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Car Forum / Ford / Ford Cars / October 2005

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Water pump replacement, 1991 Ranger V6

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Sharky - 26 Oct 2005 22:59 GMT
I'm curious whether anyone in the group has ever changed a water pump on a
3.0L Ranger and if it is all that difficult of a job.  I just got home from
work and when I got out of the truck, I could smell coolant quite strong.  I
got down and looked underneath and could see something trickling down the
front side of the engine and onto the oil pan, then onto the ground.  It was
fairly dark, so I went inside and grabbed a flashlight, checked it again and
lo and behold it was antifreeze, running from I believe the seep hole on the
waterpump (its too dark to really tell, it may have been coming from around
the gasket, but I doubt it).  With close to 240,000 kms on the engine, and
not knowing whether its been replaced before (doesn't look like it), it
doesn't really suprise me that the water pump is worn out.  Luckily, no
idiot lights came on while I was on the highway, so it looks like it may
have started leaking in the last 10-12 kms on the way home.  I'll have to
check the coolant level after it cools down.

Really all I want to know is how hard of a job it is to change it.  All the
bolts to remove it looked pretty easy to get at with a socket, and there
doesn't seem to be much in the way to remove besides the fan.  Mind you, I
could only see what the flashlight lit up and this is another reason I
wanted to ask before I jumped into it.  I plan on replacing it myself
probably this weekend, or if it isn't that big of a job, an evening this
week in my fathers garage.

Thanks in advance for advice, tips, etc.  BTW, I am not interested in
putting any kind of stop leak product or anything else in my coolant system,
so please don't suggest it.

Sharky
Backyard Mechanic - 26 Oct 2005 23:43 GMT
> BTW, I am not interested in
> putting any kind of stop leak product or anything else in my coolant
> system, so please don't suggest it.

How about Ore-Ida instant taters?  They work GOOOOD!  And any excess that
boils out is ready fer eatin'!
- - - - - - - - - - - - -
Pretty easy, if you've done a couple pumps.  Reverse threads on that fan,
BTW.. assuming it's the shaft/nut type.

Usually shroud and fan have to come out together... probably only two
screws for shroud, sits in clips in the bottom rail.

Oh, Dont take any 'short-cuts' if you wonder if you can wiggle past
something, you usually cant.

> I'm curious whether anyone in the group has ever changed a water pump
> on a 3.0L Ranger and if it is all that difficult of a job.  I just got
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
> Sharky
Sharky - 27 Oct 2005 10:28 GMT
LOL, Backyard, I don't think I'll try the potatoe trick either, but I
suppose it could make for some tasty taters by the time I got to work.  Mind
you around these parts, I've seen people add some pretty silly stuff to
their radiators in wild attempts to repair leaks.  Eggs, pepper, the stop
leak garbage they sell at the Auto Parts store, to name a few.

I've replaced one or two pumps on older vehicles, yes, but not on a Ranger
before.  Going by the Chiltons manual, it seems to be a pretty
straightforward job (I know you guys hate these cheap-a.s books, but its the
only thing, besides the internet, I have to refer to).  The only thing I
wonder about is the specialty tools needed to remove the fan.  It looks like
you can probably use a normal wrench with some type of other tool holding
the pulley to remove it, any idea what size wrench that is?
The other thing I see in the Chiltons manual, but it fails to explain in
detail, is that the water pump is fastened to the timing cover chain.  It
mentions that some of the bolts are used to fasten the pump and timing
cover, I'm just wondering whether only the pump or both have to be removed.
I'm assuming just the pump, but I'd rather know for sure before I tackle it.

I priced the pump up, looks to be fairly cheap, around $50 - $60 Canadian,
so I'll probably replace both the radiator hoses while I'm at it, as well as
flush the cooling system and replace the coolant.

>Oh, Dont take any 'short-cuts' if you wonder if you can wiggle past
> something, you usually cant.

BTW, I'm not sure what you meant by that.  A bit more insight and the parts
and I should be able to tackle it by this weekend hopefully.  Thanks for the
quick reply.

Sharky
lugnut - 27 Oct 2005 13:00 GMT
>LOL, Backyard, I don't think I'll try the potatoe trick either, but I
>suppose it could make for some tasty taters by the time I got to work.  Mind
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>
>Sharky

You can get the fan hub wrench kit from Advance, Autozone,
Pep Boys and such other places for less than $15US.  All are
the same size.  It is a right hand thread.  You don't have
to remove the fan from the hub before you remove the hub
from the pump.  You may even have enough room to slip the
schroud up and back to remove the fan and hub from the pump
w/o removing the radiator.  It is a straight forward swap.
Only the pump comes off.  Make sure you clean the gasket
surface well.  Use antiseize on the bolt threads just in
case you have to do the job again.  Do not try to over
tighten the bolts.  They should be as uniformly tightened as
possible - the alloy housing thing.  You should also replace
the T-stat while you are at it and a new belt won't hurt.
Make sure you check the tensioner closely.  If there is any
question about the bearing, it should be replaced while you
are there since it is much easier and gives peace of mind
over the long haul.

Good luck
Lugnut
Backyard Mechanic - 27 Oct 2005 13:02 GMT
Nah... it is straightforward.

Loosen the fan before you take off the belt. As you commonweal'ers say
"anti-clockwise'  Wedge belt if necessary. rap nut with hammer to
breakloose, if necessary.

And I still use the old formagasket2 spread VERY thin.

Tighten all bolts evenly and not overmuch.

Seriously....no one should ever try to stopleak a weepy pump! When a late
model waterpump leaks, it is GONE.   My aerostar pump bearing (same pump)
let go without ever putting a drop on the driveway.

> LOL, Backyard, I don't think I'll try the potatoe trick either, but I
> suppose it could make for some tasty taters by the time I got to work.
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
>
> Sharky
Sharky - 27 Oct 2005 23:08 GMT
I appreciate the replies and the tips fellas.  I ordered the pump and both
rad. hoses at lunch time, should be in by tommorrow morning.  Everything
should come close to $100, that's one reason I love this truck.  Parts are
super cheap.  I just replaced all the drive belts about 8 months ago, but I
probably will replace the thermostat as well.  I wasn't aware that the belt
tensioner on this engine was problematic, although I have read alot about
the Taurus with the same engine having some problems.  Either way, I will
check it while I have it apart.  I'm gonna give every bolt and fastener a
good spray of PB Blaster and let it soak in before I tear things apart
tommorrow afternoon.

I wouldn't even think twice about putting any kind of stop leak product in
any part of my truck, let alone a home remedy.  I look after my own vehicles
and after 14 years of doing mostly my own repairs, I usually know what works
and what doesn't work.

Hopefully things should go pretty easy and if I have any troubles, I know
where to find you guys.

Sharky
tom - 28 Oct 2005 21:03 GMT
be very careful with the water pump bolts. only one of the over 12 water
pumps I have done on V6 rangers did not snap at least one bolt.
> I appreciate the replies and the tips fellas.  I ordered the pump and both
> rad. hoses at lunch time, should be in by tommorrow morning.  Everything
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> Sharky
Sharky - 29 Oct 2005 02:26 GMT
Well, the water pump is replaced and the truck is up and running again.  It
took me about 5 hours, but I was taking my time.  The only thing I didn't
manage to replace was the thermostat because the bolts were frozen.  Scared
that they might snap off, I soaked them in penetrating fluid and I'll give
it another go in the morning.

As far as the pump itself, everything went well, except I had to pull the
pump, fan and shroud out all as one unit because I couldn't get the fan off
the pump.  The "specialty tools" I ended up using were a 12" cresent wrench
and a large monkey wrench to hold the end of the shaft, LOL.  That bugger
was really on there, but once it came off, the reassembly went smooth.  No
broken bolts, no leaks in the end, truck runs fine again, so all in all, it
was a pretty easy repair.

BTW, when I had the belt off the tensioner, I took a good look at it.
Everything looked ok as far as the bearing and there didn't seem to be any
play.  Maybe I'll grease it just to be safe when I retry that thermostat
tommorrow.

Thanks again for all the help and tips, I appreciate it.
Sharky
Backyard Mechanic - 29 Oct 2005 17:25 GMT
>  except I had to pull the
> pump, fan and shroud out all as one unit because I couldn't get the
> fan off the pump.  

Bet you were afraid to whack it good with hammer like I suggested!

Thimk!
;)
Sharky - 30 Oct 2005 03:46 GMT
To be honest, the space was so small, I was scared of missing and breaking
off one of the blades on the plastic fan.  But yeah, if I could have got at
it with a hammer, I would have whacked it a few times.  I seriously doubt it
would have come off without the monkey wrench anyhow.  It took my father to
hold the monkey wrench while I broke it free, all the while the pump was
held in a vise.  And I'm not a small guy either, I've got some strength in
my arms for sure.

Sharky
 
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