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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Cars / December 2008How do I get to the >>AIR FILTER ?? arrrgghgh!
I have an E-250 Ford Econoline Van . . . but I think the setup may be identical for E-250 trucks (?). I researched and bought the air filter (a Fram CA8039, which is the same as the Motorcraft FA-1632). It's a cone-style air filter. Anyway, I got it home, opened the hood, and . . . couldn't figure out how to get the plastic "enclosure" unit opened to get to the AIR FILTER. It has a clip (that's simple enough) but beyond that I don't know what I'm doing. And why don't I know what I'm doing? Because Ford has NOT ONE instruction or graphic in their miserable little manual telling me how to get at the !#^!%!*&#^!$ AIR FILTER. It's been years since I changed an air filter, and obviously the technology is completely different now because I can't even SEE the filter! :( Used to be so easy tsk. Round. A wingnut. Visible. I can't believe how much time I've wasted trying to research this. Could someone kindly tell me what I have to do to get at my air filter? Thank you everyone. Unbelievable. MC >I have an E-250 Ford Econoline Van . . . but I think the setup may be > identical for E-250 trucks (?). [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > MC Don't know what year you own, but here's the instructions for a 2002: Removal 1. Lift the air cleaner inlet tube and remove. 2. Unlatch the clamp and remove the air cleaner tray. 3. Remove the air cleaner (ACL) element (9601). Installation 1. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Good luck! SC Tom > Don't know what year you own, but here's the instructions for a 2002: > > Removal > > 1. Lift the air cleaner inlet tube and remove. Tom . . . I there is no reference to an "inlet tube" and, for an idea of just how pathetic a user guide I have, I've taken a screenshot of the only useful page in the whole friggin' book: http://www.flickr.com/photos/33243580@N05/3101524878/sizes/o In other words, a vague reference to the general location of something called the "Air Filter Assembly" . . . and NOTHING else! No inlet tube. No detail. Nothing containing the phrase "Air Filter" in the whole stupid book, with the exception of #4 on the graphic I've uploaded, and what it's name is. Certainly not any instructions to OPEN IT. arggghh. You see why this is so frustrating? I can't believe I'm actually going to have shell out $50 to someone just to show me how to put in my goddamned air filter because FORD MOTOR CO. IS SO CHEAP THEY LEFT IT OUT OF THE MANUAL! I don't know how you could possibly describe to me where this is, since I have no schematic (worth a damn) for the basic components of my engine. I've spent days on this and you can tell how frustrated I am lol. Thank you for any and all help you can provide. MC On Dec 11, 1:58 pm, "SC Tom" <s...@tom.net> wrote: > Don't know what year you own, but here's the instructions for a 2002: > > Removal > > 1. Lift the air cleaner inlet tube and remove. Tom . . . I there is no reference to an "inlet tube" and, for an idea of just how pathetic a user guide I have, I've taken a screenshot of the only useful page in the whole friggin' book: http://www.flickr.com/photos/33243580@N05/3101524878/sizes/o In other words, a vague reference to the general location of something called the "Air Filter Assembly" . . . and NOTHING else! No inlet tube. No detail. Nothing containing the phrase "Air Filter" in the whole stupid book, with the exception of #4 on the graphic I've uploaded, and what it's name is. Certainly not any instructions to OPEN IT. arggghh. You see why this is so frustrating? I can't believe I'm actually going to have shell out $50 to someone just to show me how to put in my goddamned air filter because FORD MOTOR CO. IS SO CHEAP THEY LEFT IT OUT OF THE MANUAL! I don't know how you could possibly describe to me where this is, since I have no schematic (worth a damn) for the basic components of my engine. I've spent days on this and you can tell how frustrated I am lol. Thank you for any and all help you can provide. MC ----------------- I feel your pain. Most of the manuals I deal with have pictures drawn by 1st graders. Here's the picture for a 1996 4.9l engine (I don't have the CD for a 1998): http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=15cznc&s=4 Here's the numbering: _____________Â_________________________________________________________________¿ ³ Item ³ Part Number ³ Description _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ 1 ³ 6A768 ³ Crankcase Vent Filter _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ 2 ³ 9E926 ³ Throttle Body _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ 3 ³ 9B659 ³ Air Cleaner Outlet Tube _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ 4 ³ -- ³ Clamp, Air Cleaner Outlet Tube (Part of ³ ³ ³ ³ 9R504) _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ 5 ³ 12B579 ³ Air Meter ³ _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ 6 ³ 9600 ³ Engine Air Cleaner ³ _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ 7 ³ N605889-S53B ³ Air Cleaner Bracket Screw (4 Req'd) ³ _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ 8 ³ 17A605 ³ Windshield Washer Hose ³ _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ 9 ³ 16138 ³ Radiator Support, Upper ³ _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ 10 ³ 9626 ³ Engine Air Cleaner Mounting Bracket ³ _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ 11 ³ N621907-S2 ³ Nut, M6 ³ _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ 12 ³ N606675-S2 ³ Bolt, M6-3-1 x 16 ³ ³ ³ ³ (5 Req'd) ³ _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ 13 ³ 9F823 ³ Engine Intake Air Resonator ³ _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ A ³ -- ³ Tighten to 1.4-2.3 N-m ³ ³ ³ ³ (12-20 Lb-In) ³ _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ B ³ -- ³ Tighten to 8-11 N-m ³ ³ ³ ³ (71-97 Lb-In) ³ _____________Å______________________Å__________________________________________´ ³ C ³ -- ³ To Be Routed over the Engine Air Cleaner ³ ³ ³ ³ Mounting Bracket ³ And here's the instructions: Refer to the illustrations in this section for removal and installation of the various types of engine air cleaners. Reference to the illustrations will enable the service technician to perform the required removal and installation or repair operations. For all engines, refer to the following procedure. Removal 1. Loosen clamps securing the air cleaner outlet tube to engine air cleaner. 2. Disconnect tubes, hoses or ducts, as necessary, from the engine air cleaner. 3. Remove screws or nuts attaching engine air cleaner to engine air cleaner mounting bracket (9626). 4. Remove the engine air cleaner from the vehicle. Installation 1. Follow removal procedures in reverse order. I also have the drawings for the larger engines, including California and diesels. Hope this helps some. SC Tom > ----------------- > I feel your pain. Most of the manuals I deal with have pictures drawn by 1st [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > SC Tom Tom, thank you so much for all of this detail. That doesn't bear a resemblance to my engine, so I'm hesitant to begin interpreting various parts. Listen, I _am_ in California, and I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if the CA Air Quality Resources board has been at it again, tinkering with yet another engine (you don't even want to get me started about my lawnmower lol). If you have a CA-specific spec, perhaps it would more closely resemble what I've got (?). In the meantime, what I'm going to do is take a series of hi-res pictures of the Air Filter assembly, including closeups of some of the stuff surrounding it. Once I get it uploaded to flickr I'll update the thread. What I'll do is just randomely LABEL, by number, some of the components so that you can have a frame of reference for focusing my attention on a specific area. I hope that will work? Isn't it disgraceful that Ford is this cheap? Unghhhh!! Again, I'm hip to the CLAMP (no brainer) . . . it's just what I do next that I am not certain about so we'll just go by the numbers on the labels I stick and hope for the best. And I'm leaving this thread archived for any other poor soul who has to deal with this. MC What size engine is in it? On Dec 11, 6:10 pm, "SC Tom" <s...@tom.net> wrote: > ----------------- > I feel your pain. Most of the manuals I deal with have pictures drawn by [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > SC Tom Tom, thank you so much for all of this detail. That doesn't bear a resemblance to my engine, so I'm hesitant to begin interpreting various parts. Listen, I _am_ in California, and I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if the CA Air Quality Resources board has been at it again, tinkering with yet another engine (you don't even want to get me started about my lawnmower lol). If you have a CA-specific spec, perhaps it would more closely resemble what I've got (?). In the meantime, what I'm going to do is take a series of hi-res pictures of the Air Filter assembly, including closeups of some of the stuff surrounding it. Once I get it uploaded to flickr I'll update the thread. What I'll do is just randomely LABEL, by number, some of the components so that you can have a frame of reference for focusing my attention on a specific area. I hope that will work? Isn't it disgraceful that Ford is this cheap? Unghhhh!! Again, I'm hip to the CLAMP (no brainer) . . . it's just what I do next that I am not certain about so we'll just go by the numbers on the labels I stick and hope for the best. And I'm leaving this thread archived for any other poor soul who has to deal with this. MC Bob Bailin . . . That is EXTREMELY useful to know. You'd better believe I'm going to proceed carefully tsk. :( Pictures. Of EVERYTHING. Wow. MC > What size engine is in it? Tom . . . I've been trying to figure that out myself. In my all-but- worthless miniature manual they've lumped the following engine sizes together. It will be one of these; but I don't know how to determine it: 4.2L 4.6L 5.4L 6.8L Where would this be located? The sticker on the inside of the door? Somewhere under the hood? MC there should be a sticker under the hood, or on the radiator support that has the engine specifics and the fan belt routing. but my bet is you have the 5.4. Bob Bailin . . . That is EXTREMELY useful to know. You'd better believe I'm going to proceed carefully tsk. :( Pictures. Of EVERYTHING. Wow. MC On Dec 13, 4:39 am, "SC Tom" <s...@tom.net> wrote: > What size engine is in it? Tom . . . I've been trying to figure that out myself. In my all-but- worthless miniature manual they've lumped the following engine sizes together. It will be one of these; but I don't know how to determine it: 4.2L 4.6L 5.4L 6.8L Where would this be located? The sticker on the inside of the door? Somewhere under the hood? MC > there should be a sticker under the hood, or on the radiator support that > has the engine specifics and the fan belt routing. [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > > MC But Tom -- you didn't explain what a hood is, what a radiator support is, or what a fan belt is. I wonder if that makes your post all-but-worthless along with her manual? > But Tom -- you didn't explain what a hood is, what a radiator support > is, or what a fan belt is. I wonder if that makes your post > all-but-worthless along with her manual? Some of you men are just pathetic. :( MC >But Tom -- you didn't explain what a hood is, what a radiator support >is, or what a fan belt is. I wonder if that makes your post >all-but-worthless along with her manual? She(?) said in her(?) first post that she "opened the hood . . . ", a.shole! ============ I put question marks after the feminine forms, because on usenet you never really know, do you? I did a test once, posting some really simplistic questions on another forum where usually such posts would be asnwered with derision. I put some female name after it. I had all the nerds falling over themslves to give yet a better answer - only because they thought it was posted by some girl they were trying to impress. > there should be a sticker under the hood, or on the radiator support that > has the engine specifics and the fan belt routing. > but my bet is you have the 5.4. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 14 PICTURES + Original Ford Graphic here: http://www.geocities.com/a4248713/index.html * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Sorry it took so long guys, but I'm not good at digital photography lol. Yes Tom, I think I do have a 5.4L, but (as you'll see from the only two stickers that had anything relevant to this) you can't tell from that; no, I actually dug out a prior Sears Auto Center service receipt and found it referenced there. It's a little creepy to not know where they got it from, but . . . I guess that's it (?). MC IF YOU GET AN ERROR MESSAGE TRYING TO ACCESS http://www.geocities.com/a4248713/index.html THAT JUST MEANS IT'S GETTING TOO MANY HITS. I just didn't want anyone to be frustrated. Decided not to use Flickr because I just wanted the pics to spill down on one page, otherwise you'd be in Click Hell. I'm kind of surprised the page is getting clobbered since I only just put it up there 15 minutes ago for crying out loud lol. Let me know what you think guys! Miss Chievous i kind of figure it would be the 5.4. a 4.6 in a 250 van is not a common engine, and the 6.8 is a V10. i figured you would know if you had a V10 in it. so was my picture good enough for you to figure out how to get the filter changed?? a good web forum for ford trucks and vans is www.ford-trucks.com there are alot of very helpful people there. On Dec 13, 10:30 am, "Tom" <tjctransp...@optonline.net> wrote: > there should be a sticker under the hood, or on the radiator support that > has the engine specifics and the fan belt routing. > but my bet is you have the 5.4. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 14 PICTURES + Original Ford Graphic here: http://www.geocities.com/a4248713/index.html * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Sorry it took so long guys, but I'm not good at digital photography lol. Yes Tom, I think I do have a 5.4L, but (as you'll see from the only two stickers that had anything relevant to this) you can't tell from that; no, I actually dug out a prior Sears Auto Center service receipt and found it referenced there. It's a little creepy to not know where they got it from, but . . . I guess that's it (?). MC And lots of people bought a second VEGA too - - if you can imagine that. Well, looking at the pictures you and Tom posted, the '96 is nowhere near what the '98 is. Like I said, I don't have the '98 CD, so the illustrations I have on the '96 CD are useless (different type of filter box). That said, from the pictures and descriptions that Tom and Bob posted, it looks like a PITA, but still doable. it's similar to my SO's Sebring- hers comes apart like that and the one half has to be forced back and up to get the filter in. Good luck with it. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. SC Tom Bob Bailin . . . That is EXTREMELY useful to know. You'd better believe I'm going to proceed carefully tsk. :( Pictures. Of EVERYTHING. Wow. MC On Dec 13, 4:39 am, "SC Tom" <s...@tom.net> wrote: > What size engine is in it? Tom . . . I've been trying to figure that out myself. In my all-but- worthless miniature manual they've lumped the following engine sizes together. It will be one of these; but I don't know how to determine it: 4.2L 4.6L 5.4L 6.8L Where would this be located? The sticker on the inside of the door? Somewhere under the hood? MC it is only a serious PITA the first time Tom. once you figure out how to do it, it is a very simple process. unfortunately, it is not a process that can be easily explained. it must be learned the hard way, through hands on experience. > Well, looking at the pictures you and Tom posted, the '96 is nowhere near > what the '98 is. Like I said, I don't have the '98 CD, so the [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > > MC On Thu, 11 Dec 2008 16:02:27 -0800 (PST), MISS CHIEVOUS <byte.this@usa.net> wrote Re Re: How do I get to the >>AIR FILTER ?? arrrgghgh!: >You see why this is so frustrating? I can't believe I'm actually >going to have shell out $50 to someone just to show me how to put in >my goddamned air filter because FORD MOTOR CO. IS SO CHEAP THEY LEFT >IT OUT OF THE MANUAL! They didn't leave it out because they are cheap. They left it out because they want to rip you off by forceing you to take it to a dealer. Seems to me the kind of guy that can not even figure out HOW to change a filter, IS the kind of guy that NEEDS to go to a dealership for service LOL By the way the proper way to change a filter, and just about everything else you will ever need to know about HOW to service a car, IS available in a manual! It is called the shop manual and it is available on line. > On Thu, 11 Dec 2008 16:02:27 -0800 (PST), MISS CHIEVOUS > <byte.this@usa.net> wrote Re Re: How do I get to the >>AIR FILTER ?? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > because they want to rip you off by forceing you to take it to a > dealer. On Dec 11, 9:32 pm, "Ted Mittelstaedt" <t...@toybox.placo.com> wrote: >>> Post a link to a good digital pic of the setup. This is why you['re] supposed to buy a Factory Service Manual. • The first suggestion is actually a good one. And I'll do it; in fact, I'll take hi-res pics of every step I'm taking to get to the air filter, since the general public deserves some guide. • You're second point is ludicrous. See Tim J.'s response, above, and look up the phrase "routine maintenance". I'm not setting the calibration on my van, I'm just trying to replace the friggin' AIR FILTER. :( On Dec 12, 1:24 am, Caesar Romano <S...@uce.gov> wrote: >>> They didn't leave it out because they are cheap. They left it out because they want to rip you off by forceing you to take it to a dealer. • Yup. >>> Seems to me the kind of guy that can not even figure out HOW to change a filter, IS the kind of guy that NEEDS to go to a dealership for service. By the way the proper way to change a filter, and just about everything else you will ever need to know about HOW to service a car, IS available in a manual! It is called the shop manual and it is available on line. • Firstly Mr. Hunter, I'm not a guy. • Secondly Mr. Hunter, the SHOP MANUAL that you are referring to is _NOT_ available free, from Ford, as a PDF. I defy you to provide EITHER the link for me -or- ANY INSTRUCTIONS, INCLUDING GRAPHICS, FOR ACCESSING THE AIR FILTER TO CHANGE IT. Alright? Class, we'll wait while Mr. Hunter spends some quality time with ford.com. And that's MISS Chievous to you, sailor. > I have an E-250 Ford Econoline Van . . . but I think the setup may be > identical for E-250 trucks (?). [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > how to get the plastic "enclosure" unit opened to get to the AIR > FILTER. It has a clip Post a link to a good digital pic of the setup. This is why your supposed to buy a Factory Service Manual. Ted >This is why your supposed to buy a Factory Service Manual. An FSM shouldn't be required to perform such routine maintenance as replacing an air filter. this picture is for a F350, but the van is the same thing. undo the spring clamp separate the housing, and replace the filter. [IMG]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e261/tjctransport/airfilter.jpg[/IMG] >I have an E-250 Ford Econoline Van . . . but I think the setup may be > identical for E-250 trucks (?). [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > MC > this picture is for a F350, but the van is the same thing. > undo the spring clamp separate the housing, and replace the filter. > [IMG]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e261/tjctransport/airfilter.jpg[/IMG] • Tom, that is VERY helpful. Thank you. :) MC you are welcome. i know the pic is not that precise, but i figure if you are halfway mechanically talented, with the pic you will figure it out. please let us know how you make out. On Dec 12, 10:47 am, "Tom" <tjctransp...@optonline.net> wrote: > this picture is for a F350, but the van is the same thing. > undo the spring clamp separate the housing, and replace the filter. > [IMG]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e261/tjctransport/airfilter.jpg[/IMG] • Tom, that is VERY helpful. Thank you. :) MC On Dec 12, 10:47 am, "Tom" <tjctransp...@optonline.net> wrote: > this picture is for a F350, but the van is the same thing. > undo the spring clamp separate the housing, and replace the filter. > [IMG]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e261/tjctransport/airfilter.jpg[/IMG] • Tom, that is VERY helpful. Thank you. :) MC ----------------- If your air filter assembly is anything like the one on my 97 Escort, here's some problems you may joyfully experience: 1. When you loosen the clamp fully, there's barely enough clearance to slide it off of the flange where the two halves join. Make note of the exact orientation of the clamp before you remove it. Better yet, take a couple of photos first. 2. There's barely enough clearance to separate the top half of the air cleaner housing from the bottom and then pivot it aside in order to remove the air filter. You shouldn't have to remove any other clamps near the throttle body to do this, but you'll be tempted. Whatever you do, don't remove the clamp from the upper half of the housing, because if you turn the clamp around 180 degrees, you'll never get it back on. Don't poke at the MAF sensor inside the upper half. 3. The replacement air filter should have a rubber tab along its flange to set it properly in the lower half of the housing. I find that the Motorcraft air filters just fit better than other aftermarket brands. Remove any dirt or leaves in the lower half before installing the new filter. 4. If you thought removing the clamp was a treat, you'll really enjoy replacing it! In addition to the rubber tab on the air filter, there may be plastic tabs on the housing that fit into triangular holes in the clamp (not the rectangular holes). Until you line them both up properly, you won't be able to close the clamp. Until you get both halves of the flange inside the clamp, you won't be able to close the clamp. Don't be surprise if you fight with it for 5-15 minutes before everything magically fits back into place. 5. Be thankful that you only have to change the air filter every 30K miles. Bob > this picture is for a F350, but the van is the same thing. > undo the spring clamp separate the housing, and replace the filter. > [IMG]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e261/tjctransport/airfilter.jpg[/IMG] Tom, my only concern here is that, after springing the clamp, there doesn't seem to be much play between the two halves. In other words . . . I'm worried if I just force it I'll break something because each half seem to be immovable (notwithstanding the fact that they obviously have to come apart >>at some point). Are you absolutely sure there isn't some other component I need to unscrew/detach >>first? Rotate something? Thanks guys, I so appreciate this! MC CAN WE ALL AGREE THAT, IN ORDER TO ACCESS THE AIR FILTER: 1. The curved "flange" in #-06 will need to be backed out of its GROOVE 2. The picture showing the clamp raised (#-08) represents the ONLY SEAM that needs to be separated ADVISE? * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * WHICH LEADS ME TO THESE 3 REMAINING QUESTIONS: 3. Do I at any time have to separate the SEAM indicated in #-11? 4. Do I at any time have to unscrew the BAND indicated in #-09? 5. Do I have to do anything with the "KNOB" displayed in the (exact-) center of #-05? Thanks again guys. MC > CAN WE ALL AGREE THAT, IN ORDER TO ACCESS THE AIR FILTER: > 1. The curved "flange" in #-06 will need to be backed out of its [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > MC That is one seriously cramped engine compartment. It looks exactly like the air cleaner housing in my Escort, but with almost zero room to maneuver. 1. I can't tell exactly, but if the flange is part of the passenger side half of the housing, that side doesn't move. Only the driver's side of the housing needs to move an inch towards the right (as you're looking at it from the front of the van) and then pivot up and out of the way. 2. The clamp is not fully opened as shown. If you push it all the way towards the back, it will expand the entire ring all around to clear the raised flange. Depending on which side has more room, you can slide it to the right or to the left. Personally I'd try towards the right. 3. No. The left (passenger) half doesn't flex. 4. No. That accordion connection between the housing and the throttle body should be flexible enough to move that half an inch to the right and then pivot up and out of the way so that you can remove the air cleaner element. 5. No. That's the electrical connector for either the mass airflow sensor (MAF) or the intake air temp sensor. There should be enough slack in the harness to allow you to pivot the right half up and away so that you can remove the air cleaner. Don't move it more than you have to, that flexible hose can develop cracks with age. After you slide the clamp to the side, the right housing half will stick to the rubber part of the air cleaner. Just pry at it with something blunt like a butter knife if it needs help coming apart. Honestly, this is one of those pain-in-the-a.s jobs that almost make it worth paying a knowledgeable mechanic to do for you. Bob > That is one seriously cramped engine compartment. It looks exactly > like the air cleaner housing in my Escort, but with almost zero room > to maneuver. > > 1. I can't tell exactly, but if the flange is part of the passenger side > half of the housing, that side (ETC.) Bob I can't thank you enough for this detail. Honestly, it's so good I ripped it to a PDF lol. It's raining right now, but as soon as I can I'm going to bring your (and Tom's) instructions outside and BEGIN! Yaaaaay! This wasn't nearly as traumatic an experience as convincing myself that I 1.) could operate a chainsaw, 2.) could drop a 100-ft. tree, and 3.) (((the scariest))) change the chain on my chainsaw >>without taking my arm off! I tell you, once a gal can do that, she can do ANYTHING honey lol. Almost passed out I was so nervous. I have male friends who won't get within 10 feet of my Stihl® chainsaw, it's hilarious; but . . . I just really feel it's good to test your mettle, eh? I build my own computers for crying out loud; and this issue -- a routine maintenance issue I _should_ be able to do myself, notwithstanding the PITA nature of the cramped working space (which I see you appreciate heh) -- this issue just became a Battle of Wills. The air filter looks like you could strap on a pair of rocket boosters and send it on a mission. No wonder I couldn't find it at either Walmart, Kmart or Target -- the thing is only slightly smaller than a BOWLING BALL ha ha!). Never seen anything like it. After finally caving and going to Kragen, I thought this would be your typical air-filter-wingnut assembly -- a 10 minute job, right? AAAAHAHAHA. My neighbor's college-age son saw me taking the pictures of the air filter and came over with a look of horror on his face. I just said, "Air Filter. Don't ask." The only piece to this puzzle I'm baffled by is that curved flange -- #-06 on my picture set. I _think_ what you're saying is that the (female) groove ITSELF pulls back to the right (Driver's Side) to allow the male portion of the piece to swing away? But I'll find out just as soon as I have a spot of free time and it isn't raining. That air filter IS going into that van, or my name isn't . . . MISS CHIEVOUS I was looking for a modest-sized platter in a Fram box. and THIS thing looks like) hehe you think that one is big, i have an air filter from a cat dozer in my superduty diesel. it is 12 inches in diameter, and 16 inches long. i get at least 4 years out of them compared to 6-8 months from the stock On Dec 14, 3:35 pm, "Bob Bailin" <72027.3...@compuserve.com> wrote: > That is one seriously cramped engine compartment. It looks exactly > like the air cleaner housing in my Escort, but with almost zero room > to maneuver. > > 1. I can't tell exactly, but if the flange is part of the passenger side > half of the housing, that side (ETC.) Bob I can't thank you enough for this detail. Honestly, it's so good I ripped it to a PDF lol. It's raining right now, but as soon as I can I'm going to bring your (and Tom's) instructions outside and BEGIN! Yaaaaay! This wasn't nearly as traumatic an experience as convincing myself that I 1.) could operate a chainsaw, 2.) could drop a 100-ft. tree, and 3.) (((the scariest))) change the chain on my chainsaw >>without taking my arm off! I tell you, once a gal can do that, she can do ANYTHING honey lol. Almost passed out I was so nervous. I have male friends who won't get within 10 feet of my Stihl® chainsaw, it's hilarious; but . . . I just really feel it's good to test your mettle, eh? I build my own computers for crying out loud; and this issue -- a routine maintenance issue I _should_ be able to do myself, notwithstanding the PITA nature of the cramped working space (which I see you appreciate heh) -- this issue just became a Battle of Wills. The air filter looks like you could strap on a pair of rocket boosters and send it on a mission. No wonder I couldn't find it at either Walmart, Kmart or Target -- the thing is only slightly smaller than a BOWLING BALL ha ha!). Never seen anything like it. After finally caving and going to Kragen, I thought this would be your typical air-filter-wingnut assembly -- a 10 minute job, right? AAAAHAHAHA. My neighbor's college-age son saw me taking the pictures of the air filter and came over with a look of horror on his face. I just said, "Air Filter. Don't ask." The only piece to this puzzle I'm baffled by is that curved flange -- #-06 on my picture set. I _think_ what you're saying is that the (female) groove ITSELF pulls back to the right (Driver's Side) to allow the male portion of the piece to swing away? But I'll find out just as soon as I have a spot of free time and it isn't raining. That air filter IS going into that van, or my name isn't . . . MISS CHIEVOUS I was looking for a modest-sized platter in a Fram box. and THIS thing looks like) > hehe you think that one is big, i have an air filter from a cat dozer in my > superduty diesel. it is 12 inches in diameter, and 16 inches long. !!!!!!! • • O MC Okay guys, DONE. I've updated the webpage and will leave it up there for other poor souls. This was a simple job of unclamping, separating the seam even a little bit, and then >>pressing down on the flat piece with the word "Econoline" on it, revealing two catches that snap out. No tools are necessary, the job is that quick. It isn't the driver-side that separates/pivots, it's the _passenger- side_ (really I could kill Ford lol). Thanks for the help guys! Miss Chievous glad you got it figured out. > Okay guys, DONE. > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Miss Chievous Miss C-- Glad you got that one sorted out. The little "instruction manuals" provided with new vehicles are _designed_ to be so non-informational that (they hope) you might go back to the dealership for service. You can be sure there are many more puzzles awaiting you. My best suggestion: Go to an auto parts store and purchase a paper-back "Haynes Repair Manual" ($10-$15) for any vehicle you may have. Good index. Clear explanations and instructions. Clear photos. Drawings (when needed) are just as easy to follow. Pays for itself even if you only use it once. And when you need a repair or service that _does_ require taking vehicle to a repair shop, you can easily understand from the manual what has to be done, what parts might be required, etc. This reduces the chance that you can be bull$h---ed to almost zero. And all of the annoying "small stuff" (like fuse locations, filters, light bulbs, lens removals, latches, belts, hoses, etc.) is easy to understand. Saves a lot of time and arrrgghgh. Jeff > Miss C-- Glad you got that one sorted out. The little > "instruction manuals" provided with new vehicles are _designed_ to be so [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > photos. Drawings (when needed) are just as easy to follow. Pays > for itself even if you only use it once. And if you have older cars, check used bookstores like 1/2 Price Books for manuals. I picked up a Haynes manual for my 91 Ford LTD Crown Victoria LX for $5. In general, they're much better than the manual which comes with the car, but there are occasional inaccuracies, bad pictures, and etc. But generally, they're good. The picture in the Haynes manual for the breather filter element in my Crown Vic showed a dotted line going behind the engine. Not too helpful. I finally found the thing by asking for advice on crownvic.net. It seems that the only way to actually see the PCV (with filter element under that) is to lay down on top of the intake and peer behind the intake, looking for a PCV attached to a largish vacuum hose. I finally found it. Digital pictures didn't turn out or I'd post them to the web. There were too many other hoses and wiring harnesses in the way to get a good shot with the camera. And I also took advice from crownvic.net on how to get the (metal screen) breather filter out. I used a ratcheted to thread a 8" long wood screw down into the center of the thing, then pulled it out with vice grips. A 10" long wood screw would have been better, but an 8" long one did the job. Getting the new one back in wasn't too bad, since I've got long, skinny fingers and could feel what I was doing. I guess that's why so many people on crownvic.net say those breather filter elements don't get changed as often as they should. For something so simple, they're a real p.i.t.a. to replace. Jeff  Signature"Many things that were acceptable in 1958 are no longer acceptable today. My own standards have changed too." -- Freeman Dyson i have found that haynes manuals are really only good for lining the bottom of bird cages. >> Miss C-- Glad you got that one sorted out. The little >> "instruction manuals" provided with new vehicles are _designed_ to be so [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > > Jeff >i have found that haynes manuals are really only good for lining the bottom >of bird cages. I beg to differ. They are hit or miss, but I only spent $5 on mine, so it's been well worth it. Obviously a better way to go are the Ford shop manuals. For owners of older cars, like mine, you might get lucky on eBay, but shipping won't be cheap, so it's going to cost a lot more than the cheap Haynes manual any way you look at it. Jeff Signature"Many things that were acceptable in 1958 are no longer acceptable today. My own standards have changed too." -- Freeman Dyson JEFFRY GAGNON and JEFF FINDLEY . . . I might have agreed with you 30 (or even 20) years ago about the need for such manuals, but the great thing about the internet is that every month, every day, every second someone is adding their little content online for the benefit of others. Oh I don't doubt that anything really technical would require a SHOP manual; but what I found so offensive about the one that came with my van was that it couldn't even cough up a paragraph on something that is ROUTINE MAINTENANCE. There are two pages devoted to changing my wiper blades . . . and NOTHING, ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about a readily- available consumer part that takes less than a minute to replace (without tools!) and should be changed a few times a year at a minimum! This thread may help someone in the future be spared having to make a trip to the library. There is no excuse whatsoever for Ford Motor Company to have omitted this instruction in their manual. It was a deliberate (and pathetic) attempt to force owners to take their van into the shop and it's reprehensible. For technical, yes. For routine, fuggedaboutit lol. MC In article <3906af50-1d6a-4252-9ac1-f85b441a3147@f18g2000vbf.googlegroups.com>, > and should be changed a few times a year at a > minimum! Why would that be? > JEFFRY GAGNON and JEFF FINDLEY . . . > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > For technical, yes. > For routine, fuggedaboutit lol. This is because Ford assumes you know how to do such routine things and that you'll spot the clips on the air filter, drain plug (or two) on the car when changing the oil. That said, you really do need someone to help you out with the "obvious" things. When I was growing up, that person was my father. It's best if you have someone close by, but in a pinch, pictures on the Internet and questions to this Usenet newsgroup are a good substitute. Jeff Signature"Many things that were acceptable in 1958 are no longer acceptable today. My own standards have changed too." -- Freeman Dyson On Dec 14, 3:35 pm, "Bob Bailin" <72027.3...@compuserve.com> wrote: > That is one seriously cramped engine compartment. It looks exactly > like the air cleaner housing in my Escort, but with almost zero room > to maneuver. > > 1. I can't tell exactly, but if the flange is part of the passenger side > half of the housing, that side (ETC.) [snippity] The only piece to this puzzle I'm baffled by is that curved flange -- #-06 on my picture set. I _think_ what you're saying is that the (female) groove ITSELF pulls back to the right (Driver's Side) to allow the male portion of the piece to swing away? But I'll find out just as soon as I have a spot of free time and it isn't raining. That air filter IS going into that van, or my name isn't . . . MISS CHIEVOUS --------------------------- Actually, all I was saying is that if that curved flange is part of the passenger-side half of the housing, then it doesn't matter at all because that half doesn't move. I just can't tell from your photo which half it belongs to. If the flange belongs to the driver-side half, then your explanation should work. Bob in article 0a8a3e0e-072c-4c37-80bb-416fc908bd35@j11g2000yqg.googlegroups.com, MISS CHIEVOUS at byte.this@usa.net wrote on 12/14/08 9:41 AM: > Are you absolutely sure there isn't some other component I need to > unscrew/detach >>first? some Ford Vans and some of the Mustangs ... needed the engine mounts unbolted, and you drop the engine ... or lift it up ... to access the spark plugs, filters and such for maintenece. Costs extra .... even for smog testing. That gets you the room you are looking for. sumbuddie hopes this helps nope. just pop the spring clamp, and spread it as far as you can. with it spread wide, you should then be able to wiggle it off the raised pieces it clamps together. once it is out of the way, you can spread the filter housing. if it has not been changed in quite a while like it sounds like you have, it will seem like it is one piece, but it ain't. sometimes you need to force it a bit. i have never broke one yet, even though there have been times i thought i was putting way to much strength into it. and i regularly break 3/8 ratchet wrench extensions, so i am plenty strong enough to break a filter housing. On Dec 12, 10:47 am, "Tom" <tjctransp...@optonline.net> wrote: > this picture is for a F350, but the van is the same thing. > undo the spring clamp separate the housing, and replace the filter. > [IMG]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e261/tjctransport/airfilter.jpg[/IMG] Tom, my only concern here is that, after springing the clamp, there doesn't seem to be much play between the two halves. In other words . . . I'm worried if I just force it I'll break something because each half seem to be immovable (notwithstanding the fact that they obviously have to come apart >>at some point). Are you absolutely sure there isn't some other component I need to unscrew/detach >>first? Rotate something? Thanks guys, I so appreciate this! MC > nope. just pop the spring clamp, and spread it as far as you can. with it > spread wide, you should then be able to wiggle it off the raised pieces it [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > been changed in quite a while like it sounds like you have, it will seem > like it is one piece, but it ain't. Thanks Tom. :) MC can you post some pics of you changing it ,,in a bathing suit? .... sorry,getting cabin fever..lucas ---------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm |
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