On Aug 30, 3:46 pm, Bruce L. Bergman
<blnospamberg...@earthlink.invalid> wrote:
> The current switch stops working and then works again and so on. I
> didn't have time to look at it today, I had other important things to
> do but tomorrow I will be back at it.
> I really think there might be something wrong with the pedal as the
> second switch I replaced I really tried to adjust it perfectly with my
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> right by my house has been kind enough to pick me up on "bad brake
> light switch day".
I assume you have the metal threaded switch and locknut, with a plastic plunger?
(This is the non-cruise-control style)
http://info.rockauto.com/SMP/SMPDetail2.html?SLS133.jpg
For 91-96, Autozone says (among other things)...
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/d9/54/0900823d8013d954/repai
rInfoPages.htm
5. Install the switch on the pedal (and finger-tighten the switch locknut).
10. Turn the brake light switch until it contacts the pedal, then turn it an additional half turn.
(I think that means the plastic plunger, not the metal body)
11. Tighten the switch locknut to 10-13 ft. lbs. (14-17 Nm).
97-99 doesn't mention any "adjustment", but I assume it's the same.
> a co-worker that drives right by my house has been kind enough to
> pick me up on "bad brake light switch day".
If you have another "bad switch day", you should still be able to start the car by
unplugging the switch, and shorting the two wires together with a paper clip or
similar, then turning the key. Remove the clip, plug the switch back in, and drive
to work with extra care, because your brake lights might not be working.
MasterBlaster - 31 Aug 2008 10:27 GMT
> 10. Turn the brake light switch until it contacts the pedal, then turn it an additional half turn.
> (I think that means the plastic plunger, not the metal body)
Sorry, to clarify, the body does the turning, the plunger does the contacting. :-)
varois83 - 31 Aug 2008 16:00 GMT
> > The current switch stops working and then works again and so on. I
> > didn't have time to look at it today, I had other important things to
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> For 91-96, Autozone says (among other things)...http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/d9/54/0900823d801...
MasterBlaster
I appreciate the help and the links. I will try to follow their
instructions but with a Ford purchased switch.
I have one question regarding your instructions, they say to
disconnect the negative battery cable, is it for my own safety or
could it mess the installation in some way because I never
disconnected it in prior switch changes?
Thanks again for the help.
Patrick
Bob Bailin - 31 Aug 2008 16:52 GMT
>> > The current switch stops working and then works again and so on. I
>> > didn't have time to look at it today, I had other important things to
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>
> Patrick
It's for your own safety and for the car's safety whenever you're working
on the electrical system, so you don't accidently short out a circuit and
damage another component like, say, the computer. In reality, it's very
unlikely this will happen when replacing the brake switch, and most
people don't because you'll lose the learned engine settings and more
importantly, your radio preset stations.
Bob
varois83 - 31 Aug 2008 18:41 GMT
Hi
Well the part is working right now. I checked the wiring I don't see
anything wrong, I tried to move the part half a turn in and half a
turn out and it stops working so I have it in there just right, it is
not an adjustment problem.
I will get a Ford part on Tuesday and replace this one as I suspect
those generic parts don't work as well as the original. If it fails
then I will take the car to the shop as it would be either wiring or
pedal and be beyond my scope.
Patrick