I think every single car manual I've seen has had different intervals for
the fuel filter.

I just did the one on my car because I know it hadn't been done before, and
it hit 97Kmi, so before I START to have problems, I figured I'd just reset
the timer. Interval time you would think should be set by miles, since more
miles, the more fuel has been cycled through it.

Air filters they say every year, and out in AZ its pretty dusty so that
seems about right. Cleaning the throttle body is easy, just get a can and
DIY, otherwise the dealership charges $40 or something rediculous. Probably
would be a good idea to check the air filter every oil change for
abnormalities, and then inspect the throttle body while your taking stuff
apart under the hood.

Filters and cleaning fluid is cheap, rebuilding broken stuff isn't, and alot
of newer cars tend to have a pretty comprehensive maintenence schedule in
the book.

Even if you do run these great plugs whats the point?  The plugs may not
be bad, but they may still need to be inspected and possibly cleaned.
Which means they have to come out anyway.

Depends on the shop and what they charge.

Plugs - Obvious item - Worn plugs mean that timing alters as the spark
gap increases, deposits on the plugs reduce thermal transfer of heat and
this erodes the plug further.

Wires - Again obvious item, wires do wear, the external insulation
breaks down and allows energy to escape (less energy to fire the worn
plugs) as well as internal breakage of the conductors and
connector/conductor areas.

Fuel filter - Blocked flow through a bad filter can cause the engine to
run lean as well as cause undue wear on the pump. Lean fuel mix causes
less power.

Air filter - Without clean air the engine doesn't like to run for a long
period without increased wear to the rings/ cylinders/ valves/ bearings.
Since an engine is air powered (air is what really makes an engine
provide power, without it an internal combustion engine will not
function)

Oil Filter - new oil - Oil filter because they are cheap compared to
major engine work. New oil for a similar reason, fresh oil lubes better,
reducing wear and allowing the engine to work easier providing more
power.

Injector cleaning - Falls under efficiency of the engine. poor injector
pattern makes an engine produce less power and can result in the
computer showing a misfire and cutting performance as a  result.

Coolant flush/refill - Engines produce HEAT, just a fact of combustion,
that heat causes many problems if not carried away from areas like the
heads and around the cylinders. Also older coolant does not transfer
heat as well and can become corrosive if left in the engine. End result,
dead engine.

Scanner check - Makes sure that the sensors that are there are all
working and sending the correct info back. Worn O2 sensors will provide
incorrect data to the computer causing increased fuel economy and loss
of power, Bad temp senders can cause the computer to think the engine
isn't warm when it is and cause it to burn more fuel when it shouldn't.
Same thing with many of the other sensors.

Fuel pressure - Bad pump or blocked line/filter or will cause the engine
to run lean and result in damage. It can also leave you stranded.

So which ones are not considered to be a tune up item? Tune ups were and
are all items intended to improve the performance and reliability of the
vehicle. I have done the entire list on a vehicle in less than an hour.
How?

Pull vehicle into shop. Open hood, connect up FP tester to the port.
Check fuel pressure. If within spec OK fuel filter change can only raise
it some, Leave tester connected to drain off pressure in system. Connect
up coolant flush unit and start it. While it runs change out
plugs/wires/cap/rotor. Change out air filter. Change coolant flush to
fresh water and reverse flow. Lift vehicle up. Pull drain plug and allow
oil to drain. While it drains change out fuel filter and grease fittings
where available. Change oil filter and reinstall drain plug with new
seal washer. Lower vehicle and shut down coolant flush, Fill with
correct coolant mix and recharge system. Disconnect coolant flush unit.
Start engine and check oil pressure and for any leaks in fuel filter/oil
filter. Remove rad. cap and make sure coolant is full (air gets trapped
in the system sometimes so you need to burp it), If required add sealant
pellets or more coolant, test cap and replace if it fails. Reinstall if
OK. Connect up injector cleaner and allow it to cycle through. Remove it
and connect FP tester and scanner. Watch for any abnormal readings. If
OK take vehicle out for short test drive through car wash and park it
where customer can find it easily, attach oil change reminder sticker.
Fill out paperwork listing parts (oil filter, oil (amount, weight, brand
and type), air filter, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, coolant (amount and
type), fuel filter, injector cleaner) any misc.  parts that were needed
(like the blown bulb in the marker light or tail light) . Note any items
of concern IE: worn brakes, rusted brake/fuel lines, driveline problems,
worn steering parts, whatever, to be brought to the attention of the
owner for their consideration. Hang keys on rack and start on the next
one. Repeat as needed.

Steve W.

I'm inclined to agree.

An oil/filter change, and a coolant flush
wouldn't be part of a tune-up.

PLUGS ??  My BUICK manual sez; "Change at 75K"

BTW;  How do you "clean injectors" ???   Can of STP in the fuel tank ?

<rj>

You have been lucky. I get to see a lot of vehicles that the plugs are
rusted and stuck in the heads. And unless they are platinum plugs they
wear just like they always have. The newer gasoline additives do keep
the plugs cleaner.
If you are going several years on an air filter you are not doing the
engine any favors.
You do not have to pull injectors to clean them. Unless the engine is
having a problem that will require you to check the pattern just a good
solvent cleaning will do wonders for many of them.
Nothing wrong with Dex as long as you pay attention to it.
Show me a car that shows you O2 sensor voltages, fuel trim, timing, TPS
response, misfire info, MAF / MAP data on the dash. Never seen one. The
scanner WILL show that and allow you to see if there is a problem
starting.
True, GM pumps fail (so do everyone else's) however the pressure check
can tell you if the pump is starting to go or if there is a problem with
the filter, regulator.
As far as trusting a light to tell me when something is wrong, NOPE.
Seen it show problems when there are none, and not show problems when
the vehicle was running like crap.