Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Ford / Ford Cars / October 2006

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

Starting problem 1980 ford

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Martik - 04 Oct 2006 01:24 GMT
After jumping a wire from the bat+ to the coil+ the car starts normally.
Which component is likely causing it not to start when not jumpered? Ballast
resistor? Location

Thanks
Mike Romain - 04 Oct 2006 02:41 GMT
Likely a dirty connection on the solenoid on the fender.  One of the
small side push on ones.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

> After jumping a wire from the bat+ to the coil+ the car starts normally.
> Which component is likely causing it not to start when not jumpered? Ballast
> resistor? Location
>
> Thanks
MasterBlaster - 04 Oct 2006 13:00 GMT
> After jumping a wire from the bat+ to the coil+ the car starts normally.
> Which component is likely causing it not to start when not jumpered? Ballast
> resistor? Location

1 - Is there power at the coil with the key "on"?

2 - 1980 Ford... what?
  Australian Laser TX3?
  British Cortina Mk V?
  American Pinto wagon?

Can't help if we don't have ALL the relevant info.
Martik - 04 Oct 2006 20:01 GMT
>> After jumping a wire from the bat+ to the coil+ the car starts normally.
>> Which component is likely causing it not to start when not jumpered?
>> Ballast
>> resistor? Location
>
> 1 - Is there power at the coil with the key "on"?

yes, spark is weak (i think) orange not blue/white when coil wire placed
1/4" from block

> 2 - 1980 Ford... what?
>   Australian Laser TX3?
>   British Cortina Mk V?
>   American Pinto wagon?
>
> Can't help if we don't have ALL the relevant info.

Tbird 255 cu in
Steve Stone - 04 Oct 2006 21:46 GMT
I would check out the ignition switch , the ballast resistor or resistor
wire / fusable link (depending on what was used at that time), any
capacitors attached to the coil  for noise suppression, and grounds in that
circuit.

You are telling us that you are bypassing the circuit that provides voltage
to the coil to create a spark becuase the voltage is too low, correct ?

You might also want to check all the wires ganged up on the starter
solenoid. Corrosion buildup between the ends could cause trouble.
Martik - 04 Oct 2006 22:03 GMT
>I would check out the ignition switch , the ballast resistor or resistor
>wire / fusable link (depending on what was used at that time), any
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> You might also want to check all the wires ganged up on the starter
> solenoid. Corrosion buildup between the ends could cause trouble.

Thanks.  No, because it will not start, spark is too weak
Mike Romain - 04 Oct 2006 22:39 GMT
The power to the coil when the key is in 'start' is a different circuit
that comes off the side of the solenoid on the fender.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

> >> After jumping a wire from the bat+ to the coil+ the car starts normally.
> >> Which component is likely causing it not to start when not jumpered?
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Tbird 255 cu in
lugnut - 05 Oct 2006 03:02 GMT
>After jumping a wire from the bat+ to the coil+ the car starts normally.
>Which component is likely causing it not to start when not jumpered? Ballast
>resistor? Location
>
>Thanks

What is the voltage at the coil in the start - not run - key
position.  If the voltage is low or none, you have a problem
in the start circuit.  If you have 7-10 volts in the run
position, you are OK.  The start circuit bypasses the run
circuit to give the coil higher voltage for more spark when
starting.  The run voltage passes thru a resistor wire in
Fords.  Another problem may be your DuraSpark module which
has it's own test procedure.

Lugnut
glashley2004@comcast.net - 05 Oct 2006 17:25 GMT
make shure you check the battery cable and make shure the conectionn to
the battery is tight
Martik - 05 Oct 2006 20:04 GMT
>>After jumping a wire from the bat+ to the coil+ the car starts normally.
>>Which component is likely causing it not to start when not jumpered?
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> Fords.  Another problem may be your DuraSpark module which
> has it's own test procedure.

Start voltage is 7, Run voltage is 10
Backyard Mechanic - 05 Oct 2006 17:44 GMT
> After jumping a wire from the bat+ to the coil+ the car starts
> normally. Which component is likely causing it not to start when not
> jumpered? Ballast resistor? Location

Car starts but stops when key released from start pos = ballast resistor

Car runs okay, starts hard but better when batt + jumpered to coil.  
Solenoid/relay bypass.

Only starts AND runs when jumpered = wiring TO ign switch, ign switch, or
wiring between ballast resistor and coil.

Test lights are cheap... buy one in the hardware or autoparts discount bin
next time oyu see one.

Signature

Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!

Martik - 05 Oct 2006 18:41 GMT
>> After jumping a wire from the bat+ to the coil+ the car starts
>> normally. Which component is likely causing it not to start when not
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Car runs okay, starts hard but better when batt + jumpered to coil.
> Solenoid/relay bypass.

This is the senario except will NOT start (unless some gas poured down carb)
but runs OK. Theory I have hear is that the extra rich condition from raw
gas poured down carb allows startup with weaker spark)

> Only starts AND runs when jumpered = wiring TO ign switch, ign switch, or
> wiring between ballast resistor and coil.
>
> Test lights are cheap... buy one in the hardware or autoparts discount bin
> next time oyu see one.
Mike Romain - 05 Oct 2006 19:00 GMT
Some Ford systems have a gas return line with a double outlet on the
fuel filter.  If this is yours and the center line goes to the carb,
then the return line has to go on the top or the gas will syphon back to
the tank air locking the gas line.  You then need to prime the carb.
You can also get this if you have a pinhole leak on the suction side of
the gas pump.

If you add gas to a weak spark, you just flood it.

Still sounds like a dirty connection on the solenoid to me also.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

> >> After jumping a wire from the bat+ to the coil+ the car starts
> >> normally. Which component is likely causing it not to start when not
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> > Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
> > you pay..DEAL with it!
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2009 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.