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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Trucks / January 2009Oil additives
Are they any good? I've got an '08 Ranger 3.0, and I'm currently running Pennzoil 5W30, but I'm considering changing to Mobil 1 and /or something like Slick 50. Is it worth the cash? Any particular brands to stay away from? TIA. Do not use themOn Sat, 24 Jan 2009 18:32:46 -0600, Shanghai McCoy <ShanghaiMcCoy@notscape.not> wrote: >Are they any good? I've got an '08 Ranger 3.0, and I'm currently running >Pennzoil 5W30, but I'm considering changing to Mobil 1 and /or something >like Slick 50. Is it worth the cash? Any particular brands to stay away >from? TIA. Do not use any addaitives. The oils have everything that is needed to protect youtr engine. >Are they any good? I've got an '08 Ranger 3.0, and I'm currently running >Pennzoil 5W30, but I'm considering changing to Mobil 1 and /or something >like Slick 50. Is it worth the cash? Any particular brands to stay away >from? TIA. You do not need any additives. At best they do nothing; at worst may produce undiesireable problems. Slick 50 was sued by the FTC a few years ago for false claims and the maker of their "active ingregient - Teflon" has also stated the claims to be false if not impossible. While I am not a Pennzoil fan, it should be a decent oil when chenged in compliane with the manufacturer's requirements - vehicle manufacturer. A name brand synthetic like Mobil 1 can be changed far less frequently while giving good protection performance. Even if you use a synthetic, it still must be changed and maintained in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer's requirement to maintain warranty coverage in which case the Pennzoil 5w30 will probably do just as well. The main benefit of synthetic changed according to requirements will be easier cold starts in low temps and better lubrication on cold start. In any case stick with a good name brand oil whether dino or synthetic and your engine will probably outlast your interest in the vehicle. Lugnut >> Are they any good? I've got an '08 Ranger 3.0, and I'm currently running >> Pennzoil 5W30, but I'm considering changing to Mobil 1 and /or something [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Lugnut I have run Amsoil for 27,000 miles between oil changes, with the change of the filter and topping up, at 13,500 miles, in my Lincoln Town cars, four F-150's, 2 Dodge Rams, 2 Gold Wings, and a Honda CR-V, since 1988, with no issues or failures. Note that Amsoil warrantees the engine, transmission and differentials ( when their synthentic lubricants and/or filters, are used, together, with the engine oil filter comparable in cost to other brand premium oil filters for the engine). Careful to note that the Mobil 1 "blends" are a rip off, due to having the weaknesses of solvent boil off suffered by straight and mixed petroleum based oils! Blended oils violate the warrantees on some new Toyotas, for instance, which require pure synthetic based lubricants. >>> Are they any good? I've got an '08 Ranger 3.0, and I'm currently running >>> Pennzoil 5W30, but I'm considering changing to Mobil 1 and /or something [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] >petroleum based oils! Blended oils violate the warrantees on some new >Toyotas, for instance, which require pure synthetic based lubricants. Where did you get the idea that Mobil 1 is a "blend"? AFAIK it is and always has been straight synthetic. I think Castrol makes a "fake" synthetic. I don't see how a blended oil that meets the proper certification for Toyota could not be used however. > On Sat, 24 Jan 2009 18:32:46 -0600, Shanghai McCoy > <ShanghaiMcCoy@notscape.not> [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >>like Slick 50. Is it worth the cash? Any particular brands to stay away >>from? TIA. Slick 50 was sued by the FTC a few years ago for false > claims and the maker of their "active ingregient - Teflon" has also stated > the > claims to be false if not impossible. > Lugnut IIRC, Lug, they were NOT sued for false claims.. They made claims which they could not document.. There is a finite c. hair of difference. > Are they any good? I've got an '08 Ranger 3.0, and I'm currently running > Pennzoil 5W30, but I'm considering changing to Mobil 1 and /or something > like Slick 50. Is it worth the cash? Any particular brands to stay away > from? TIA. My Corvette specifies Mobil 1 - has something to do with not having an oil cooler. I buy it in 5 gallon jugs at WalMart for about $20 - $4/ quart. I have used it in my 2000 Ranger since it was new, have 110,000 miles on it and it runs like new with very high emission test results. There are other synthetics on the market and I would suppose they are just as good. only time i use oil additive is if the engine is worn out. just good synthetic oil is the best you can do for your engine.lucas , engine rebuilder for 40 years. ---------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm Thanks for the info guys. > Are they any good? I've got an '08 Ranger 3.0, and I'm currently running > Pennzoil 5W30, but I'm considering changing to Mobil 1 and /or something > like Slick 50. Is it worth the cash? Any particular brands to stay away > from? TIA. The correct oil for our Ranger is 5W20 that meets Ford specification WSS-M2C930-A Pennzoil does not have a 5W30 motor oil (conventional or synthetic) that meets Ford specification WSS-M2C930-A You're using the wrong oil (but hey, they're your rings, clog 'em up if you want to). As far as using additives; unless you're a chemical engineer well versed in petroleum, you have no way of knowing whether the components in the additive will conflict with the ones already in the oil. Additives with metal salts (ZDDP) will poison your catalytic converter and cause sludge to form. Additives with chlorine will cause acids that will eat holes in your exhaust. Motorcraft brand 5W20 is an excellent oil, it is a synthetic blend and is priced quite reasonably, and it meets the Ford specification. Mobil 1 5W20 also meets the Ford specification but may not actually be worth paying twice the price of the Motorcraft oil. >> Are they any good? I've got an '08 Ranger 3.0, and I'm currently running >> Pennzoil 5W30, but I'm considering changing to Mobil 1 and /or something [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > Mobil 1 5W20 also meets the Ford specification but may not actually be > worth paying twice the price of the Motorcraft oil. Just a note. I heard on the TeeVee that EPA has removed most/all wear additives from new oil classifications. That makes Synthetic probably the only way to go unless STP is still out there and I'm not too sure that it has wear additives such as zinc. > > Mobil 1 5W20 also meets the Ford specification but may not actually be > > worth paying twice the price of the Motorcraft oil. > > Just a note. I heard on the TeeVee that EPA has removed most/all wear > additives from new oil classifications. The ones that poison catalytic converters have been removed. ZDDP was a cheap way to make mediocre base stocks perform to specifications. The elimination of ZDDP has forced the refiners to choose better base stocks and use more expensive additive packages. > That makes Synthetic probably > the only way to go unless STP is still out there and I'm not too sure > that it has wear additives such as zinc. It's a good bet that any motor oil that meets the more stringent GM, Ford, Chrysler, BMW, VW/Audi, Saab etc approvals will be at minimum a synthetic blend even if it isn't labeled as such. If it's Zinc you want, I think Amsoil still uses it in their oils, which probably explains why most of their oils don't cary the critical OEM approvals one should follow to maintain their warranty. (also makes me think their oils aren't really as good as they claim) > If it's Zinc you want, I think Amsoil still uses it in their oils, > which probably explains why most of their oils don't cary the > critical OEM approvals one should follow to maintain their warranty. > (also makes me think their oils aren't really as good as they claim) I still don't understand where people get "the OEM oil in not as good" when the manufacturer is the 1 doing the warranty repairs if something goes wrong!! My truck specifies 5W20 and that's what I've put in it for the 1st 123,000 miles, and that's what it will continue to get as long as I own it. I don't need any multi-level non-rated marketing product to protect my truck!! Tom J >> > Mobil 1 5W20 also meets the Ford specification but may not actually be >> > worth paying twice the price of the Motorcraft oil. [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > approvals one should follow to maintain their warranty. > (also makes me think their oils aren't really as good as they claim) Some AMSOIL products do meet API specifications. Please read this web page to discover the truth about AMSOIL's choice to produce oils with higher levels of ZDP. Pay particular attention to the NOACK volatility scale and it's effect on oil evaporation which causes vehicles filled with AMSOIL to have no more catalytic converter problems than regular oils with the lower levels of ZDP that meet the API specification. http://www.technilube.com/faqs_info/api.php  SignatureSteve Spence Independent AMSOIL Dealer Unemployed Car Guy - Trying to Earn A Living 35 Years of GM Parts Experience http://synthetic-oil-tech.com/1690163 amsoil1@charter.net > >> > Mobil 1 5W20 also meets the Ford specification but may not actually be > >> > worth paying twice the price of the Motorcraft oil. [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > http://www.technilube.com/faqs_info/api.php Good gawd, what a dog and pony show! By focusing on the miserably minimal API specifications, Amsoil totally deflects any scrutiny regarding OEM oil specifications. No version of Amsoil carries any approvals for; GM 4718M, GM 6094M Ford WSS-M2C930A Ford WSS-M2C929A Chrysler MS-6395 Chrysler MS-10725 Honda HTO-06 VW 500.0X, 501.0X, 502.0X, 503.0X 505.0X, 506.0X (note: X = any subvariants) BMW LL-98, LL-01, LL-04 This is the short list... Plain and simple, there are scant few vehicles out there that can safely use any Amsoil product, the exceptions being those OEMs that only specify using an API rated motor oil. Also, I find this statement in your above link humorous; "This has also been demonstrated for years in actual application through state mandated exhaust gas testing on our Dealers' and customers' high mileage vehicles using AMSOIL synthetic motor oils." "State mandated testing?" Are they serious? Do you have ANY idea the magnitude of difference between a state IM test and the federal test protocol? Amsoil shouldn't insult their potential customers with such silly statements (unless of course, they don't think anyone would know any better). Also; please note that in my post that you are replying to, never once did I mention 'API' in any shape, manner or form. The fact that you mention API in your reply serves as proof that you are merely parroting from the Amsoil salesdroid playbook and can only offer what the fathercompany allowed/included in the 'overcoming objections' section. > Do you have ANY idea the magnitude of difference between a state IM > test and the federal test protocol? > Amsoil shouldn't insult their potential customers with such silly > statements (unless of course, they don't think anyone would know any > better). People that fall for multi level marketing, of ANY product, whether it's Amway or Amsoil, are as gullible as they come, and there is no way you will ever make them see it any different, so save your energy, and move on to another topic. :-( Tom J That makes Synthetic probably > the only way to go unless STP is still out there and I'm not too sure that > it has wear additives such as zinc. The original STP was nothing more than poly(isobutylene), increased mol weight. I dont believe it had any zinc, phosphorus, etc wear compounds in it. >Are they any good? I've got an '08 Ranger 3.0, and I'm currently running >Pennzoil 5W30, but I'm considering changing to Mobil 1 and /or something >like Slick 50. Is it worth the cash? Any particular brands to stay away >from? TIA. If you don't plan on going to long drain intervals it's unlikely you'd see any benefit to Mobile 1 unless you live at the north pole. Regular oils can easily go 6000 miles between changes unless you are in a really harsh driving environment. Synthetics should have no trouble going to 12,000. >> Are they any good? I've got an '08 Ranger 3.0, and I'm currently running >> Pennzoil 5W30, but I'm considering changing to Mobil 1 and /or something [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > really harsh driving environment. Synthetics should have no trouble > going to 12,000. N. Florida, which is why I chose 5W30 instead of 5W20.... > N. Florida, which is why I chose 5W30 instead of 5W20.... My F-250 owners manual makes no difference in where it's driven. It specs Motorcraft 5W20, so that's what I have used & at 130,000 miles with over 1/2 that towing an 8,000# travel trailer all over North America & through 14 states in Mexico, with oil & filter changes every 7,000 miles, it still does not need oil added between changes. I think Ford has it right!!! BTW, 1 time I needed an oil change when 5W20 was not available & put in 5W30, the fuel mileage dropped over 1 MPG. Tom J > >> Are they any good? I've got an '08 Ranger 3.0, and I'm currently running > >> Pennzoil 5W30, but I'm considering changing to Mobil 1 and /or something [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > N. Florida, which is why I chose 5W30 instead of 5W20.... I'll guaranty you that the temperature of the ring lands in the pistons, the temperature of the piston rings and the temperature of the valve stems are identical whether you drive that truck to operating temperature in Florida or Minnesota. "aarcuda69062" <nonelson@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message news:nonelson-2 > I'll guaranty you that the temperature of the ring lands in the pistons, > the temperature of the piston rings and the temperature of the valve > stems are identical whether you drive that truck to operating > temperature in Florida or Minnesota. Dont doubt that at all. Initial oil viscosity under starting conditions is what some of these people praise. I used both synthetic in one of my cars and nonsynthetic in another in Norway, but neither ever had a problem starting even at very - minus temperatures. Having said that, I had a Freaking Ford Capri in Scotland that wouldnt pull a start at much higher temperatures. Not a starter problem as such, it was simply one of those cars you would prefer to walk away from (which I did very often) > Are they any good? I've got an '08 Ranger 3.0, and I'm currently running > Pennzoil 5W30, but I'm considering changing to Mobil 1 and /or something > like Slick 50. Is it worth the cash? Any particular brands to stay away > from? TIA. Mobile 1 is a good choice. I've recently started using Valvoline Full Synthetic in the p/u. Still running Mobil 1 in the other 2. It seems to maintain pressure better. It's advertised as 4 times slicker than Mobil 1. We'll see Mobil 1 is used by Mercedes, Corvette and a host of other performance engines. |
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