Jon G., it would do you a great benefit if you pay attention to my past,
current, and future posts on matters of automotive technology.

Using formal knowledge coupled with practical experience, I have defeated
the industrio-Detroit complex.  They want you to follow their service
procedures which have been developed with the intent to support million
dollar dealerships.  Typically, the factory service manual specifies ten
thousand dollars in special tools and perhaps a hundred thousand in capital
shop equipment.  Not to mention thousands in ordinary Snap-Ons and Protos.

My methods seldom require more than an insulated screwdriver and 18 gauge
zip (extension cord) with a Mueller on each end.  My tool box is mostly
packed with Taiwanese sockets (some bought at Big Lots)and an old rusty
Cresent to round out the assortment.  

Learn how to strip wires with a steak knife.  Learn how to crimp Radio
Shack connectors with a Vise-Grip.  Above all, learn ball peen techniques
in case you don't have a Vise-Grip.  Forget all the fancy stuff.

Cars today can be repaired successfully using 1918 methods.  Nothing
changed in 86 years.

In dealing with your V.R. problem, all you needed to do to test that
alternator was a jumper.  You bypass the regulator by jumping the output to
field.  Bring the engine up to fast idle and observe the headlamps. If you
see "flaring", the alternator is good and the regulator is bad.  If there
is no change in headlamp brightness, the alternator is bad.  Simple.

Nomen (master mechanic - don't call me a tech, for Pete's sake)