once :-(

It actually has 2 latches, one on each side. I did use a screwdriver
to open the latches before trying to unplug it, with no luck. I also
had a second set of hands help me, with me holding the latch open and
the other party pulling on the unit while I held the plug. We were
still unable to get it open. I've dealt with many plugs in my day,
many of which were quite rusted and corroded (usually on salt water
boats) and have never come across one this difficult to unplug. I'm
at a loss on this one.

Thanks for the idea all the same, sometimes it is the little stuff
like that. I wish it were that simple, I'd take a slice of humble pie
to be done with this.

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SC Tom - 15 Dec 2008 04:07 GMT

On Dec 14, 4:56 pm, "Tom J" <tomn...@earthlink.net> wrote:

> DanKMTB wrote:
> > On Dec 13, 6:31 pm, "Jeff Strickland" <cr...@verizon.net> wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 49 lines]
> Tom J
> who had that happen once :-(

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DanKMTB@gmail.com - 15 Dec 2008 13:36 GMT

> <DanK...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
[quoted text clipped - 74 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

It's soaking in PB as we speak, has been since around my last post. I
think a poster over at *.tech hit the nail on the head, melted plug.
I've tried pulling, twisting, fighting, even prying this thing open
without the slightest bit of movement. I think it's plug replacement
time. My primary concern is if it did melt together, was that caused
by a bad resistor or is it indicative of another problem I need to
hunt down?

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man of machines - 20 Dec 2008 18:54 GMT

some of the ford switches are replacable and only cost 15 bucs or so

> Hi,
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Dan

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