 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Ford / Ford Cars / June 20074.6 Alternator?
When I start/run my 94 Tbird 4.6 (66k mi.), I hear a hi-pitched "Grrrrrrrrrrrrr", sorta grinding (but not loud) noise. So I place the male end of a long socket extension on the alt. housing, stick the female end in my ear, and I hear the same sound and feel the vibrations. Alternator bearings? If so, rebuild the alt.?? Thx, Peetie Relieve the tension on the serpentine belt and spin the alternator by hand. If the bearing is shot, you will know by feel. While at it you can do the same with the tensioner, water pump, etc. > When I start/run my 94 Tbird 4.6 (66k mi.), I hear a hi-pitched > "Grrrrrrrrrrrrr", sorta grinding (but not loud) noise. So I place [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Alternator bearings? If so, rebuild the alt.?? > Relieve the tension on the serpentine belt and spin the alternator by hand. > If the bearing is shot, you will know by feel. While at it you can do the > same with the tensioner, water pump, etc. In my case, on a '96 4.6, the "etc" was the A/C compressor bearing. It seemed to make the noise whether the A/C was engaged or not, which I thought was odd.  SignatureClarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5 >> Relieve the tension on the serpentine belt and spin the alternator by hand. >> If the bearing is shot, you will know by feel. While at it you can do the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >It seemed to make the noise whether the A/C was engaged or not, which I >thought was odd. Compressor CLUTCH bearing. The clutch spins all the time, compressor running or not. Can usually be replaced without replacing the compressor or even opening the system. SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >When I start/run my 94 Tbird 4.6 (66k mi.), I hear a hi-pitched >"Grrrrrrrrrrrrr", sorta grinding (but not loud) noise. So I place [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Thx, > Peetie If you are patient, that alternator is easily rebuilt. the small bearing at the rear is usually not instock at a parts hous but, is usually the one that goes bad. I just bought a full rebuild kit for mine on ebay - I was tipped off to the seller by another member here - check out: >I just bought a full rebuild kit for mine on ebay - I was tipped off to the >seller by another member here - check out: I got the bearings and brushes from the local Bumper2Bumper Parts. Total cost under $15US. Lugnut >>When I start/run my 94 Tbird 4.6 (66k mi.), I hear a hi-pitched >>"Grrrrrrrrrrrrr", sorta grinding (but not loud) noise. So I place [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >small bearing at the rear is usually not instock at a parts >hous but, is usually the one that goes bad. I wiggle the alt. pulley side to side and hear a little clunk-clunk. Spin it and hear the lo grinding sound. How difficult to rebuild? What special tools? If my (junk) Haynes manual depicts anything correctly, the front bearing is ball, the back is like a bushing. If the right part is on a workbench/vise, do ya just tap the rear bearing out, tap the new one in? Thx, Peetie >How difficult to rebuild? What special tools? If my (junk) Haynes >manual depicts anything correctly, the front bearing is ball, the >back is like a bushing. If the right part is on a workbench/vise, >do ya just tap the rear bearing out, tap the new one in? The only tricky part to doing the bearings in an alternator is making a pin/tool to hold the brushes retracted as you get the two halves of the alternator case mated and back together. Then the pin has to pull out and let the brushes pop into working position on the rotor slip rings, without getting hung up. If you're changing the bearings, install a fresh set of brushes at the same time. That's another wear item that can give you troubles, and you don't need to do the whole job over again next month... --<< Bruce >>-- > >How difficult to rebuild? What special tools? If my (junk) Haynes > >manual depicts anything correctly, the front bearing is ball, the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > making a pin/tool to hold the brushes retracted as you get the two > halves of the alternator case mated and back together. I seem to recall that a paperclip works well. > Then the pin has to pull out and let the brushes pop into working > position on the rotor slip rings, without getting hung up. Richard Thanks go to Bruce and Richard. I can't tackle it now (it's 140 F in my garage), but it's on my to-do list. Cheers, Peetie >> >How difficult to rebuild? What special tools? If my (junk) Haynes >> >manual depicts anything correctly, the front bearing is ball, the [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >> >Richard |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2010 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.