1953 Ford Voltage regulator help

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gore - 16 May 2009 23:54 GMT

My dad just purchased a 53 Ford Customline and the battery is not charging.
This is a flathead with a positive ground system. We replaced the voltage
regulator and flashed the generator (pulled the field wire off the regulator
and touched it to the bat terminal) and fired it up. I has a meter on the
battery terminals while he revved it a little and the voltage didn't rise
like we were expecting it too. I was wondering if anyone could tell me how
to test the regulator. When I had the test leads across 2 points on the
regulator as he revved her up and it shot up to about 14 volts, but I am not
sure which 2 points I was on. I am not that old school and have no
experience with a 6v positive ground system and don't know which points I
should be probing on. The regulator has 3 tabs the arm the field and the
bat. Which 2 do I check on? I found a wiring diagram for 53 flathead here
http://www.classictruckshop.com/images/f-100wd.jpg (it looks pretty much
like how the car is wired), but I still just can't figure out how the
charging system works. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Shane

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clare@snyder.on.ca - 17 May 2009 04:36 GMT

>My dad just purchased a 53 Ford Customline and the battery is not charging.
>This is a flathead with a positive ground system. We replaced the voltage
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>Thanks,
>Shane

If I remember correctly on a ford you short B to F to full feild. On a
Chevy you ground the feild.

The contacts in the regulator are likely oxidized from sitting. Clean
them with a point burnishing tool, fine point file, or crocus cloth
(not emery!!!!!)

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Alan Mac Farlane - 17 May 2009 05:29 GMT

>> My dad just purchased a 53 Ford Customline and the battery is not charging.
>> This is a flathead with a positive ground system. We replaced the voltage
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> them with a point burnishing tool, fine point file, or crocus cloth
> (not emery!!!!!)

that ... and fresh metal in contact with the arse end of the regulator
housing on the side fire wall (or wheel well housing) where they affix
to each other with 2 metal tap bolts, usually half inch wrench fit.

6 volt is simple, works all the time, dumb, stupid, do it the way it
sets it self to the system of things and it will work just fine.

sumbuddie saidis

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gore - 17 May 2009 15:31 GMT

>>> My dad just purchased a 53 Ford Customline and the battery is not
>>> charging. This is a flathead with a positive ground system. We replaced
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
>
> :?

Yes, the contacts on the old regulator were heavily oxidized, so we bought a
new one. I guess my next question is should the whole assembly be isolated
from the firewall, or should it be "grounded" to it. It looks like the old
one had 3 rubber bushings on it to keep it isolated, but the new one we
bought only had 2 but this would connect it to the firewall.

Thanks,
Shane

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clare@snyder.on.ca - 17 May 2009 18:45 GMT

>>>> My dad just purchased a 53 Ford Customline and the battery is not
>>>> charging. This is a flathead with a positive ground system. We replaced
[quoted text clipped - 41 lines]
>Thanks,
>Shane

The rubber is to quiet it down. Fastened directly to the firewall
they buzz pretty good. The rubbers should have a brass "bonding strip"
on at least one of them as the regulator needs to be grounded to
function.

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George Orwell - 21 May 2009 01:31 GMT

Don't waste your time with vibrator relay voltage regulators. Convert
system to 12 volt alternator with transistorized regulator, preferably
integral. If the wiring is still good, you can use the old wiring. Replace
the coil and lamps, use dropping resistors for the instruments and buy a
new radio. Install a 12 v. battery. Old starter will work just fine.

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