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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Cars / October 20081998 Ford Taurus blower motor
This summer my brother in laws Tarus air conditioner quit. To make a long story short after checking just about everything, I found a relay in the engine compartment was bad. It looked like the relay had some burn markings on one of the terminals. He replaced the relay and it worked for about a few weeks. Also at this time the air only worked don high so he drove around constantly with the air on high. (I am sure this was probably due to the blower motor resistor.). Anyway now it does not work again. I replaced the relay and still nothing. I have no voltage to the harness that plugs into the blower motor. I took the blower motor out and connected it to a batters. When I touched the wires at the batter it sparked pretty bright and started spinning. So I assume the blower motor is ok. There is no voltage at the harness that plugs into the resistor. There is not voltage to any of the four wires going to the fan control switch. (I am not sure if there is supposed ot be or not?) One thing I noticed is when I was origionally checking around with a tester, where this relay pluged into the power distribution panel, I origionally had voltage on two of the places the relay plugs in, now I only have one. I dont have anything that explains what the fuses and relays go to, but I believe I tested everythign in the fuse panel and it was ok. What can I do to figure this out, he has no heat and just got layed off so I am trying to help him and his young son. Can anyone explain to me what the wires to the relay go to and where I can go from here? > This summer my brother in laws Tarus air conditioner quit. To make a > long story short after checking just about everything, I found a relay [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > Can anyone explain to me what the wires to the relay go to and where I > can go from here? > This summer my brother in laws Tarus air conditioner quit. To make a > long story short after checking just about everything, I found a relay [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > Can anyone explain to me what the wires to the relay go to and where I > can go from here? The blower motor is bad, It is drawing too much current and overloading components back upstream. It finally took out the thermal limiter in the resistor pack. You could replace the resistor pack and make the blower "work", but it will fail again soon if you don't replace the motor. > > This summer my brother in laws Tarus air conditioner quit. To make a > > long story short after checking just about everything, I found a relay [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Shouldnt the blower work even if the resister is bad? (Just blow on high?). How can I tell if it is drawing too much current? use a DC (Direct Current) amp probe, clamp it around 1 of the wires feeding the blower motor, > Shouldnt the blower work even if the resister is bad? (Just blow on > high?). > > How can I tell if it is drawing too much current? > use a DC (Direct Current) amp probe, clamp it around 1 of the wires > feeding the blower motor, [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > - Show quoted text - I gues I cant check it because all I have is a voltmeter. > > use a DC (Direct Current) amp probe, clamp it around 1 of the wires > > feeding the blower motor, [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > I gues I cant check it because all I have is a voltmeter. How do you know the blower motor is the culprit? >> Shouldnt the blower work even if the resister is bad? (Just blow on >> high?). Yes. If you get no High, it's motor, or wiring, or switch... >> How can I tell if it is drawing too much current? > >use a DC (Direct Current) amp probe, clamp it around 1 of the wires >feeding the blower motor, A DC Amp-Clamp? Them things is /expensive/!! The Fluke 336 (600A) is $325 and the 337 (999A) is close to $400 - I'm a working Electrician and haven't found an excuse to buy one yet. The B&K 316 is $175, but the current only goes to 100A - would work for this, but it's too small for car starters and electric vehicles. If you're going to spend big bucks on good tools, spend them wisely. An inline ammeter will work, and is plenty accurate enough - if the heater blower motor is supposed to draw 6A and is fused at 15A (EXAMPLE - your numbers may vary!), you can see the difference between the 6A target and 12A reality even on a cruddy meter. Then you look for a new motor, because either something's physically rubbing on the fan wheel or the motor bearings are toast. --<< Bruce >>-- > A DC Amp-Clamp? Them things is /expensive/!! The Fluke 336 (600A) > is $325 and the 337 (999A) is close to $400 - I'm a working [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > for a new motor, because either something's physically rubbing on the > fan wheel or the motor bearings are toast. Now days Amp Clamps are part of fixing stuff without damaging wiring harnesses. Cut 'n splice is a no no and only done if necessary. I'm a appliance tech and don't leave home without my MeterMan that Amp clamps, meter and temp probe. all in one. Wiring harness is like veins, you can prick them but don't cut them unless necessary. Low voltage, high amp circuits are tough on connections and splicing done by the average guy. >> A DC Amp-Clamp? Them things is /expensive/!! The Fluke 336 (600A) >> is $325 and the 337 (999A) is close to $400 - I'm a working [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >Low voltage, high amp circuits are tough on connections and splicing done by >the average guy. Agreed, but Hall Effect probe DC Amp amp clamps are an unusual feature and cost another fifty to hundred bucks above the norm. I've never seen them on a 'base model'. If you work as a mechanic or appliance tech all day and have a regular need for the tool, fine, but most people will fix this problem once in a lifetime. For them, buying a decent $50 digital VOM with a 10A or 20A shunt type inline DC Amp range is plenty, and will get used for other things. You can do it with a standard multimeter with an 'inline' amp range with no cutting required - every fan motor I've seen has a power connector near it so you can replace the motor. You can get a pair of the proper tab connectors and make a test jumper on the ground side, and have your meter leads clipped in the hot side. --<< Bruce >>-- |
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