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Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
>> After jumping a wire from the bat+ to the coil+ the car starts
>> normally. Which component is likely causing it not to start when not
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Car runs okay, starts hard but better when batt + jumpered to coil.
> Solenoid/relay bypass.
This is the senario except will NOT start (unless some gas poured down carb)
but runs OK. Theory I have hear is that the extra rich condition from raw
gas poured down carb allows startup with weaker spark)
> Only starts AND runs when jumpered = wiring TO ign switch, ign switch, or
> wiring between ballast resistor and coil.
>
> Test lights are cheap... buy one in the hardware or autoparts discount bin
> next time oyu see one.
Mike Romain - 05 Oct 2006 19:00 GMT
Some Ford systems have a gas return line with a double outlet on the
fuel filter. If this is yours and the center line goes to the carb,
then the return line has to go on the top or the gas will syphon back to
the tank air locking the gas line. You then need to prime the carb.
You can also get this if you have a pinhole leak on the suction side of
the gas pump.
If you add gas to a weak spark, you just flood it.
Still sounds like a dirty connection on the solenoid to me also.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
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> >> After jumping a wire from the bat+ to the coil+ the car starts
> >> normally. Which component is likely causing it not to start when not
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> > Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
> > you pay..DEAL with it!