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Car Forum / GMC Cars / June 2006Security Light questions about 1995 Buick Regal
Okay, the car will not crank. I just bought it used yesterday. Probably take it to a mechanic after the weekend, it's Saturday right now. I suspect it's the passkey or vats as the key looks like it's been around the block a few times Okay my questions (so I can figure out if that's the problem Is it normal for the security light come ti on when you turn the key? I turn the key in the "on" position (keeping in mind it doesnt crank)and the security light is still on but goes off after a few second Also the battery light is on and the service engine light is on while the switch is turned. Is all of that indicative of a passkey issue? I got the car to crank over and start one time after the problem started and none of the dash lights where on while it was running and it ran fine. I'm pretty sure it's a passkey issue but the thing that throws me is that while the switch is turned on the security light goes on after a few seconds. Like I said previously, I just got the car so I dont know if its normal for the security light to come on for a few seconds when you stick the key in. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks -- kdj997 > Okay, the car will not crank. I just bought it used yesterday. Probably > take it to a mechanic after the weekend, it's Saturday right now. I > suspect it's the passkey or vats as the key looks like it's been around > the block a few times. The key for my last Bonnie looked like it had spent most of it's time under a large truck, but it always worked. And that car had almost 300,000KM's on it. > Okay my questions (so I can figure out if that's the problem) > > Is it normal for the security light come ti on when you turn the key? I > turn the key in the "on" position (keeping in mind it doesnt crank)and the > security light is still on but goes off after a few second. If memory serves, the Security light does come on when I start up my '96 Bonnie, but goes off after a few seconds. Just telling me that the system is working. > Also the battery light is on and the service engine light is on while the > switch is turned. Is all of that indicative of a passkey issue? I got the > car to crank over and start one time after the problem started and none of > the dash lights where on while it was running and it ran fine. When you turn the key from OFF to ON (not START) the Service Engine Soon light and battery lights come on, yup. They will go off (if everything checks out with the computer) once the car is running. > I'm pretty sure it's a passkey issue but the thing that throws me is that > while the switch is turned on the security light goes on after a few > seconds. Like I said previously, I just got the car so I dont know if its > normal for the security light to come on for a few seconds when you stick > the key in. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks. What about checking with another key? Or did you get the shaft and only get one key, like I always did? No one I have bought a car with a PassKey key has ever had 2 set's. They always loose one set, and don't want to pay the dealer $75 bucks for a new one. And neither do I lol "80 Knight" <80_knightNOSPAM@rogers.com> wrote in message > What about checking with another key? Or did you get the shaft and only get > one key, like I always did? No one I have bought a car with a PassKey key > has ever had 2 set's. They always loose one set, and don't want to pay the > dealer $75 bucks for a new one. And neither do I lol You dont have to pay the dealer $75 for a key.. Go to a competent locksmith shop, and they have the blanks, etc. Last one I had cut cost me $20 and change. > "80 Knight" <80_knightNOSPAM@rogers.com> wrote in message >> What about checking with another key? Or did you get the shaft and only [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > shop, > and they have the blanks, etc. Last one I had cut cost me $20 and change. My car has the PassKey system on it. Around here (Ontario, Canada), I don't know anywhere to get one of those keys except from a dealer. > > "80 Knight" <80_knightNOSPAM@rogers.com> wrote in message > >> What about checking with another key? Or did you get the shaft and only [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > My car has the PassKey system on it. Around here (Ontario, Canada), I don't > know anywhere to get one of those keys except from a dealer. Here in Texas, it is easy. BUT, often the problem is in the passkey reader, not in the key itself. I just recently had my reader circuitry by-passed on my 90 Reatta. I didnt want to mess with it enough to have the reader replaced, etc. It is a fairly simple task, and I, for one, am glad to be 'shed of' this troublesome system. >> > "80 Knight" <80_knightNOSPAM@rogers.com> wrote in message >> >> What about checking with another key? Or did you get the shaft and [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > not in > the key itself. Very true. I have heard many horror stories of one little wire breaking inside the lock cylinder, and the car not starting. > I just recently had my reader circuitry by-passed on my 90 Reatta. I > didnt [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > task, and > I, for one, am glad to be 'shed of' this troublesome system. With my '96 Bonnie, I have to figure out what resistance the chip in my key is, and place a resistor inside the steering Colum, if memory serves. The PassKey seems like a good idea, but it's one of those things that are only good at the time.. Sure, when our cars were brand new it was great having a theft deterrent on them, but as they get on in the years, it becomes a hassle for us when they stop working. It is normal for the Battery and MIL lights to light when the ignition switch is in "Run" or "Start" if the engine is not running. If you are having an intermittent no crank with the "Security" light ON, I'd suspect a VATS / Passkey issue. Try this before replacing the key: clean the contact points on the resistor pellet with some very light steel wool (just one or two really light passes), then clean the resistor contacts with alcohol. Then give the key a try. Next step would be a new key, next would be a new ignition cylinder (or bypassing the VATS with a resistor). Most decent locksmiths can duplicate a VATS key - the problem is that most do NOT have a key reader so you need to know what VATS key code (1~15) the key is. If you have access to a DVM, measure the resistance of the pellet and post it to the news group - I'll look up the code for you (for example, my '94 Buick Regal has a resistor of 525 Ohms, which is a VATS Key Code #2). Around here (northern CA) a VATS key will run $25.00 - yeh, that's obscene but what can you do?. Regards, Bill Bowen Sacramento, CA >Okay, the car will not crank. I just bought it used yesterday. Probably take it to a mechanic after the weekend, it's Saturday right now. I suspect it's the passkey or vats as the key looks like it's been around the block a few times. > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >I'm pretty sure it's a passkey issue but the thing that throws me is that while the switch is turned on the security light goes on after a few seconds. Like I said previously, I just got the car so I dont know if its normal for the security light to come on for a few seconds when you stick the key in. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks. Thanks for your insight everyone. Yeah, it only had 1 key. Now I'm confused because the security light comes on and goes off as normal, yet the friggin thing won't start lol. I'm gonna assume it may be starter or the switch itself because the first thing I did was put the battery on a charger and that wasn't it. Again, thanks everyone -- kdj997 It is normal for the Battery and MIL lights to light when the ignitio switch is in "Run" or "Start" if the engine is not running. If yo are having an intermittent no crank with the "Security" light ON, I' suspect a VATS / Passkey issue Try this before replacing the key: clean the contact points on th resistor pellet with some very light steel wool (just one or tw really light passes), then clean the resistor contacts with alcohol Then give the key a try. Next step would be a new key, next would be new ignition cylinder (or bypassing the VATS with a resistor) Most decent locksmiths can duplicate a VATS key - the problem is tha most do NOT have a key reader so you need to know what VATS key cod (1~15) the key is. If you have access to a DVM, measure the resistanc of the pellet and post it to the news group - I'll look up the cod for you (for example, my '94 Buick Regal has a resistor of 525 Ohms which is a VATS Key Code #2). Around here (northern CA) a VATS ke will run $25.00 - yeh, that's obscene but what can you do? Regards Bill Bowe Sacramento, C >Okay, the car will not crank. I just bought it used yesterday. Probably take it to a mechanic after the weekend, it's Saturday right now. I suspect it's the passkey or vats as the key looks like it's been around the block a few times >Okay my questions (so I can figure out if that's the problem >Is it normal for the security light come ti on when you turn the key? I turn the key in the "on" position (keeping in mind it doesnt crank)and the security light is still on but goes off after a few second >Also the battery light is on and the service engine light is on while the switch is turned. Is all of that indicative of a passkey issue? I got the car to crank over and start one time after the problem started and none of the dash lights where on while it was running and it ran fine >I'm pretty sure it's a passkey issue but the thing that throws me is that while the switch is turned on the security light goes on after a few seconds. Like I said previously, I just got the car so I dont know if its normal for the security light to come on for a few seconds when you stick the key in. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks Yeah, 25 bucks for a key is pushing it but it's better than what GM charges lol. I don't think it's a VATS issue because the security light goes off as normal so I'm just gonna tow it back to the guy I bought it from. He's a mechanic and probably will take care of anything at no charge -- kdj997 |
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