Hi...
I have a 1998 Ford Windstar, 3.8, with about 102K miles. I have
disassembled and cleaning everything such as the TPS, ISC, PCV, etc and
still having issues.
Symptoms.
- Cold Engine - Starts easily, runs fine.
- Warm - Shut off and if started immediately, starts and runs fine.
- Warm - Shut off for 10 minutes and restarts, runs rough for 10-15 seconds,
then runs fine.
- Warm - Shut off for 30 minutes, Cranks for 10-15 seconds before
restarting, runs rough for a few seconds, then runs fine.
Shut it off for an hour and it starts perfectly!
Any clues where I should start looking?
Alan B. Mac Farlane - 17 Mar 2009 23:46 GMT
Your smog system is worn and plugged up from carbon ... as that is what is
designed to do. I would suggest your EGR is the culprit ... but that has to
be diagnosed and run down ... as it could be another valve in the piping
that is plugged up with carbon and your EGR is just fine.
sumbuddie just guessing
:?
lugnut - 18 Mar 2009 03:25 GMT
>Hi...
>
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>
>Any clues where I should start looking?
I just went thru a round similar to that with my F150. Fuel
mileage down and HC reading at high end of specs. Gave it a
tuneup that it was due for with no good results. Replaced
the O2 sensor with no help. No codes in ECM. Started going
thru system by the book checking reading against specs on
each sensor. The ECT was found about 30% higher impedance
than expected at several temperatures. Replaced it and
reset to ECM. HC reading dropped, fuel mileage up , hard
start and roughness corrected. May not be your problem but,
sometimes, you just have to get down to the bare elements to
find it. A good alternative for what I did is get your
dealer to run a complete diagnostic on it. These type
things seem to be found by the Ford test equipment. You '98
year model also has much more info available to isolate the
problem. The diagnostic cost is usually about an hour's
labor which is applied toward the repair if you choose to go
ahead with repair. In the long run, a good service tech can
save you money. If your problem is resulting in an over
rich fuel condition, the converter can easily be damaged
which can cost a bundle and you still have to get it
repaired. Then again, you could just put in a new ECT
sensor and and hope to get lucky the first time.
Lugnut
Dennis - 19 Mar 2009 21:19 GMT
Does the ECT reading show up on the Temperature guage in the dash?
I would think this would be obvious if it was defective by the temperature
shown on the dash.
Is this a correct assumption?
>>Hi...
>>
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>
> Lugnut
Bob Bailin - 19 Mar 2009 00:16 GMT
> Hi...
>
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>
> Any clues where I should start looking?
You might have a leaky fuel injector. The bad f.i. drips into
the cylinder while the engine is off, and it runs very rich
when you restart the engine within an hour. Any longer gives
the fuel a chance to evaporate completely.
Your mechanic can do a fuel pressure test to see if it's
holding pressure when the engine is off. He can also pull
the plugs to see which one is blacker and running rich.
Until you get it fixed, you can fully depress the gas pedal
while starting the engine to shut off the injectors and
help clear the engine faster of excess fuel.
Dennis - 19 Mar 2009 21:21 GMT
Wouldn't a leaky fuel injector just make one cylinder not fire (run rough)
until the excess fuel burned off?
Depressing the gas pedal makes no difference, it still takes about 15
seconds of cranking for a warm start at times
>> Hi...
>>
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
> while starting the engine to shut off the injectors and
> help clear the engine faster of excess fuel.
Alan B. Mac Farlane - 19 Mar 2009 23:31 GMT
> Depressing the gas pedal makes no difference, it still takes about 15
> seconds of cranking for a warm start at times
Cold starts on Fords ... is press the pedal once ... turn key and off you
go.
Warm starts ... leave the pedal alone .. turn the key and off you go.
If that is not happening ... take it in for 20 minutes of diagnosis by a
certified ford mechanic ... most of the time it is an easy fix.
In the old days they would have said replace the carburator as that is what
is broken given your car symptoms presented.
If your starter is turning more slowly as it has a lot of miles on it, then
that slower turning of the engine makes for poor starts ... as you are
losing your starter. If your starter is hot and quick ... and your battery
is running on all 6 cells ... that is most of the quick fixes.
Ford Battery ... will not run well or start well with only 5 cells hot in
the battery ... you MUST have all 6 battery cell hot and going on with a
Ford.
That is a good test for the battery and starter ... then take it in to a
certified mechanic you got bigger problems and best to take care of as you
are wearing out your starter and engine this way.
sumbuddie wear blind sea
Dennis - 20 Mar 2009 03:10 GMT
Cold start, press pedal once? Its a '98... no choke to set. and it cranks
over just fine...no issues here.
Guess I'll be cleaning the EGR system this weekend, best advice i have heard
yet.
Take it to a mechanic, lol. Been driving for over 25 years, and never once
had to take a car in to a shop. Why pay someone to have all the fun?
Thanks!
>> Depressing the gas pedal makes no difference, it still takes about 15
>> seconds of cranking for a warm start at times
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>
> sumbuddie wear blind sea