In all likelihood it's the fuel pump at this age, but, you need to check the voltage
at the inertia switch in the trunk when you turn the key on. When you cycle the key,
there should be voltage at both terminals for about 3 seconds. If so, it's the pump or
wiring to the tank. If not, look to the fuel pump relay. I know it's a crude test, but
give it a  shot of ether. If it fires and dies then the problem is likely from the
relay  to the pump. If it doesn't fire it's a concern with the EEC-IV system.
 There is no access hole, you must remove the tank to get to the pump. It is mounted
on the fuel sender assembly inside the tank. I don't know where you are located, but
be prepared to replace the fuel sender assembly also. The tubes to the sender are
prone to rust. Even if they don't leak now, once you disturb them they will. If the
rust is light  (and you are in a temperate climate) this won't be a concern. If the
rust is "flaky" anywhere on either tube then replace the whole sender.
 The design of the tank puts the outside of the sender in a depression in the top of
the tank. That depression holds moisture, dirt, mud, and SALT that splashes up there
during use and leads to rust.

 After typing all of this I remembered that your 85 may have 2 fuel pumps. If the car
has fuel injection that looks kinda like a carburetor (CFI) then it does have 2 pumps.
The system is a bit more complicated.  One pump in the tank (low pressure) and one
pump on the right frame rail (high pressure). Cycle the key from off to on and listen
to the pump on the frame and at the tank. If one runs but not the other, the dead one
is likely bad. If they both don't run, the problem is likely the relay or upstream in
the circuit. The same caveats about rust on the tank sender apply.

Check the impact shut-off in the trunk, too.  II think it sits atop the left
rear wheel well.  Big button on the top.

PoD