1999 GMC suburban Starting problem

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Ohio Chem - 05 Nov 2005 19:07 GMT

I've got some sort of electrical problem. My car won't start. I first
thought it was a starter, so i replace the starter. It only worked for
a few days. I had a mechanic look at it and he told us that we just
need to keep a 5/16 wrench in the truck because the dual battery cables
just have a tendency to come loose. I tightened them when it wouldn't
start. Sometimes I would also have to turn the cables a bit. In the
meantime my problem seemed to get worse. I thought it was due to
moving my battery cables back and forth. I thought when I moved the
cables the teeth on the battery cables that are meant to ensure a good
contact were just damaging the connecting terminal. I bought a
multimeter to test this theory. It seemed plausible. But before I
could get them replaced my car completely died. (It won't start no
matter what you do). I replaced the cable terminals again using a
multimeter to check the connections. NOTHING. Nothing happens when I
try to jump start it either. I tried testing the resistance, and
voltage in all of my battery cables. They appear good to a novice
mechanic. But I still only get a click when I turn the ignition. Any
advice or information would be great.

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HLS@nospam.nix - 05 Nov 2005 20:25 GMT

Sometimes the internal connections on GMC battery cables get
really badly corroded and you will have problems. You can
remove the insulator and clean them, but you may have to
eventually replace them if this is a problem.

Have your battery tested while you are at it. Sometimes
batteries fail internally, and you may have to replace it.

Dont just replace and hope you hit the right part. Test
the system.

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Al Bundy - 05 Nov 2005 23:18 GMT

> I've got some sort of electrical problem. My car won't start. I first
> thought it was a starter, so i replace the starter. It only worked for
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> mechanic. But I still only get a click when I turn the ignition. Any
> advice or information would be great.

Make sure the connection at the other end of the cable is good too.
Your multimeter won't tell you directly whether you have a good
connection. You could have a connection that seems good to the meter
and powers the radio, but won't carry the amps for starting. What is
the voltage reading when you hit the starter? It should drop a little,
but not a lot.

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Ohio Chem - 07 Nov 2005 16:04 GMT

A friend of mine suggested that I test the ignition switch in the
collumn. He said just because I had voltage doesn't mean I have
current olms law. Current = voltage/resistance. I bypassed the switch
and my car started just fine. So I think that I just had problems with
the ignition switch. while replacing the switch I accidantally broke
the plastic pin that turns the ignition switch. Now I'm going to have
to take apart the stearing column to get to the piece I broke.

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Franko - 08 Nov 2005 04:34 GMT

If you are using side post batteries:

Obtain four each: 1"x3/8" coarse thread bolt and nut.
Cut the rubber insulators off the battery side cables to expose
the flat copper connectors.
Thoroughly wire brush both sides of the flat copper connector.
Thread a nut all the way onto the bolt.
Insert bolt with nut through flat copper connector.
Screw bolt with nut and connector onto battery side terminal until
finger tight.
Use one wrench to hold the bolt head still.
Use another wrench to turn the nut so that it clamps the connector
to the battery terminal.
Spray with (red) battery terminal spray.

If you want to use a split washer between the nut and flat copper
connector, you will have to use a 1-1/4"x3/8" bolt.

Repeat for the other terminal(s). Start with both positive
terminals. Connect the negative terminals last. Them cables ain't
going to come loose.

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