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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Cars / November 2007

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Air Pump Check Valve [Revised]

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Joe Colella - 24 Nov 2007 17:33 GMT
My air pump check valve (Ford: E9VE-9A487-AB) that attached
to the pipe leading to the heads broke off the pipe at the nut
on my 93 Mustang GT.

When I attempted to remove the nut off the pipe, I bent/crimped the
pipe between the elbow of the pipe and the threads where the nut
from the air pump check valve would attach; the bend/crimp is
closer to the threads than to the elbow and having cut the pipe
toward the elbow I now can see the bend/crimp has only reduced the
"ID" of the pipe by 20%.

I have successfully removed the old nut from the threaded end of
the pipe and attached a new air pump check valve to the old end of
the pipe.  My plan is to now re-attach the end of the pipe to the
rest of the pipe with a high-temperature hose and hose clamps

All things considered, is this a stupid idea or should I simply
replace the pipe?

Replacing the pipe seems to be a pain in the butt since there is
not a lot of space to remove the bolt holding the pipe to the block
nearest the valve; although the other bolt seems to be more
accessible.  (If I have to replace the pipe, are there any tricks
to removing the two bolts that attach the pipe to the block?)

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Joe
bob - 24 Nov 2007 20:07 GMT
> My air pump check valve (Ford: E9VE-9A487-AB) that attached
> to the pipe leading to the heads broke off the pipe at the nut
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> Joe

How hot would it get?
(can't picture just where you are working at)
If near the air pump, hose would work.
not sure where you would get a replacement pipe, except the junk yards.
(20% should not hurt, not much air volume needed to cats)

--87, and 93  5.0  8#
MasterBlaster - 25 Nov 2007 20:09 GMT
> > My air pump check valve (Ford: E9VE-9A487-AB) that attached
> > to the pipe leading to the heads broke off the pipe at the nut
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> not sure where you would get a replacement pipe, except the junk yards.
> (20% should not hurt, not much air volume needed to cats)

I hope I've got it right...

I'll assume it's the valve between the [ brackets ]...
http://i19.tinypic.com/6jugemo.jpg
and that the pipe was cut off just to the rear of the threaded end that the
upper check valve screws onto, leaving a naked pipe from the rear,
and the remaining short "stub" successfully attached to the new valve.
High-temp silicone hose should work okay. It's the same stuff most kits
use to connect the lower pipe to aftermarket cats. Lots of heat there too.
biggus - 26 Nov 2007 02:20 GMT
>> > My air pump check valve (Ford: E9VE-9A487-AB) that attached
>> > to the pipe leading to the heads broke off the pipe at the nut
[quoted text clipped - 43 lines]
> High-temp silicone hose should work okay. It's the same stuff most kits
> use to connect the lower pipe to aftermarket cats. Lots of heat there too.

should work ok,
upper pipe can't get really hot, firewall stuff is next to it
dont see how one could get another pipe anyway, unless someone had a scrap
moter pulled somewhere.
hope I don't have to replace that stuff on my 93,
not much room on passenger side for stuff/changes
Joe Colella - 26 Nov 2007 05:27 GMT
>> > My air pump check valve (Ford: E9VE-9A487-AB) that attached
>> > to the pipe leading to the heads broke off the pipe at the nut
[quoted text clipped - 43 lines]
> High-temp silicone hose should work okay. It's the same stuff most kits
> use to connect the lower pipe to aftermarket cats. Lots of heat there too.

MasterBlaster,

You are absolutely right... Cool pic!

Thanks!

Joe
 
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