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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Cars / October 2006

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Why 5W20 Oil?

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Denis Roy - 17 Oct 2006 02:52 GMT
My 03 Windstar specifies 5W20 oil, which is rather hard to find.  Is it
really necessary to use this grade?  I've always used 5W30 and I have a
several jugs of it.  Would a different grade invalidate the warranty?

Signature

Denis Roy
D. Roy Woodcraft
www.ideasinwood.com

Andy - 17 Oct 2006 03:19 GMT
>My 03 Windstar specifies 5W20 oil, which is rather hard to find.  Is it
>really necessary to use this grade?  I've always used 5W30 and I have a
>several jugs of it.  Would a different grade invalidate the warranty?

5W-20 isn't too hard to find.  Personaly I don't like it and would use
5W-30.
Sharon Cooke - 17 Oct 2006 03:30 GMT
> My 03 Windstar specifies 5W20 oil, which is rather hard to find.  Is it
> really necessary to use this grade?  I've always used 5W30 and I have a
> several jugs of it.  Would a different grade invalidate the warranty?

Ford specifies 5W20 for slightly better fuel mileage. particularly on
short runs where the engine never fully warms up. BTW, I see 5W20 at
A-Z, A-A, or W-M, in several different brands, so it's not that hard to
find.
Denis Roy - 18 Oct 2006 02:02 GMT
Around here Walmart sells it only in 1 litre bottles, and have only the one
brand.  I guess I'll keep looking for it or will have to see how much it is
at a Ford dealer.  I have no idea what A-A or A-Z refers to.  Perhaps you
refer to stores we don't have in Canada.

Thanks for your reply

Signature

Denis Roy
D. Roy Woodcraft
www.ideasinwood.com

>
>> My 03 Windstar specifies 5W20 oil, which is rather hard to find.  Is it
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> short runs where the engine never fully warms up. BTW, I see 5W20 at A-Z,
> A-A, or W-M, in several different brands, so it's not that hard to find.
Jeff - 18 Oct 2006 02:16 GMT
> Around here Walmart sells it only in 1 litre bottles, and have only the
> one brand.  I guess I'll keep looking for it or will have to see how much
> it is at a Ford dealer.  I have no idea what A-A or A-Z refers to.
> Perhaps you refer to stores we don't have in Canada.

1 litre is only slightly bigger than 1 qt. So 5 litres = 5.28 quarts.

Jeff

> Thanks for your reply
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>> short runs where the engine never fully warms up. BTW, I see 5W20 at A-Z,
>> A-A, or W-M, in several different brands, so it's not that hard to find.
Rodan - 18 Oct 2006 03:38 GMT
Denis Roy wrote:                    03 Windstar

Ford specifies 5W20 oil, which is rather hard to find.
Is this really necessary?  I've always used 5W30 and
I have a several jugs of it.   Would a different grade
invalidate the warranty?  Walmart here sells only one
brand of 5W20, and only in 1 litre bottles.
___________________________________________

If 5W20 was impossible to find, I would not be afraid
to use 5W30.   I don't believe it would invalidate the
warranty, but I wouldn't tell the dealer to find out.

There is nothing wrong with a one-litre bottle if you
like the brand.   The crankcase is filled according to
the dipstick so bottle size is unimportant.   Mix the
new bottled oil with the old jug oil until you get a
viscosity that makes you comfortable.

Good luck.

Rodan.
Ashton Crusher - 17 Oct 2006 06:04 GMT
>My 03 Windstar specifies 5W20 oil, which is rather hard to find.  Is it
>really necessary to use this grade?  I've always used 5W30 and I have a
>several jugs of it.  Would a different grade invalidate the warranty?

Most likely if you look in the owners manual, and sometimes even on
the dipstick, it will show alternative oil weights that can be used. I
think it would be very difficult to reject a warranty claim since they
used 5w30 and 10w30 in the same engines for years with no warranty
issues.

The reason they went to 5w20 was to squeeze another 0.1 mpg out of the
ratings.  In order to create a 5w20 oil that provided the same
protection as the "old" 5w30 and 10w30 oils they had to resort to the
use of some synthetic oil in the mix and do a lot of other
reformulating. And even after that the best they could say about the
new oil was that it didn't seem any worse.  I think you are far better
off using Mobil One 10w20 or 30 .
C. E. White - 17 Oct 2006 12:52 GMT
> My 03 Windstar specifies 5W20 oil, which is rather hard to find.  Is it
> really necessary to use this grade?  I've always used 5W30 and I have a
> several jugs of it.  Would a different grade invalidate the warranty?

This question comes up regularly. It is not just Ford that recommends 5W20.
Honda and Toyota (some vehicles) do also. It is unlikely that using 5W30 oil
will invalidate your warranty. You would have to have an oil related failure
that Ford could prove was the result of using 5W30. However, if you go to
Ford and complain about lifter noise, or piston slap, or other engine
complaints, one of the first things they are likely to ask you is "Are you
using 5W20 Oil?" It should also be noted that the 5W20 oil is not a blanket
recommendation for all Ford engines. The 4.0L V-6 in Mustangs and Explorers
still requires 5W30 Oil. Here is some old verbiage on the subject from a
prior post (some of the info is getting old):

There have been a number of SAE papers by US and Japanese engineers on the
subject of 5W20 motor oil. Not one found that it caused durability problems.
GM engineers had one paper that found that the 5W20 oil had slightly reduced
bearing oil film thickness compared to 5W30, but the difference was trivial
and the paper was actually describing a measurement technique. Toyota and
Honda engineers have published papers that were positive about the use of
5W20. These papers claimed that their were no reliability problems
associated with the switch to 5W20 oil. Here is what Ford had to say when
the 5W20 was initially released (2001):

TSB 01-4-7

ISSUE:

Engine oil recommended for use in 2001 vehicles is SAE 5W-20 motor oil. This
oil has an improved formulation to improve fuel economy. This oil can also
be used to service some previous model year vehicles.

ACTION:

Use SAE 5W-20 engine oil at recommended oil change intervals for 2001
vehicles, with the exception of the following vehicles listed in the
"Exception 2001 Vehicles" chart. All 2001 vehicles other than those listed
in the "Exception 2001 Vehicles" chart are being filled with SAE 5W-20 motor
oil at the factory and should also be serviced with SAE 5W-20 oil.

Vehicle Application Listing Approved For SAE 5W-20 Motor Oil:
1995-2000 2.5L Contour/Mystique
1999-2001 2.5L Cougar 1996-2001 3.0L 4V Taurus/Sable
1999-2001 3.0L (Vulcan) Ranger (Flexible Fuel and Gas), Windstar,
Taurus/Sable (Flexible Fuel and Gas)
1996-1997 3.8L Thunderbird/Cougar
1996-2001 3.8L Mustang and 3.8L SPI Windstar
1997-2001 4.2L (SPI) F-150 (under 8500 GVW only), Econoline
1996-2001 4.6L 2V Mustang
1992-2001 4.6L Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis
1991-2001 4.6L Town Car
1994-1997 4.6L 2V Thunderbird/Cougar
1996-2001 4.6L 4V Mustang Cobra
1995-2001 4.6L Continental
1993-1998 4.6L 4V Mark VIII
1998-2001 5.4L 2V/4V Navigator
1997-2001 4.6L 2V Triton F-150/250 (under 8500 GVW only), Econoline,
Expedition
1997-2001 5.4L 2V F-150/250 (under 8500 GVW only), Expedition,
E-150/250/350, E-350 Chassis/RV/Cutaway
1997-2001 6.8L E-250/350, E-350 Chassis/RV/Cutaway
1999-2001 6.8L Super Duty F-Series 250 HD/350/450/550 Motorhome
2001 2.0L Zetec/2.0L SPI Focus
2001 2.0L Zetec/3.0L Escape
2001 2.0L SPI Escort
2000-2001 5.4L/6.8L Excursion
2000-2001 3.0L Lincoln LS
2001 2.0L Zetec Escort ZX2

NOTE: THE "EXCEPTION 2001 VEHICLES" SHOULD BE SERVICED WITH SAE 5W-30 MOTOR
OIL.

Exception 2001 Vehicles:
Engine Vehicle
2.5L   Ranger
3.3L   Villager
3.9L   Lincoln LS
4.0L   Ranger, Explorer/Mountaineer, Explorer Sport, and Explorer Sport Trac
5.0L   Explorer/Mountaineer
NOTE: IF VEHICLE IS NOT LISTED IN THIS APPLICATION, SAE 5W-30 OIL IS
RECOMMENDED. REFER TO TSB 99-8-16.

The following Q&A's were originally posted to the Mustang newsgroup several
years ago -

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS REGARDING MOTOR OIL .... [ info on ATF deleted ]

Q. Why did Motorcraft release SAE 5W-20 motor oil?
A. It was the right thing to do for the consumer and for the environment. It
was one of Ford's first steps in improving the fuel economy of our SUVs by
25% by the 2005 calendar year. SAE 5W-20 improves fuel consumption by
approximately 0.6 percent. For the 2001 fleet, this amounts to reducing fuel
usage by more than 21 million gallons per year. This reduction in gasoline
consumption leads to a reduction in carbon dioxide emissions by 190,000
metric tons per year, which is equivalent to taking nearly 23,100 cars and
trucks off the road each year.

Q. Is there really a difference in quality between 5W-20 and 5W-30?
A. It is important to separate the differences in viscosity grade, and also
the differences in the performance standards set by the International
Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) and the
accompanying American Petroleum Institute (API) performance categories to
answer this question. First, SAE 5W-20 oils are slightly less viscous at
operating temperature
than SAE 5W-30 oils. This reduction in viscous drag contributes to reduced
friction in the engine and thus improved fuel economy for an SAE 5W-20.
Second, there are differences between the present ILSAC GF-2 standard (GF
stands for gasoline fueled) and the soon to be commercialized GF-3 standard.
The performance of a GF-3 oil will be significantly improved over a GF-2
oil. When Motorcraft released it's SAE 5W-20 formulation we wanted it to
perform at the GF-3 level; but the GF-3 spec had not been finalized, so we
'guesstimated' what GF-3 would look like. In so doing we doubled the length
of the standard dynamometer Sequence IIIE test (which duplicates high
temperature trailer towing) which increases wear protection and reduces oil
thickening. While GF-3 also improves on the standard GF-2 Sequence IIIE
test, it went nowhere near as far as Ford did. This provides Motorcraft SAE
5W-20 with a significant increase over 'standard' GF-3 oils, which most SAE
5W-30 oils will meet. Taking all this into account, the Motorcraft SAE 5W-20
will be a significant improvement over most SAE 5W-30 oils.

Q. Does the difference in price between Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 and SAE 5W-30
really reflect a better oil?
A. Yes. The better base oils, and increased additives such as friction
modifiers and anti-oxidants used to formulate for the performance levels in
the SAE 5W-20 do cost more, but reflect the significant increase in
performance.

Q. What Ford and Lincoln/Mercury vehicles use SAE 5W-20 oil?
A. Approximately 80% of 2001 models should be serviced with SAE 5W-20 oils.
By 2003 model year all Ford and Lincoln Mercury vehicles will be filled with
SAE 5W-20 at the factory. But there are a significant number of older
vehicles, some as old as 1991 models where Ford now recommends servicing
with SAE 5W-20. Refer to the chart listed in Technical Service Bulletin
Article No. 01-4-7 for details of which older models should use SAE 5W-20
and for the 2001 'exception' models which should continue to use SAE 5W-30.

Q. What happens if someone uses SAE 5W-20 in older vehicles?
A. As stated before some older vehicles have been approved for SAE 5W-20.
However, there are many older vehicles not covered by TSB 01-4-7, and Ford
is presently testing these to determine whether durability and performance
would be compromised if SAE 5W-20 was used. Until this testing is
successfully completed (and a TSB is published to this effect), it is not
recommended using SAE 5W-20 in an older model unless specifically mentioned
in TSB 01-4-7.

Q. Is Motorcraft the only brand for SAE 5W-20 motor oil?
A. No. Although SAE 5W-20 is not yet a popular viscosity grade, major
marketers including Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Exxon and others have
either already begun marketing an SAE 5W-20 or have plans to do so.
Customers should find this viscosity grade increasingly available in coming
months, including at some retail outlets.

Q. Will SAE 5W-20 provide longer oil change intervals?
A. At the present time Ford recommends no change to the existing drain
interval for SAE 5W-20. However, Ford is investigating allowing longer drain
intervals since the performance level of Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 is
significantly better than today's GF-2 oils.

Q. Why does Wal-Mart have Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 so much cheaper than dealers
can now buy it?
A. Oil and Filter change is the number one Do-It-Yourself repair. Many Ford
Motor Company customers are avid Do-It-Yourselfers. Some may purchase
required products from our franchised dealerships, however, most prefer to
purchase products available at mass merchandisers. If our product is not
available they will buy other brands available at these
retailers. Ford Motor Company has an obligation to the EPA to ensure all of
our customers have access to this new oil and Wal-Mart is one of several
retailers carrying Motorcraft products. Wal-Mart bought several truckloads
of Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 at the original introductory price. These original
quantities are still available at Wal-Mart. As Wal-Mart re-orders Motorcraft
SAE 5W-20 in the future they will purchase it at the increased price.

[ ATF Info Deleted ]

---------------------------

I used nothing but 5W20 Oil in my 2001 Mustang as long as I owned it, and in
my 2003 Expedition for the first 85,000 miles. I never had any oil related
problems for either vehicle. However in the case of the Expedition, I did
have what I considered to be minor piston slap on cold mornings. I changed
to 5W30 Mobil 1 at around 85,000 miles and it seemed that this reduced the
noise, but to be honest, the noise was infrequent and not particularly
noticeable, so I am not sure the 5W30 actually made any difference. Ford
specifies 5W20 Oil for my 2004 Thunderbird, but I decided to use 5W30 Mobil
1 instead. The Thunderbird (and Lincoln LS) use a version of a Jaguar V-8
and in England, 5W30 is listed as the preferred viscosity for most
conditions for this engine (5W20 is allowed even in the Jaguar Owners Guide
for many conditions).

Ed
Mike Hunter - 17 Oct 2006 15:25 GMT
No.  The manufacture used 5W20 in the engine when it was certified for CAFE,
thus must recommend owners use that grade.

mike

> My 03 Windstar specifies 5W20 oil, which is rather hard to find.  Is it
> really necessary to use this grade?  I've always used 5W30 and I have a
> several jugs of it.  Would a different grade invalidate the warranty?
juanalong - 17 Oct 2006 22:22 GMT
What oil to use and at what grade to use is the subject in almost every
newsgroup. It makes for a very good discussion and it educates those who
have zero knowledge of oil or lubricants...including me. I live in south
Texas, and down here, 5W anything is way too thin, regardless of what the
OEM say's. In this hot, dusty environment, 10W-30/40 is the preferred choice
in every vehicle.  I'm sure those folks living in the snow belt have their
preference to thinner oil, as they should. Best of luck with your research.
:-)
FEMaster - 17 Oct 2006 22:33 GMT
>What oil to use and at what grade to use is the subject in almost every
>newsgroup. It makes for a very good discussion and it educates those who
>have zero knowledge of oil or lubricants...including me. I live in south
>Texas, and down here, 5W anything is way too thin, regardless of what the
>OEM say's. In this hot, dusty environment, 10W-30/40 is the preferred choice
>in every vehicle. <snip>

WRONG!  Modern engines have much narrower oil galleries and passages
and run with narrower clearances...they are designed to use
multiweights with a low end viscosity of 5W.  10W-40 is almost an
obsolete viscosity for gasoline engines anymore, only used now for old
timer V8s and really high miler beaters...which, in South Texas, are
probably plentiful.

SAE 40 is too thick for any good, low mileage engine, and has been for
decades.  Example:  Honda, way back in the '70s, issued a bulletin
that CVCC engines should NOT use 10W-40, as it was too thick when warm
to provide adequate cam lobe and valve guide lubrication.  Sure
enough, a look inside many a CVCC of that era shows flatten cam lobes
and bell shaped exhaust guides.  The door sticker in these case
reliably showed use of 10W-40.  The use of straight 30, or 10W-30,
eliminated the problem.

I live in an area that's hotter than yours and I NEVER run anything
thicker than 10W-30...period.  If someone has to run 40, their engine
is worn out or is running way too hot.  Proof of the pudding is that
my FE in my pickup is nearing 200K miles and uses a quart at about
1800 miles.  Of course, FEs were one of the most hardy of all Ford
engines, bar none, but I've seen them worn out at 125K miles due to
bad maintenance and use of overly thick oil.
juanalong - 18 Oct 2006 03:11 GMT
Like I said, it makes for a very good discussion.
You can reference as many reasons why not to use thicker oil
as I can why 5W anything is too thin.
WRONG implies you have substantial research proof that
5W is better the 10W.
Again, depending on which website you visit and whose opinion
you favor, added with your own success, then you will
certainly support the oil grade you're currently using.
By the way, what research have u to prove thinner is better?

Your FE w/200K is using a qtr every 1800 miles? Not surprising.
My 1989 Aerostar ate about the same amount of oil. I was so
fed up with having to monitor the oil consumption I finally
traded it for a 1999 Nissan Quest. Now after almost 150K
miles, the Quest has NEVER ate a drop of oil. I change every
4K and run only Mobile One 10W-30. Maybe that's why
Ford is in trouble !

>>What oil to use and at what grade to use is the subject in almost every
>>newsgroup. It makes for a very good discussion and it educates those who
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
> engines, bar none, but I've seen them worn out at 125K miles due to
> bad maintenance and use of overly thick oil.
C. E. White - 18 Oct 2006 13:46 GMT
> Like I said, it makes for a very good discussion.
> You can reference as many reasons why not to use thicker oil
> as I can why 5W anything is too thin.

For a 5Wanything oil, the 5W is the cold viscositiy that is measured at 32
degrees. In Texas, you should be worried about the anything part (i.e., the
hot viscosity). For a cold engine, the viscosity of the 5Wanything oil is
greater than the viscosity of hot 10W40 oil (hot being around 200 degrees).
So if the viscosity of hot 30 or 40 oil is sufficient for your engine, why
would you thik that 5W oil which is actually more viscous when cold is not
high enough? In fact, you want the oil to flow freely when cold, so 5W oil
is probably better for your engine.

Something else for you to consider  - as motor oil ages, it's viscosity
increases (assuming it is not contaminated by blow-by products). So if you
start out with a 10W40 oil, you are liable to end up with a 20W50 oil afer
3000 miles. Most manufacturers no longer recommend 10W40 oils becasue they
have a tendency to break down. For several years GM mostly recommended 10W30
oil becasue they were worried 5W30 oil would break down more rapidly.
However, even GM now recommends 5W30 over 10W30. As for 5W20 - Why do you
think it is not good enough? I've read SAE papers by Ford, Honda, Toyota,
and even GM engineers discussing 5W20 oil. Not one paper indicated that the
use of 5W20 would harm an engine.

Ed
Sharon Cooke - 18 Oct 2006 15:05 GMT
>>Like I said, it makes for a very good discussion.
>>You can reference as many reasons why not to use thicker oil
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> Ed

There's a lot of "old school" thinking involved among people that insist
on using 10W40 (or whatever) oil in the crankcase of a modern engine.
Back in the day when 100,000 miles on an engine meant it was time for an
overhaul, just about any oil you put in there was meant to keep the
parts from banging together. Today, a 100K miles isn’t that much - my
LOWEST mileage vehicle has 110K miles on it, and oil consumption is
about non-existent, with hot idling oil pressure at 35~40 psi. I use
5W30 Mobil One on all my vehicles, the highest mileage one having 242K
miles on it, using maybe ½ quart between 5K mile changes. Another thing
that’s changed is the cooling systems on cars have become much more
reliable than the “good old days”, and a properly operating cooling
system will KEEP the oil temperature around 200º F (where you want it)
after engine warm-up even if the outside temperature is 0º F or 130º F.
Point is, if the oil is temperature-regulated by the cooling system, and
the temperature gauge doesn’t go up & down with the outside thermometer,
what possible difference does the viscosity of oil make, after engine
warm-up? If someone worries about oil shearing and rapid viscosity loss,
an actual oil pressure (OP) gauge in the vehicle will give peace of
mind, constantly reporting on the OP at the mains.
clare at snyder.on.ca - 18 Oct 2006 05:54 GMT
>>What oil to use and at what grade to use is the subject in almost every
>>newsgroup. It makes for a very good discussion and it educates those who
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>WRONG!  Modern engines have much narrower oil galleries and passages
>and run with narrower clearances...

Show me. Show me the significantly lower clearances. Even show me the
smaller oil galleries. Give me real factory specs. As a (retired)
mechanic, I've not seen it.
I've always been a proponent of higher viscosity oils in high
operating temperatures, and when cold, a 10w and a 10w40 are virtually
the same viscosity. I'm still running 10W40 in my GM 3.8, and Ford
Mystique 2.5 during the summer and I've used 5W30 for the one change
in December, going back to 10W40 in March - and I'm in central
Ontario.
In my daughter's twin-cam '98 neon, we've gone to 20W50 in the summer.
5w30 would pretty well "change itself" - a litre every 100km or so was
normal. I put a quart od MMO in, and switched to 20W50 on the next
change and it has not used a liter between changes since. The MMO may
have freed up sluggish rings, or it may be the 20W50. It'll get
thinner oil for the winter, and we'll see.

>they are designed to use
>multiweights with a low end viscosity of 5W.  10W-40 is almost an
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>that CVCC engines should NOT use 10W-40, as it was too thick when warm
>to provide adequate cam lobe and valve guide lubrication.

To be fair, there were other issues with that engine and just using
lighter oil did NOT solve all the valve guide and cam issues. Also,
not all engines running 10W40 or 20W50 had the problem. I knew of
quite a few 250,000 mile hondas in those days that ran nothing but
10W40 and 20W50 Castrol GTX.

> Sure
>enough, a look inside many a CVCC of that era shows flatten cam lobes
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>engines, bar none, but I've seen them worn out at 125K miles due to
>bad maintenance and use of overly thick oil.

I've personally never seen a lubrication related engine failure on any
engine running 10W40 or 20W50 oil if a QUALITY oil was used, and
changed regularly. In 10 years as service manager at a Toyota shop,
the only timing chain and camshaft issues I EVER saw, were on engines
serviced with 5W30 and 10W30 oil, and even most of them either went
over on the change intervals or ran CHEAP oil. We used Cstrol GTX and
Valvoline fleet master (premium grade bulk) oil in those years.

My choice for a top quality oil today is Rotella "T" 15W40 all-fleet,
but I have not been using it on my current vehicles.

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MaceFace - 18 Oct 2006 03:51 GMT
> The manufacture used 5W20 in the engine when it was certified for CAFE,
> thus must recommend owners use that grade.

If the warranty was of no concern, what oil would you prefer to use in
a new Ford for which 5W-20 was recommended by Ford?
larry moe 'n curly - 18 Oct 2006 03:39 GMT
> My 03 Windstar specifies 5W20 oil, which is rather hard to find.

I recently saw 5W20 Pennzoil even at the local Pep Boys, and I'm in
Arizona, where the hot climate tends to favor thicker oils. OTOH I
haven't seen 0W20 anywhere.
clare at snyder.on.ca - 18 Oct 2006 06:00 GMT
>> My 03 Windstar specifies 5W20 oil, which is rather hard to find.
>
>I recently saw 5W20 Pennzoil even at the local Pep Boys, and I'm in
>Arizona, where the hot climate tends to favor thicker oils. OTOH I
>haven't seen 0W20 anywhere.

And with the experience I've had with Penzoil, it would be the LAST
oil I would put in my car.
The ONLY oil I have ever personally experienced "spontaneous viscosity
loss" with under normal operating conditions. Less than 1000 KM on a
fresh oil change on a Mopar (3.3 Liter?) mini-van and the oil light
came on at highway speeds. Went to the first shop I could find - no
oil pressure at idle, oil thin as kerosene (and NOT diluted with
fuel). Dropped the oil, put in Shell super 10W40, and never had the
problem again (have never used Penzoil again either).

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larry moe 'n curly - 19 Oct 2006 05:46 GMT
clare wrote:

> >> My 03 Windstar specifies 5W20 oil, which is rather hard to find.
> >
> >I recently saw 5W20 Pennzoil even at the local Pep Boys, and I'm in
> >Arizona, where the hot climate tends to favor thicker oils.

> And with the experience I've had with Penzoil, it would be the LAST
> oil I would put in my car.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> fuel). Dropped the oil, put in Shell super 10W40, and never had the
> problem again (have never used Penzoil again either).

But what about now that Shell owns Pennzoil/Quaker State?  Also there's
an old antifreeze FAQ, maybe 8-10 years old, showing that Shell
antifreeze was among those that failed a corrosion test (Texaco
Havoline, Zerex, and Prestone passed).

Is it possible that Pennzoil forgot to put in enough viscosity improver
at the factory, meaning that your 10W-40 (I admit I don't know if
that's what you bought) was actually something like 10W-20 or even
straight 10 weight?  I've heard of bottling factories making mistakes
like that at the start or end of a production run because they don't
flush out the lines (this often happens with milk -- the first bottles
of skim may be whole milk).
clare at snyder.on.ca - 19 Oct 2006 17:00 GMT
>clare wrote:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>flush out the lines (this often happens with milk -- the first bottles
>of skim may be whole milk).

It's possible, but the oil produced pressure for about 4 days, then
all of a sudden lost all semblance of viscosity. It was like fuel oil.
I've had other reports of the same thing happening - several Penzoil
and one cheap 10W30 from Esso.
Putting good oil in restored pressure immediately.

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