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Car Forum / GMC Cars / August 2006

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Impala A/C and heat help

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Matthew.S.Adler@gmail.com - 23 Jul 2006 22:51 GMT
I have a 2001 Impala.  The a/c/heat has 6 positions, however the air
and heat will not blow until it is in the 3rd position.  This didn't
used to happen and I cannot recall when it started.

Any ideas on what I can do to resolve this problem?

Thank you in advance!
Shep - 23 Jul 2006 23:04 GMT
Needs the blower resistor/relay mounted on the blower case up behind the
glove box area under dash.
>I have a 2001 Impala.  The a/c/heat has 6 positions, however the air
> and heat will not blow until it is in the 3rd position.  This didn't
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Thank you in advance!
Matt - 24 Jul 2006 01:22 GMT
Thank you for the answer.  I am a bit confused as to what you are
telling me to do.  Do I need to replace the blower restitor/relay, do I
repair the current blower resistor/relay?
How do I access the resistor/relay?

Thank you!

> Needs the blower resistor/relay mounted on the blower case up behind the
> glove box area under dash.
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
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Mike Marlow - 24 Jul 2006 11:25 GMT
> Thank you for the answer.  I am a bit confused as to what you are
> telling me to do.  Do I need to replace the blower restitor/relay, do I
> repair the current blower resistor/relay?
> How do I access the resistor/relay?

Matt - what Shep is talking about is a resistor pack that mounts up into the
plenum in the area of the passenger's foot well.  It's up by the blower
motor.  It's not a relay.    If you get on your back on the floor, or even
just get down there and crank your neck back so you can see the blower
motor, you will see a wire going up (seemingly) into the plenum close to the
firewall side of the plenum.  You can unplug this wire harness and the
resistor pack will then come out with the removal of three screws.  One of
those screws is a tight fit with the footwell/firewall and can be the cause
of some imaginative new words in your vocabulary.  Remove the screws and the
resistor pack will come right out.

Don't even try to repair it.  GM now sells a beefier resistor pack that
looks like it should last considerably longer than the originals.  Much
stouter heat dissipation capabilities.  Shove the new one up in there and
screw it home.  Plug it in and off you go.  The whole job should take less
than 30 minutes.  If you choose, you can make access a little easier by
removing the blower motor first.  Three obvious screws and it drops right
down.  Unplug it and set it aside.

Signature

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

Paradox - 25 Jul 2006 04:18 GMT
I'm surprised GM hasnt switched over to a Electronic speed controller for
the blower fan yet...

> > Thank you for the answer.  I am a bit confused as to what you are
> > telling me to do.  Do I need to replace the blower restitor/relay, do I
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> removing the blower motor first.  Three obvious screws and it drops right
> down.  Unplug it and set it aside.
Matt - 19 Aug 2006 14:04 GMT
Well,

I purchased a new blower resister but I'm having a heck of a time
removing the panel that provides access to the equipment above the
passenger's feet.  There appears to be a black plastic fastener that I
can't take off that would allow me to remove the panel.

Am I doing the right thing to install my new blower resistor?

How do I remove this panel to get to the blower?
(Any pictures would be much appreciated!)

Thank you,

> > Thank you for the answer.  I am a bit confused as to what you are
> > telling me to do.  Do I need to replace the blower restitor/relay, do I
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> removing the blower motor first.  Three obvious screws and it drops right
> down.  Unplug it and set it aside.
Mike Marlow - 19 Aug 2006 14:12 GMT
> Well,
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> How do I remove this panel to get to the blower?
> (Any pictures would be much appreciated!)

Use a set of side cutters Matt.  They will slip under the head of the
fastener.  Don't cut through it, but pry the fastener out.  Rock the side
cutters so as to work the fasterner out.  Rotate the cutters so a full 90
degrees or so.  Get another grip further down and do it again.  You'll see
that it is a ribbed fastener once you get one out - a simple friction fit.
You'll distort the fastner a little bit, but it will be fully reuseable when
you go to put it back together.  If you do happen to cut through it or
damage it badly it's no big deal.  They are available at any autobody supply
store and even at some of the HELP shelves at the automotive aftermarket
parts stores like Advance or NAPA.

Signature

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

 
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