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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Cars / October 200894 Ranger battery lite on dash, 2.3 engine. . Do I need a alternator or a regulator?.
When battery lite comes on what is the problem? The ammeter shows little o no charge at that time. Is the alternator done or is their a regulator tha is sticking 7 then working for a few minutes? Where is the regulato located on a 94 Ranger, 2.3 eng. Is the alternator done or is it th regulator need replacing? Thank you. - Message posted using http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/alt.autos.ford More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.htm >When battery lite comes on what is the problem? The ammeter shows little or >no charge at that time. Is the alternator done or is their a regulator that >is sticking 7 then working for a few minutes? Where is the regulator >located on a 94 Ranger, 2.3 eng. Is the alternator done or is it the >regulator need replacing? Thank you. IIRC, the regulator is integral with the alternator. A reman/recon/new alternator will include the regulator. The regulator can likely be independantly replaced but, most I have seen cost a large chunk of what an alrernator cost making it unadviseable to just replace the regulator especially if the alternator has some miles on it. Lugnut you can take the truck to a shop or autozone to get the stsrtem tested free maybe. if in doubt replace them both. usually the reg is on the front fenderwell sometimes beside the battery. ---------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm > you can take the truck to a shop or autozone to get the stsrtem >tested free maybe. if in doubt replace them both. usually the reg is on >the front fenderwell sometimes beside the battery. AutoZone no longer loans out OBD Scanners in California, from what I can tell (they won't say) they got sued for overselling parts based on what "the scanner said". But they might loan you a voltmeter... Get a decent digital voltmeter and connect across the battery set on the 0-20 DC Volts scale. With the car running at fast idle (above 2,000 RPM) to get full output, you should see 13.8V to 14.5V output from a good alternator - 15.0V if it's really hot outside, it's temperature compensated to match what the battery needs. If you see anything under 12.6V, there's your problem... The "Usual Suspect" on all car alternators is that the rotor brushes wear out - two small carbon brushes that ride on hard copper slip rings on the rotor, to supply variable DC voltage to the magnet windings on the rotor that control the output. Brushes cost ~$5 to replace, but you get a fresh set with any remanufactured alternator, and they have checked all the other wear parts (bearings) and tested it. --<< Bruce >>-- > When battery lite comes on what is the problem? The ammeter shows little or > no charge at that time. Is the alternator done or is their a regulator that [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Message posted usinghttp://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/alt.autos.ford/ > More information athttp://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html What you have is Motorcrafts "3-G" alternator. adn I imagine you have 130+ thousand miles on it. Chances are the brush's are worn out, but that's not all. If you take a look at the back of the alternator you will find a gray module that your t-pin connector plugs into. take a T-20 torks wrench and remove the 4 screws and the volt reg/brush assy willbe easily removed. You'll see that the brush's are worn down to the wires (or close enough) and you can replace the brush module with no problem. BUT you will probably find that the slip rings, (especially one is worn down to the plastic underneath it. I hardly see any of those units burned out, but lots of them with worn rotors. if that be the case then unless you have a fair shop available to do the work, it will need a rotor, brush set and berings. in other words you need to get an exchange unit. |
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