I can't believe I wore out a set of rear rotors and pads on my 08 F150
in 35,000KMS... whats that in miles... 17k?

I heard it making a noise... and it kindda sounded like pads but i said
WTF... can't wear out REAR pads in 35k kms... sure enough... pads were
right to the metal.

I have always had rotor warpage problems with my Ford trucks.  The brand and
source of the rotors has not made too much difference.  The biggest help I found
was mostly accidental when I last replaced the pads.  I had the rotors
resurfaced but, the store did not have the Bendix Titanium Metallic pads I have
used on everything for years.  All they had was a set of  Morse Ceramics which
they gave me to get me going again.  After more than 10k miles, thwe brakes are
still strong and smooth with no indication of the usual warpage I have resigned
myself to live with.  I replaced the pads on my wife's Sable without surfacing
the rotors after that with the ceramic metallic pads.  It had a slight shudder
before the pads but, the lathe was down at the store.  I decided to put the pads
on anyways and just pull the rotors later if it was too bad.  I was very
pleasantly surprised to find the shudder reduced to the point of almost
imperceptible.  I know this is not scientific but, I will continue to use the
ceramic pads until I find something terribly different than what I have seen so
far.  Clean wheels is also a nice benefit of ceramics

BTW, you should be able to buy the rotors with bearing races installed and just
replace them yourself for far less than $500/pr.  You don't say what years truck
you have but, the last rotors I bought a couple of years ago were made in
Australia and set me back about $35/ea.  Quality seemed to be on par with any
others I have bought over the years.   It may pay you to shop around if you
can't do it yourself.

Lugnut

I never turn the rotors ... I only replace the pads with factory issue and
do so BEFORE they are needed to be replaced usually at 90K miles they have
to go, rear brakes often times go to 110K miles before swapping.  I am done
with 1/2 ton's and plough around in an F250 Diesel now .. brakes are just
fine at 145K miles now.

I always flush the brake fluid from the master cylinder to the slave
cylinders with every brake swap ... as the old brake fluid leaves pitting
and rust in the system from dirt and water condensation common to use if
left to its own devices.

Sometimes the rotor is scored as the metal rivets or parts cut it up a bit,
I still just replace the pads, and let the pad polish the rotor over use.
There is a required spring clip and anti-vibration goop that is usefull to
have in top condition when replacing it out in those cases that need it.

My advice over time .. leave the rotor alone short of preventive maintenance
in getting to it ahead of time, and just keep factory issued parts in it ...
you have a heat issue with warping ... and that comes from something you are
doing in the repair ... as the factory out the showroom floor gets it right
for the first 90K miles beyond warrenty ... ya think ???

So the system performs ... you just have to fit into that performance
factory spec profile ... or do better then factory specs ... get cooler pads
if you are going to cut rotors ... go after market that makes sense and
accounts for your leaving factory specs ... IMO and all that rot !!!

sumbuddie wear blind sea

  If you are a two footed driver that is the problem. (unless you have
a clutch of course.)  KB

My experience: I have an F-150 supercab with 5.4 engine and 4 wheel disc
brakes.
My F-150 has 184,000 miles on it. I change brake pads every 25,000
miles. I buy the
best pads that auto zone has. I did also change all my rotors. I bought
vented, slotted rotors.
The truck stops a lot better with these rotors. I have never had any
problems with my
brake system. I change my own pads, only a 30 minute job....