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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Cars / January 2005

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IAC behavior

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Yves - 12 Jan 2005 03:33 GMT
Some time ago, I started a thread on problem starting at or near 32?.

And backyard mechanics told me it was probably my IAC,

Well I removed it, it's not grounded, the resistance between the posts is
10ohms, sounds OK, the voltage that goes to it is 12.5V.

But should the IAC normally closed or open when I turn the switch to ON.

When the switch is OFF, should the valve be closed or open?
Spark - 12 Jan 2005 05:09 GMT
Correct me if I am wrong , but the way I understand the IAC is :

Closed  when OFF

Partially  (variably) open when engine running ( it receives pulses from the
ECM)

> Some time ago, I started a thread on problem starting at or near 32?.
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> When the switch is OFF, should the valve be closed or open?
Backyard Mechanic - 12 Jan 2005 05:34 GMT
> Some time ago, I started a thread on problem starting at or near 32?.
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> When the switch is OFF, should the valve be closed or open?

If the thing idles ok, in warmer weather and once started, there's no reason
to test it.  just spray it out good with intake cleaner, and also the
throttle area.

Closed with key off, I believe..I'd tell you for sure but the book isnt
handy.

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- Yes, I'm a crusty old geezer curmudgeon.. deal with it! -

Yves - 12 Jan 2005 13:14 GMT
Well, the van still doesn't start well, but it idles relatively ok, I have a
small miss at random.

The IAC unplugged looks as if it's half way open.

When pluged, ignition key on , it's still half way open.

I thought that applying 12V, should close or open the valve!

> > Some time ago, I started a thread on problem starting at or near 32?.
> >
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> Closed with key off, I believe..I'd tell you for sure but the book isnt
> handy.
sleepdog@optonline.net - 12 Jan 2005 15:06 GMT
That is because the IAC valve gets it's instructions (in terms of
voltage) from the ECM, not from a hot ignition.  You should see the
valve open partly or full in fast-idle mode when you first turn the
engine on, until kick-down.  The fast-idle warms up the cold engine by
allowing more air into the intake, increasing the idle speed to shorten
the time it takes to get the engine up to operating temperature.  That
is the basic concept, anyway.  Some of the Chilton manuals have great
descriptions on how the ECM controls the different states of the intake
components:  idle, fast-idle, wide-open throttle (WOT) and limp mode.

Simply turning the ignition on won't actuate the valve, the engine must
be running.  A catch-22 if you are trying to determine how much the
valve is opening, because the engine won't run without the valve
installed.
One question, what do you mean by "doesn't start, but idles OK"?

Matt
Yves - 12 Jan 2005 15:40 GMT
I did not say "doesn't start, but idles OK",

I said "Well, the van still doesn't start well, but it idles relatively ok"

I should have said the van is hard to start!!!

Sometime to start it I need to put the throttle to the floor, as if the
engine is not getting enough air or too much gas, any ways, the mixture
gas/air doesn't seem ok.

Thank.s

> That is because the IAC valve gets it's instructions (in terms of
> voltage) from the ECM, not from a hot ignition.  You should see the
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Matt
Backyard Mechanic - 12 Jan 2005 15:53 GMT
> I did not say "doesn't start, but idles OK",
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Thank.s

Again, the ECM has an algorythm that mimics a carburetor while starting.

Holding the pedal to the floor opens the choke on a carb and has the ecm send
LESS gas on EFI

Pumping (or touching) the pedal squirts gas in a carb, and sends MORE gas on
an EFI

On my Taurus, when it was starting hard in cold weather , i found that I
could pump the pedal twice THEN hold it to floor to get it to start quicker,
but then it ran rough for a minute or two because I had set the wrong table
in the ECM.

Cleaning the Throttle body and IAC, IN MY CASE, fixed the problem.

Signature

- Yes, I'm a crusty old geezer curmudgeon.. deal with it! -

Yves - 12 Jan 2005 16:36 GMT
Hi,

What did you use to clean the IAC.

> > I did not say "doesn't start, but idles OK",
> >
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> Cleaning the Throttle body and IAC, IN MY CASE, fixed the problem.
Yves - 12 Jan 2005 16:37 GMT
Hi again,

If I change the IAC, will I need to go to Ford to have it ajusted?

> > I did not say "doesn't start, but idles OK",
> >
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> Cleaning the Throttle body and IAC, IN MY CASE, fixed the problem.
lugnut - 12 Jan 2005 17:45 GMT
>Hi again,
>
>If I change the IAC, will I need to go to Ford to have it ajusted?

There is no adjustment of the IAC.  You need to reset the
ECM either by using a scan tool or by disconnectiong the
battery for at least 10 minutes.  When you restart the
engine, don't touch  the throttle.  This allows the ECM to
start the engine using a basic set of parameters programed
at the factory.  Once the engine is started, stand back and
let it idle for at least 2 minutes to allow the ECM to go
thru it's startup timing to closed loop operation.  While
holding the brake, place the trans selector in each of it's
positions several times for a few seconds each without
touching the throttle.  This allows it to learn the idle
speed droop for the transmission.  You should then drive it
around a few miles for it to complete relearning of the
engine operating parameters.  If you still have the problem,
you will need to do a bit more diagnostic work.  In the end,
you may find it would have been cheaper and less hassle to
have a competent tech run a diagnostic on it for about
$75US.  It can get very expensive throwing parts at it until
you get the right one.

Good luck

Lugnut

>> > I did not say "doesn't start, but idles OK",
>> >
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>>
>> Cleaning the Throttle body and IAC, IN MY CASE, fixed the problem.
Yves - 12 Jan 2005 18:37 GMT
There is an ajustment knob on the IAC, and it's said in the Haynes manual
not to touch it unless you are a Ford Tech.

And Ford tech can't find anything... well after the 75US!!!

> >Hi again,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 55 lines]
> >>
> >> Cleaning the Throttle body and IAC, IN MY CASE, fixed the problem.
sleepdog@optonline.net - 12 Jan 2005 20:27 GMT
Than the IAC has no adjuster and is totally controlled by the computer.
The only manual adjustment is probably the throttle stop screw, which
is near the IAC.

Matt
Backyard Mechanic - 12 Jan 2005 20:37 GMT
opined in news:1105561629.039630.308540@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

> Than the IAC has no adjuster and is totally controlled by the computer.
> The only manual adjustment is probably the throttle stop screw, which
> is near the IAC.

yeah... I was wondering.  

DO NOT adjust that stop screw!

Signature

- Yes, I'm a crusty old geezer curmudgeon.. deal with it! -

Yves - 12 Jan 2005 20:57 GMT
Well,

What if I turned it a bit?

> opined in news:1105561629.039630.308540@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> DO NOT adjust that stop screw!
Yves - 12 Jan 2005 21:10 GMT
It's not the throttle stop screw, it's a black button on the side of the
IAC.

On the IAC it is said "Do not turn the button CCW"

> Well,
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> >
> > DO NOT adjust that stop screw!
Spark - 12 Jan 2005 23:09 GMT
You should'nt touch anything, unless you're ready for a headache...

If the engine is hard to start, but runs relatively well once started, try
to start it while pressing a little bit on the gas (just barely), if it
starts fine, remove the IAC and clean it with throttle body cleaner... if it
doesn't help...well replace the IAC

Good luck
> It's not the throttle stop screw, it's a black button on the side of the
> IAC.
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> > >
> > > DO NOT adjust that stop screw!
Martin F. O'Rourke - 13 Jan 2005 04:29 GMT
So much for the little black button.  What is it?  What is it for?  Why
should it not be turned?

>It's not the throttle stop screw, it's a black button on the side of the
>IAC.
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
>
>  
sleepdog@optonline.net - 13 Jan 2005 16:11 GMT
1) Because it won't fix your problem.

2) If you do and your car no longer idles correctly or throws error
codes you will need a tachometer or dvm to try to back to the factory
setting.

The throttle stop setting affects the output signal of the throttle
position sensor, so there is no need to send the computer the wrong
signal from the TPS for the computer can send everything else the wrong
information about the current throttle state.

Matt
Backyard Mechanic - 13 Jan 2005 16:14 GMT
> So much for the little black button.  What is it?  What is it for?  Why
> should it not be turned?

For the same reason as you shouldnt mess with the throttle stop screw.

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- Yes, I'm a crusty old geezer curmudgeon.. deal with it! -

 
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