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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Cars / December 2007Repairing the Power Windows?
1994 t-bird, the driver's side power window no longer has the gears/teeth in it to move the window UP. It makes this ERRRR loud noise when you try to go up or down. How do you access the motor? Is it something DIY? thanks > 1994 t-bird, the driver's side power window no longer has the > gears/teeth in it to move the window UP. It makes this ERRRR loud > noise when you try to go up or down. > > How do you access the motor? Is it something DIY? The DIY depends on the individual. I just paid a guy 60.00 to install a window regulator on my 97 Bird. Local shop wanted about 150.00. I managed to download some instructions for Fords from the Internet but I seem to have lost the link. I used them mostly to get an idea of what was involved. I just did a DIY on the intake manifold but I passed on the window. I have some Word.docs with pictures. If you would like to take a look, e-mail me and I'll send them. Frank >1994 t-bird, the driver's side power window no longer has the >gears/teeth in it to move the window UP. It makes this ERRRR loud >noise when you try to go up or down. The drivers window on my 94 TB was dragging a couple years ago, and I knew the motor was a common replacement. I found the mechanism to be improperly lubed and partially rusted. I greased it up as best I could and it's been working OK. Kept some notes. >How do you access the motor? There's 2 inserts in the big door panel. One is decorative, the other has elec. controls for windows, etc. The latter is held in place with 3-4 tabs. Pry it out -very- carefully. Disconnect the insert elec. connector. Remove the metal screw on the black wire. Remove the old-style door lock actuator. The big panel just locks on a set of hooks, all pointing up. Lift up on the big door panel. May have to jog it a bit. Turn the control insert to fit it thru the hole so you can set the panel aside. There's a full-panel sheet of clear plastic that should stick to the door. Remove it. Then you can see what you're up against. >Is it something DIY? It's worth a peek. I'd clean/lube the mechanism, then see what it does. If the window still doesn't work, you should be able to assess difficulty of replacing the motor. Didn't look easy to work with. Good Luck, Puddin' "Well, there's two trains runnin'. Ain't neither one goin' my way. One run at midnight, the other run just before day." - from "Still A Fool", Muddy Waters, maybe 1949 >Disconnect the insert elec. connector. Remove the metal >screw on the black wire. Remove the old-style door lock actuator. Slight correction. Should have read: >Disconnect the door panel light connector. Remove the metal >screw on the black wire. Remove the old-style door lock actuator. The rest might pass muster. :-) P "Well, there's two trains runnin'. Ain't neither one goin' my way. One run at midnight, the other run just before day." - from "Still A Fool", Muddy Waters, maybe 1949 >>Disconnect the insert elec. connector. Remove the metal >>screw on the black wire. Remove the old-style door lock actuator. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > the other run just before day." > - from "Still A Fool", Muddy Waters, maybe 1949 K, thanks! >>1994 t-bird, the driver's side power window no longer has the >>gears/teeth in it to move the window UP. It makes this ERRRR loud [quoted text clipped - 45 lines] > the other run just before day." > - from "Still A Fool", Muddy Waters, maybe 1949 Thanks for those detals...Will give this a try on a day EARLY in case I F it UP more... ;-) > 1994 t-bird, the driver's side power window no longer has the > gears/teeth in it to move the window UP. It makes this ERRRR loud [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > thanks These fords have I think have three plastic balls in between the window motor and the regulator. find replacements but before reassembly clean all the plastic debri from where these balls came apart and grease well. it is not normal pratice to use steel bearings but if you can find aluminum ball about the size needed then why not. >> 1994 t-bird, the driver's side power window no longer has the >> gears/teeth in it to move the window UP. It makes this ERRRR loud [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >it is not normal pratice to use steel bearings but if you can find aluminum >ball about the size needed then why not. The "why not" is probably that those balls are meant to shear or ratchet as a safety clutch if the window jams, so the motor doesn't sit there stalled and get melted. Before modifying a system you have to fully understand how it works. If it's only an overriding roller clutch, steel or aluminum bearing balls will probably work - but you have to add some grease because the plastic balls would be self lubricating. And consider where the excess or melted grease would go, that might be why they used the plastic rollers because the grease would gum up something else. If they are meant to be a safety shear element, get the right plastic pieces and do it the way it was designed. --<< Bruce >>-- >> 1994 t-bird, the driver's side power window no longer has the >> gears/teeth in it to move the window UP. It makes this ERRRR loud [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > it is not normal pratice to use steel bearings but if you can find > aluminum ball about the size needed then why not. on the same lines...... Look for a clutch kit for the motor. ALOT cheaper than the whole motor. |
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