CV Change update

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Tim - 20 Jun 2006 01:12 GMT

1998 Buick LaSabre

I got the wheel bearing off and will need to replace it. It came apart and
the back side is still on the car.

I did not know I had to take the steering knuckle off to get the CV out and
will work on that tomorrow. My concern is when I take the knuckle off will I
need to compress the strut?

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Shep - 20 Jun 2006 01:14 GMT

You don't need to remove the knuckle, pop the lower ball joint out, you
should be able to move the strut/knuckle far enough over to clear the axle,
I assume it is out of the bearing at this point.

> 1998 Buick LaSabre
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> and will work on that tomorrow. My concern is when I take the knuckle off
> will I need to compress the strut?

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Tim - 20 Jun 2006 03:13 GMT

It is still in one piece. If I do take the lower part of the joint apart I
still will need room to replace it.

> You don't need to remove the knuckle, pop the lower ball joint out, you
> should be able to move the strut/knuckle far enough over to clear the
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
> =----

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shiden_kai - 20 Jun 2006 04:10 GMT

> It is still in one piece. If I do take the lower part of the joint
> apart I still will need room to replace it.

Take the whole axle right out and work on it at a bench.
Don't bother trying to replace the c/v joint with the axle
still attached....too much work...not enough space.

Ian

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Tim - 20 Jun 2006 05:39 GMT

I am replacing the entire axle.

>> It is still in one piece. If I do take the lower part of the joint
>> apart I still will need room to replace it.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Ian

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Shep - 20 Jun 2006 04:04 GMT

Tim all I can tell is I've managed to do it like, this you may have to
remove the tie rod end also to get enough movement.

> 1998 Buick LaSabre
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> and will work on that tomorrow. My concern is when I take the knuckle off
> will I need to compress the strut?

Reply to this Message

Tim - 20 Jun 2006 04:13 GMT

I have no idea what to do. Having never replace a ball joint, is it
something I can take apart then reinstall?

I looked at a repair book at Auto Zone and it said to remove the bolts where
the knuckle is attached to the strut mounts. Again I worry if I will need to
compress the strut or will it stay in place.

I feel lost like an Easter egg on what to do.

> Tim all I can tell is I've managed to do it like, this you may have to
> remove the tie rod end also to get enough movement.
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
> =----

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Steve W. - 20 Jun 2006 04:41 GMT

Tim,
OK your replacing the hub and the outer CV joint, correct?
As I read it you have the hub off and now want to remove the outer CV?
First remove the lower ball joint. Don't touch the strut. To get more
clearance you can turn the steering wheel either left or right to push
the knuckle farther out once the ball joint is unhooked. Once you have
it this far you can just push the axle in to collapse the inner and
outer joints as much as possible. Then the axle will come out of the
knuckle and you can then reach in and grab the INNER axle joint and give
it a quick yank to pull it out of the transaxle.

DO NOT JUST GRAB THE AXLE AND YANK, That will pull both joints apart and
you'll end up with a mess.

You MAY need to put a small pry bar between the joint and the case to
pop it free. Then instead of replacing the outer joint just buy a
rebuilt axle that has the inner and outer joint already replaced and
relubed. Install the "new" axle in the reverse of the way you removed
it. Much easier and quicker than messing around replacing the individual
pieces. Usually cheaper as well.

Signature

Steve W.

> I have no idea what to do. Having never replace a ball joint, is it
> something I can take apart then reinstall?
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> > ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
> > =----

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Tim - 20 Jun 2006 05:47 GMT

You are right on about an axle saving money over rebuilding a joint. I will
give the lower ball joint a try tomorrow. I seen in the book it said to pull
out the old one and if needed use the pry bar.

Thanks to everyone for your help with the mess I have going on. I hope I can
write tomorrow I DID IT.

> Tim,
> OK your replacing the hub and the outer CV joint, correct?
[quoted text clipped - 59 lines]
> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
> =----

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shiden_kai - 21 Jun 2006 23:54 GMT

> You are right on about an axle saving money over rebuilding a joint.
> I will give the lower ball joint a try tomorrow. I seen in the book
> it said to pull out the old one and if needed use the pry bar.

Look, it's all fairly simple. You remove the cotter pin that retains
the ball stud nut, remove the ball stud nut, give the spindle (part that
the ball stud goes thru) a couple of wacks with a ball peen hammer
and then use a large pry bar to force the lower control arm down.
Once you have the ball stud out of the spindle (you do not have to
physically remove the ball joint, it stays in the lower control arm), then
you can move the spindle/strut assembly enough to be able to get the
axle out of the wheel bearing hub. In order to make it a little bit easier,
if you are working on the left side, turn the steering all the way to the
right, if the right side, all the way to left.

Ian

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Tim - 22 Jun 2006 00:37 GMT

A few years ago it could of been easy however I have had two unsugessfull
surgery's on my right rotator cuff and have continued pain, with weakness,
and my left side is also torn and will have surgery on it in September. I
can manage the wheel bearing hub change but the axle was a bit too much for
me.

Thanks any ways.

>> You are right on about an axle saving money over rebuilding a joint.
>> I will give the lower ball joint a try tomorrow. I seen in the book
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Ian

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Mike Marlow - 22 Jun 2006 01:25 GMT

> > You are right on about an axle saving money over rebuilding a joint.
> > I will give the lower ball joint a try tomorrow. I seen in the book
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> Ian

Ian's right, but I always leave the nut just started a turn or two on the
stud when I whack it with a hammer. You don't want to munge the starter
threads.

Signature

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

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HLS@nospam.nix - 24 Jun 2006 14:23 GMT

"Mike Marlow" <mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net> wrote in message
news:4effd$4499e484$471fba06

> Ian's right, but I always leave the nut just started a turn or two on the
> stud when I whack it with a hammer. You don't want to munge the starter
> threads.

This would be good to emphasize..You don't hammer on the nut or on the
balljoint stud. You whach the side of the spindle through which the stud
passes.

It is really tempting to pound on the stud itself, but of about three things
that can
happen, two are not nice.

If you are going to replace the balljoint anyway, a separator tool can
usually be rented
or borrowed.

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Tim - 20 Jun 2006 21:01 GMT

I gave up the axle won.

> 1998 Buick LaSabre
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> and will work on that tomorrow. My concern is when I take the knuckle off
> will I need to compress the strut?

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