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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Cars / April 2007my 92 Ranger manual valve question
OK, even though I got no respose to my question about taking the manual valve out without losing anything, I decided that I would go ahead and remove it. So, if anyone wants to know, yes, you can take the manual valve out of a A4LD transmission while still in the truck. I loosened the valve body up a bit so it would slide out, but it did, and it should go back in just as easy. However, now I have a question on where I can find a manual valve without having to replace the entire valve body. Any ideas of a good source? I do feel I can finish it myself without any advice, (since nobody does seem to know about the A4LD transmission here), but I need to find a source for the part. Any ideas? Ford wanted $300 for a new valve body. Stu Aside from the fact that nobody knows why you are zoning in on the manual valve.... one of the things I have never seen a concern with in the A4LD..... And now that you have the valve in your hot, little paw with no description of what you see for concerns... What is ther to be said? You seem to know everything there is to know and woe betide me if I make any suggestions. All I can suggest is a wreckers for the valve spool (good luck). FWIW, don't let little niggling facts like me doing this stuff for nearly 40 years sway your better judgement. > OK, even though I got no respose to my question about taking the > manual valve out without losing anything, I decided that I would go [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Stu > FWIW, don't let little niggling facts like me doing this stuff for nearly 40 > years sway your better judgement. Hi Jim. Whats happened to this n/g? Used to be crowded with friendly help. Would you please share a little of that experience with me. Just swapped manifolds on the 4.6 (finally) and I wonder if there are any "do's and dont's" for the injectors. I have replaced the O-rings on the bottom end and wonder, should I install the injectors first, then the rail or vice versa or does it even matter? TIA, Frank Part of what is happening to this NG is assumption.... Someone assumes that we will remember his posts about a 92 Ranger.... and flatly states that he knows what he's doing but can't realize that the valve body and spools are sold as an assembly because of the tight tolerances required. Incidentally, we aren't aware of his concern with the manual valve and, if there was a concern with this valve, it would be obvious to the naked eye or to the gentle touch. Speaking of assumptions... I assume that this 4.6 is older and has several miles on it. As far as installing the injectors, it is whatever works for you... either way is easy as long as due care and attention is given. For the O-rings.... The lower O-rings only seal up to about 20 inches of vacuum while the uppers must seal up to something like 60 PSI of gasoline. Now, your upper O-rings *may* be good enough to return to service... or they may not. I can't tell from here. If there was even a shred of doubt, O-rings are cheap... much cheaper than a fire from leaking fuel.. Doing a job such as this in a professional venue, I wouldn't hesitate to replace those O-rings.... without inspecting them... because it is the logical thing to do to avoid a concern with leaking fuel. There is no magic to this stuff... no smoke and no mirrors.... Careful thought and a basic understanding of the system is all that is required. It isn't just a matter of undoing bolts and then doing them back up. >> FWIW, don't let little niggling facts like me doing this stuff for nearly >> 40 years sway your better judgement. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > TIA, Frank Jim, I was not assuming anything. I posted a question, got no response. I was not mad or anything like that. The only reason I removed the manual valve is that sometime it got bent. When it got bent, it didn't move in and out. Hence, it got stuck in drive. Would not go back to park. At first I wanted to know if it could be replaced. Got no response, so I decided to take it out. I just thought this was a group to ask questions about Ford Vehicles. I have noticed that this has changed to having my dog create greenhouse gasses and that Toyota lies, but everyone here loves them because most posts are about some bashing of Fords. I LOVE my Fords, and would rather have a rusty old Ranger than a Toyota. I am from the old school that says we support our own. I work for an American company, so I would hope that others would support my company as I try to buy from American companies. As far as my valve, I am going to look for one around town, and if I cannot find one, then I will be purchasing a rebuilt valve body. Until today, I had never touched the inside of a transmission except to change the fluid in my Taurus. Never said anywher that I was an expert, just asked some advice and I felt that I could put it together since I figured how to get it apart. Sorry to bother you for asking a Ford question in a Ford newsgroup. Seems as if I may have been off topic. Won't happen again. Again, I am truly sorry to take up anyone's time. Stu >Part of what is happening to this NG is assumption.... > [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] >> >> TIA, Frank Stu... don't misunderstand me..... If I appear brusque or seem annoyed, this is just my nature.... I open my mouth and whatever it is I am thinking falls out. I mean no ill will to anyone and offer only what advice I can.... the way I state if often takes some by surprise but being "genteel" or politically correct are two things that I will never be accused of. > Speaking of assumptions... I assume that this 4.6 is older and has several > miles on it. As far as installing the injectors, it is whatever works for > you... either way is easy as long as due care and attention is given. Yes, its a 97 with 170 K. I should have added that. > For the O-rings.... The lower O-rings only seal up to about 20 inches of > vacuum while the uppers must seal up to something like 60 PSI of gasoline. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > O-rings.... without inspecting them... because it is the logical thing to do > to avoid a concern with leaking fuel. Well it went back together smoothly doing the rail last. Replaced all the bottom O-rings and left the top as they were. Cost wasn't the concern, just my first go at R&R fuel injectors and the replacement package only contained 12 O-rings which left me kind of confused. Got it finished before your reply or I would have replaced all. I will check closely before lighting it up. > There is no magic to this stuff... no smoke and no mirrors.... Careful > thought and a basic understanding of the system is all that is required. It > isn't just a matter of undoing bolts and then doing them back up. Now that I've done it I have an understanding of the system but I was definitely in the unbolt, bolt mode going in. Thanks for sharing your insights. Very much appreciated. I'm retired on fixed income and this n/g has helped me save some serious $$ which in turn allows my wife to buy more useless stuff at yard sales. ;) Frank I can sympathise on the "yard sales"... My wife is a true Canadian - she spends 10% more than I earn making retirement something that other people get to do (I can't picture myself retired, anyway). Word of advice... move north... This winter we had snow on the ground for 7 months... Not a yard sale to be found in that whole time. > I can sympathise on the "yard sales"... My wife is a true Canadian - she > spends 10% more than I earn making retirement something that other people > get to do (I can't picture myself retired, anyway). > > Word of advice... move north... This winter we had snow on the ground for 7 > months... Not a yard sale to be found in that whole time. Move north? Fat chance, I live in Los Angeles, yard sale heaven. And my wife....., she's from Canada also. What is it with these Canucks? Small world, eh? On the plus side, I haven't bought a new T-shirt or pair of Levi's in 10 years. :) Where are you that you had all that snow? Slave Lake, Alberta... we are roughly at the same lattitude as Ketchikan, Alaska but without the temoprizing affect of the ocean. We have four seasons... almost winter, winter, still winter and construction.... Strangely enough, I wouldn't trade it for the world. Google Earth..... 55 degree 16' 40" North 114 degrees 46' West.... > Slave Lake, Alberta... we are roughly at the same lattitude as Ketchikan, > Alaska but without the temoprizing affect of the ocean. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Google Earth..... 55 degree 16' 40" North 114 degrees 46' West.... I can't *imagine* myself working on a car in such climate. My better half was born in Winnipeg Manitoba. > Slave Lake, Alberta... we are roughly at the same lattitude as Ketchikan, > Alaska but without the temoprizing affect of the ocean. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Google Earth..... 55 degree 16' 40" North 114 degrees 46' West.... Not much daylight in December eh? OTOH, you'll be able to work outside close to midnight in a month or so. Does it get completely dark in June or is there still a twilight glow on the northern horizon at midnight? You also live in a great place for seeing the northern lights. Yes on the northern lights..... Around the summer solstice, the sky is blue to the north even at 2 in the AM. In December/January..... when I drive to work in the morning (7:45ish)... it is dark..... If I leave work on time (5:00ish)... it is dark.... >> Slave Lake, Alberta... we are roughly at the same lattitude as Ketchikan, >> Alaska but without the temoprizing affect of the ocean. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > the northern horizon at midnight? You also live in a great place for > seeing the northern lights. On an eery note.... I was looking for an unrelated file I recalled seeing on putfile and saw this vid http://media.putfile.com/driven-around-town It was an odd feeling when I realized I recognized the scenery..... > On an eery note.... I was looking for an unrelated file I recalled seeing on > putfile and saw this vid http://media.putfile.com/driven-around-town > > It was an odd feeling when I realized I recognized the scenery..... Do they salt the roads much up there? It's a real problem here in the northeast US. Every car I've owned had to be replaced because of rust in a structural area that couldn't be repaired economically. I never had to get rid of a car due to mechanical failure of the engine or transmission. It's not uncommon here to have a 'salt car' which is sacrificed in the winter to save the body on your warm weather car. The highway departments got the drivers used to having bare roads within hours of a snow storm. Now they couldn't use less salt if they wanted to. They're afraid of being sued if someone has an accident caused by a slippery road. |
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