Ranger / B3000 Front Main Seal

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Jeff Strickland - 31 Jan 2009 22:53 GMT

I have a MPV with the 3.0L motor that should be the same as they put into
the Ranger / B3000. I have a leak that looks as if it is coming from behind
the harmonic balancer.

It looks as if the motor has to come out to take the oil pan off so that I
can get to the crank bearings and front seal. Is this correct, or is there
another way? Is the front seal a two-piece or one-piece affair?

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Nate Nagel - 31 Jan 2009 23:49 GMT

> I have a MPV with the 3.0L motor that should be the same as they put
> into the Ranger / B3000. I have a leak that looks as if it is coming
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> I can get to the crank bearings and front seal. Is this correct, or is
> there another way? Is the front seal a two-piece or one-piece affair?

usually one piece and pressed into the timing cover, but wait for an
informed response.

nate

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Jeff Strickland - 01 Feb 2009 00:05 GMT

>> I have a MPV with the 3.0L motor that should be the same as they put into
>> the Ranger / B3000. I have a leak that looks as if it is coming from
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> nate

Okay, that makes it sound like I can do this job in my driveway. Basically,
pull the pulleys and balancer, and remove the timing cover? This can be done
with the engine in place, right?

There's still an issue with the oil pan though. The cross member is in the
way of taking it off.

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Nate Nagel - 01 Feb 2009 00:14 GMT

>>> I have a MPV with the 3.0L motor that should be the same as they put
>>> into the Ranger / B3000. I have a leak that looks as if it is coming
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> There's still an issue with the oil pan though. The cross member is in
> the way of taking it off.

It really depends. On a small block Chevy for instance, you still need
to drop the pan slightly to remove the timing cover. Other engines I've
worked on you don't. I have no knowledge of your particular engine...

nate

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replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
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Jeff Strickland - 01 Feb 2009 00:25 GMT

>>>> I have a MPV with the 3.0L motor that should be the same as they put
>>>> into the Ranger / B3000. I have a leak that looks as if it is coming
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> nate

Damn you! Build me up then let me down. I knew a girl like that once.

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Ashton Crusher - 01 Feb 2009 04:14 GMT

>I have a MPV with the 3.0L motor that should be the same as they put into
>the Ranger / B3000. I have a leak that looks as if it is coming from behind
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>can get to the crank bearings and front seal. Is this correct, or is there
>another way? Is the front seal a two-piece or one-piece affair?

You didn't say what year you have but assuming it's the same as a 92
Aerostar with a 3.0 here's what my Repair CD says about it.

Crankshaft Pulley/Damper/Front Oil Seal

Removal

1.    Disconnect battery negative cable.

2.    Loosen accessory drive belts and remove.

3.    Remove four pulley-to-damper retaining bolts.

4.    Remove crankshaft pulley.

5.    Remove damper retaining bolt and washer.

6.    Remove damper from crankshaft using Crankshaft Damper Remover
T58P-6316-D and Vibration Damper Remover Adapter T82L-6316-B or
equivalent.

7.    Pry seal from timing cover with a flat-bladed screwdriver or
other similar tool. Use care to prevent damage to front cover and
crankshaft.

Installation

1.    Inspect front cover and shaft seal surface of the crankshaft
damper for damage, nicks, burrs or other roughness which may cause the
new seal to fail. Service or replace components as necessary.

2.    Lubricate seal lip with clean engine oil and install seal
using Damper/Front Cover Seal Installer T82L-6316-A and Front Cover
Seal Replacer T70P-6B070-A or equivalent.

3.    Coat crankshaft damper sealing surface with clean engine oil.
Apply RTV ESE-M4G195-B using Rotunda RTV Dispenser 021-00031 or
equivalent to keyway of damper prior to installation. Install damper
using Damper/Front Cover Seal Installer T82L-6316-A or equivalent.
Install damper attaching bolt and washer and tighten to 145 N-m (107
ft-lb).

4.    Position crankshaft pulley and install attaching bolts.
Tighten attaching bolts to 32 N-m (24 ft-lb).

5.    Position drive belt(s) over crankshaft pulley.

6.    Check drive belt for proper routing and engagement in the
pulleys. Adjust drive belt to specification. Refer to «Section 03-05»,
Accessory Drive.

7.    Connect battery negative cable.

NOTE:
When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal
drive symptoms may occur while the EEC processor relearns its adaptive
strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to
relearn the strategy.

8.    Start engine and check for oil leaks.

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Scott - 08 Feb 2009 19:19 GMT

>I have a MPV with the 3.0L motor that should be the same as they put into
>the Ranger / B3000. I have a leak that looks as if it is coming from behind
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> can get to the crank bearings and front seal. Is this correct, or is there
> another way? Is the front seal a two-piece or one-piece affair?

Did you look to see if a one of those thin metal balancer fixer

puppies is available? It is a very thin sleeve you tap onto the balancer
to fix a groove, and of course it is a couple thousanths thick.

Might be all you need.

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