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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / January 2009300 lifter cover gaskets?
Is any brand preferable to any other? I know that when I had the oil pan gasket replaced the mechanic used what looks like neoprene. Is there something similar available for the lifter covers? I ought to be able to handle those myself... just dreaming of a leak free engine. I have tightened every bolt but still it marks its territory nate  Signaturereplace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel > Is any brand preferable to any other? I know that when I had the oil > pan gasket replaced the mechanic used what looks like neoprene. Is [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > nate Forgot, one more question I wanted to ask... what color would the engine block etc. have been painted? All the covers are a light grey but I don't see any evidence of paint on the block at all. Would it have been the same color? This is in a '93 pickup. nate Signaturereplace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel >> Is any brand preferable to any other? I know that when I had the oil >> pan gasket replaced the mechanic used what looks like neoprene. Is [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > >nate In that vintage, Ford did not paint the blocks or heads in cars or trucks. The metallurgist I was working with at the time said there was no benefit other than esthetics and, possibly, a downside since poorly sealing/bonded paint may serve to trap unnecessary moisture next to the metal. It seems that cast iron is a bit like aluminum in that the surface oxidizes providing protection against deep corrosion. There are chemical treatments for the metal surface that will greatly enhance the corrosion protection/resistance of metal. I suppose Ford just decided there was no great cost benefit in painting them. Personally, I have cleaned, treated and painted every one I have built just because I like the look of a clean painted or coated engine much better than a chunk of rust. You might say it is a source of pride in your work. I do not live in the rust belt and corrosion of the engine block is not a major consideration. Lugnut >> Is any brand preferable to any other? I know that when I had the oil >> pan gasket replaced the mechanic used what looks like neoprene. Is [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > nate Though my original 1993 F-150 valve cover is grey, the engine appears to have never been painted. i think the fel pro gasket for that is rubber. ive been useing gm type be sealer instead of premade valve cover,lifter cover ,oil pan gaskets and it doesnt leak. chevy dealer has it. lucas ---------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm >Is any brand preferable to any other? I know that when I had the oil >pan gasket replaced the mechanic used what looks like neoprene. Is [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >nate Make sure the cover is not warped. Torque the cover bolts, again after the engine is warm. In the correct sequence. You might try a pliable permatex product from the local auto store. >>Is any brand preferable to any other? I know that when I had the oil >>pan gasket replaced the mechanic used what looks like neoprene. Is [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > You might try a pliable permatex product from the local auto store. +1 for Oren's reply. Also check that the metal around the bolt holes hasn't been pulled in from over-tightening. If they have, you can tap them back flat with a ball peen hammer. SC Tom > >>Is any brand preferable to any other? I know that when I had the oil > >>pan gasket replaced the mechanic used what looks like neoprene. Is [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > SC Tom The cover doesn't bolt through the gasket surface, there are bolts through the center of the cover. I believe those are supposed to have grommets, after looking up the gasket set online, maybe that is part of the problem? If the grommets disintegrated that would explain why the bolts were so loose. nate On Jan 1, 12:04 pm, "SC Tom" <t...@sc.net> wrote: > "Oren" <O...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > SC Tom The cover doesn't bolt through the gasket surface, there are bolts through the center of the cover. I believe those are supposed to have grommets, after looking up the gasket set online, maybe that is part of the problem? If the grommets disintegrated that would explain why the bolts were so loose. nate ----- Thanks! I was thinking of the older covers that bolted around the lip and through the gasket. SC Tom > On Jan 1, 12:04 pm, "SC Tom" <t...@sc.net> wrote: >> "Oren" <O...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > > SC Tom I think they were always like that, we may be talking about two different covers. The valve cover on the head does in fact bolt through the gasket but as far as I can tell if it is leaking it is only at the back. The side cover on the block, the one that covers the lifters and pushrods, is bolted through the center of the cover, and while I can't 100% confirm it's leaking, the area around it certainly isn't dry. nate Signaturereplace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel >> On Jan 1, 12:04 pm, "SC Tom" <t...@sc.net> wrote: >>> "Oren" <O...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > > nate Start with a bucket full of rags and a can of lacquer thinner. DO NOT get any on rubber, plastic, or paint :( . I like it because it leaves no residue, and evaporates quickly. Starting with the side cover, remove it, clean the cover and the area around and under it good, and use a new gasket and center bolt grommets. RTV is good along with the gasket. I'd use a thin layer on both the cover and the block. After driving a while, you'll be able to see whether or not it's leaking from there. Or just go ahead and do the whole thing, with both the side covers and the valve covers. I had a '64 Ford 390 that had the rear-of-the-valve-cover leak and I had a heck of a time stopping it. At that time, the gasket was 4 pieces (what the heck were they thinking?), and I ended up using gasket shellac to 'glue' the gasket to the cover, then the old red Permatex on the ends of the pieces and on the mounting surface to the heads. Whew, what fun!! SC Tom |
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